iiiiiSI 


III 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 

GIFT  OF 

The  Estate  of 
Prof.  Donald  B.  Lindsley, 
2003 


REPORT 


OF    THE 


Brown-Harvard  Expedition 


TO 


Nachvak,  Labrador 
I  900 


BY 

E.  B.  DELABARRE,  Ph.  D. 


PROVIDENCE,   R     I. 

PRESTON    &    ROUNDS    CO. 

1902. 


BULLETIN  OF  THE 


Geographical  Society 


OF  PHILADELPHIA 


VOL.  Ill  APRIL,  1902  No.  4 

Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard   Expedition  to 
Nachvak,  Labrador,  in  the  year  1900. 


BY 
E.  B.  DELABARRE,  PH.  D., 

Professor  of  Psychology  in  Brown  University. 


Introduction.  —  I.  Outline  of  the  Voyage.  —  II.  Summary  of  the 
Voyage,  and  Meteorological  Conditions. — III.  Overland  from  Hebron 
to  Nachvak.  —  IV.  Nachvak  Bay  and  the  Ascent  of  Mount  Faunce. 
V.  Scenery  of  the  Atlantic  Coast  of  Labrador. — VI.  Life  on  the 
Labrador  Coast. — VII.  Scientific  Results  of  the  Expedition. — VIII.  Re- 
port on  Botany. — IX.  Report  on  Ornithology. — X.  Report  on  Geology. 


INTRODUCTION, 

This  is  the  record  of  an  expedition  of  very  modest  pro- 
portions and  aims.  As  explorers  none  of  the  party  had  had 
previous  experience ;  and  only  two  were  experts  in  the  line  of 
work  they  undertook,  both  of  them  young  in  their  respective 
professions.  These  facts  account  for  much  that  must  neces- 
sarily appear  as  of  a  more  or  less  amateurish  character  in  our 
work  and  report.  The  results  accomplished  in  spite  of  these 
disadvantages,  however,  which  have  largely  exceeded  our 
anticipations,  show  how  large  a  field  for  further  profitable 
research  still  awaits  the  explorer.  Large  sections  of  the  coast 
are  still  without  a  first  crude  charting  of  any  degree  of  ac- 
curacy ;  and  the  entire  coast  is  much  in  need  of  thorough  work 
of  this  kind.     Great  ranges  of  the  loftiest  mountains  on  our 

65 


66  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

Atlantic  seaboard  offer  a  tempting  and  untrodden  ground  for 
topographical  and  geological  investigation.  The  botanist, 
the  zoologist,  and  doubtless  the  scientific  worker  in  many 
other  lines,  may  confidently  expect  many  important  discov- 
eries to  reward  his  labors. 

Some  of  our  results  have  already  been  published.  Mr. 
Bigelow's  report  on  Ornithology  appears  in  Auk,  1902,  Vol. 
XXVII,  pp.  24-31 ;  and  Dr.  Daly's  account  of  the  geology  of 
the  coast  in  the  Bulletin  of  the  Museum  of  Comparative  Zoology 
at  Han'ard  College,  igo2,  Vol.  XXXVIII,  pp.  205-270.  Each 
of  them  has  contributed  a  section  to  the  present  report, 
briefly  summarizing  his  results.  Dr.  Daly's  report  is  accom- 
panied by  a  number  of  illustrations,  for  the  most  part  of  a 
more  purely  geological  interest  than  those  given  herewith. 
It  embodies  by  far  the  most  important  results  of  our  expe- 
dition; and  it  emphasizes  at  greater  length  than  I  have  done 
the  need  of  further  exploration. 

Local  names  and  their  spelling,  as  given  in  this  report, 
cannot  in  all  cases  be  taken  as  final  and  authoritative.  There 
is  need  of  revision  in  this  whole  matter,  and  the  final  solution 
must  be  left  to  the  future.  This  is  true  particularly  of  the 
names  of  the  less  prominent  rivers,  mountains,  and  localities 
in  the  more  northerly  parts  of  the  country.  It  is  not  unnatural 
that  a  considerable  variety  in  usage  should  have  arisen. 
Some  names  are  due  to  the  Newfoundland  fishermen,  of  Eng- 
lish descent.  Some  were  given  by  German  missionaries,  and 
these  have  been  Anglicized  to  some  extent.  A  large  propor- 
tion are  of  Eskimo  origin,  and  their  orthographic  rendition  is 
due  partially  to  English  sources,  more  largely  to  the  German 
missionaries,  whose  spellings  in  some  cases  have  been  vari- 
ously and  doubtfully  modified  to  suit  the  demands  of  English 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  67 

phonetics.  Our  authorities  for  the  names  were  the  various 
charts,  the  Nezvfoundland  and  Labrador  Pilot,  Mr.  George 
Ford,  of  Nachvak,  and  Rev.  Wolf  Stecker,  of  Ramah.  Dr. 
Daly,  in  his  report,  has  used  the  versions  of  the  latter,  whom 
he  regards  as  "the  only  one  I  have  come  across  who  can  give 
authoritative  opinions  on  Eskimo."  I  should  have  preferred 
to  have  used  the  same  spellings  and  forms  in  all  cases  as  Dr. 
Daly ;  but  unfortunately  his  report  has  come  to  me  too  late 
to  make  the  necessary  changes  in  my  text,  and  I  was  previ- 
ously unaware  of  the  names  as  given  by  Stecker.  The  differ- 
ences are  not  numerous,  and  apply  almost  exclusively  to  the 
region  about  Nachvak,  for  which  I  have  used  names  as  given 
by  Mr.  Ford.  I  call  attention  in  footnotes  to  the  most  im- 
portant of  the  variations. 

To  Professor  Packard  and  President  Faunce,  of  Brown 
University,  and  President  Eliot,  of  Harvard,  I  apologize  for 
the  use  of  their  names  as  designations  of  mountains.  The 
exaggerations  of  certain  unauthorized  newspaper  accounts 
soon  after  our  return  may  have  given  them  unpleasant  asso- 
ciations, but  I  trust  that  these  may  have  long  since  disap- 
peared. Dr.  Daly,  in  his  map  of  Nachvak  Bay,  reproduced 
herewith,  shows  two  of  these  mountains,  but  does  not  use 
their  names ;  and  he  writes  me  that  "the  mountains  are  really 
not  sufficiently  prominent  even  in  Labrador  to  merit  those 
particular  names."  It  is  true  that  there  are  loftier  summits  in 
Labrador,  and  that  had  we  found  and  climbed  them  we  should 
have  reserved  these  names  for  the  worthiest  of  them.  But 
they  were  the  highest  unnamed  peaks  with  which  we  came 
into  intimate  contact;  as  will  be  seen  from  my  frequent  de- 
scriptive and  botanical  references  to  them,  it  was  essential 
to  give  them  some  distinctive  label ;  and  we  hope  that  the 


68  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

men  whom  we,  as  college  students  and  professors,  honor  and 
esteem  most  highly,  will  not  resent  the  liberty  we  have  taken 
in  a  spirit  of  sincerest  admiration  and  respect. 

I  gladly  express  my  indebtedness  to  the  many  who  have 
been  of  aid  to  me  in  connection  with  the  preparation  and 
material  of  this  report.  Mr.  Henry  G.  Bryant  very  kindly 
allows  me  to  reproduce  his  map  of  Labrador.  The  gener- 
osity of  Dr.  Daly  and  of  the  Museum  of  Comparative 
Zoology  at  Harvard  College  make  it  possible  to  present 
Daly's  Map  of  Nachvak  Bay.  To  Dr.  Daly  and  Mr.  Adams 
I  owe  the  privilege  of  including  some  of  their  photographs 
with  my  own ;  and  to  Dr.  Grenfell  that  of  making  use  of  the 
photograph  given  as  frontispiece.  To  the  publishers  of 
Outing  I  am  indebted  for  the  cuts  showing  the  Eskimos  at 
Pangnertok,  and  the  party  on  the  overland  trip  from 
Hebron  to  Nachvak.  The  editors  of  the  Providence  Journal 
and  of  the  Brunonian  permit  me  to  use  again  in  two  of 
my  sections  material  which  was  contributed  originally  to 
their  publications.  To  Professor  Bailey  and  Mr.  Collins  I 
cannot  suf^ciently  express  my  gratitude  for  their  aid  in  the 
identification  of  botanical  specimens.  Without  the  large 
amount  of  time  and  energy  they  have  willingly  devoted  to 
this  task,  my  own  work  on  the  expedition  would  have  been 
valueless.  To  a  large  degree,  also,  I  am  under  obligation  to 
Professor  Cummings,  Professor  Farlow,  Professor  Packard, 
Professor  Robinson,  and  Professor  Rowlee  for  similar 
services. 

Finally,  and  not  the  least  heartily,  I  express  my  grateful 
appreciation  to  the  Geographical  Society  of  Philadelphia  for 
its  courtesy  in  permitting  the  use  of  its  pages  for  my  report ; 
and  to  its  Secretary,  Mr.  Greene,  for  his  invaluable  help  and 
advice  in  the  work  of  publication. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  69 


OUTLINE   OF  THE  VOYAGE. 

The  coast  of  Labrador  is  distant  from  us  only  about  a 
week's  journey,  and  in  its  southern  parts  is  easily  accessible 
by  aid  of  regularly  running  steamers.  Its  brief  summers 
possess  the  attractiveness  of  our  own  autumnal  season.  Its 
scenery  is  magnificent,  full  of  beauty  and  grandeur,  distin- 
guished by  including  the  highest  mountains  on  the  entire 
Atlantic  side  of  America,  and  in  other  ways  also  rivaHng  that 
of  many  more  frequently  visited  regions.  Its  reputation  as 
a  cold,  forbidding,  desolate,  and  dangerous  country  is  unjust. 
Though  forests  are  lacking  near  the  coast,  yet  it  has  the 
charm  of  an  abundant  vegetation,  giving  it  color  and  life 
without  concealment  of  the  glory  of  form  belonging  to  its 
rocky  and  lofty  mountains.  It  supports  a  considerable 
population,  both  native  and  white.  It  is  visited  annually  by 
hundreds  of  fishermen  from  Newfoundland,  to  some  of  whom 
it  is  familiar  even  to  its  northern  extreme.  It  has  been  ex- 
plored by  scientists  to  a  considerable  extent,  and  traversed 
by  them  in  various  directions.  Yet,  in  spite  of  these  facts, 
it  remains  comparatively  unknown  to  most  people  and 
attracts  few  visitors ;  and  scientific  expeditions  can  still  add 
much  to  knowledge  concerning  it. 

Huntington  Adams,  an  undergraduate  of  Harvard,  ac- 
companied the  expedition  made  by  Mr.  Taber  in  1899  in 
search  of  Eskimos  for  the  Paris  Exposition  of  1900.  He  re- 
turned full  of  enthusiasm  for  the  beauty  of  the  country  and 
eager  to  return  to  it  for  further  exploration.  He  had  learned 
that  there  was  yet  plentiful  need  of  good  scientific  work 
throughout  the  peninsula.     Much  of  the  coast  is  still  very 


70  Report  of  the  Broivn-H award  Expedition. 

inadequately  charted.  Almost  all  previous  scientific  expe- 
ditions have  traversed  the  coast  with  such  rapidity  and 
touched  at  so  few  points  that  a  large  proportion  of  it  has  been 
very  insufficiently  examined,  and  its  physiographic  features 
and  geological  structure  still  lack  accurate  description.  In- 
terior exploration  has  been  confined  to  comparatively  few 
routes,  and  in  particular  the  entire  northern  part  of  the 
peninsula,  between  Ungava  Bay  and  the  Atlantic,  where 
exist  probably  the  most  elevated  points  of  land  on  the  eastern 
side  of  the  continent,  has  never  had  its  heights  measured  and 
other  features  determined.  Mr.  Adams's  description  of 
these  opportunities  for  further  research ;  his  excellent  photo- 
graphs of  the  scenery;  his  representations  of  the  game  possi- 
bilities of  the  region;  and  a  general  desire  to  visit  an  un- 
known country  and  to  lead  an  active,  healthy,  outdoor  life 
for  a  short  time,  finally  induced  several  other  men  to  join  him 
in  an  attempt  to  unveil  some  of  the  mysteries  that  still  remain 
unsolved  in  connection  with  the  Labrador  peninsula. 

Tlie  party,  as  finally  organized,  was  composed  of  six 
members.  Edmund  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.,  Professor  of 
Psychology  in  Brown  University,  was  nominally  leader  of 
the  expedition  ;  in  the  absence  of  material  sufficient  to  occupy 
him  largely  in  his  own  specialty,  he  made  a  collection  of 
plants  and  devoted  his  time  for  the  most  part  to  such  exami- 
nation of  them  as  could  be  accomplished  by  one  who  is 
entirely  an  amateur  in  botanical  work.  Reginald  A.  Daly, 
Ph.  D.,  Instructor  in  Geology  in  Harvard  University,  made  a 
thorough  and  efficient  geologicail  and  physiographical  exami- 
nation of  the  coast ;  prosecuted  systematic  studies  of  the  tem- 
perature, salinity,  and  currents  of  the  ocean,  and  sounded  and 
charted  Nachvak  Bay.     The  other  four  men  were  all  under- 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  yi 

graduates  from  Harvard.  Huntington  Adams  organized 
and  provisioned  the  expedition  most  efficiently,  kept  the 
meteorological  records,  and  studied  the  economic  mineral- 
ogy of  the  regions  visited.  In  the  latter  work  he  was  assisted 
by  Lewis  B.  McCornick.  Henry  B.  Bigelow  proved  an  ex- 
cellent ornithologist.  Henry  W.  Palmer  engaged  in  no 
scientific  work,  but  was  attracted  chiefly  by  the  hope  of  sport 
and  adventure. 

On  account  of  the  limited  resources  of  the  party,  the 
expedition  was  made  in  a  sailing  vessel  instead  of  in  a  steamer. 
This  subjected  it  to  numerous  delays  and  made  the  trip  so 
slow  that  there  was  little  time  for  the  much  desired  explora- 
tion of  the  northern  extremity  of  the  country ;  but  it  proved  a 
fortunate  feature  in  that  it  insured  a  thorough  and  detailed 
examination  of  the  coast  greater  than  that  of  any  previous 
scientific  expedition. 

The  ship  secured  for  the  voyage  was  the  "Brave,"  a 
forty-ton  fishing  schooner  owned  by  J.  M.  Butler,  of  St. 
John's,  Newfoundland.  She  had  just  been  entirely  rebuilt, 
and  was  therefore  new  and  clean,  and  well  adapted  to  the 
needs  of  our  small  party.  Her  captain  was  Abram  Batten, 
of  Bareneed,  Conception  Bay — a  very  efficient  man,  skillful 
and  trustworthy,  and  thoroughly  familiar  with  the  Labrador 
coast.  Besides  him,  our  crew  consisted  of  a  cook  and  two 
seamen,  to  whose  willing  and  able  service  we  owe  much  of 
the  success  of  the  expedition.  It  may  encourage  other 
attempts  similar  to  ours  to  know  that  all  the  regular  expenses 
of  the  trip,  including  hire  and  provisioning  of  vessel,  pay  of 
captain  and  crew,  and  such  extra  equipment  and  provisioning 
as  we  ourselves  furnished,  amounted  to  only  about  $1,200  for 
the  entire  party  of  six. 


72  Report  of  the  Brozvn-Harvard  Expedition. 

We  left  St.  John's  at  2.30  in  the  afternoon  of  Monday,  June 
25th.  In  beating  out  between  the  high  cliffs  that  stand  on 
either  side  of  the  narrow  entrance  to  its  magnificent  harbor, 
the  unsteady  winds  characteristic  of  the  place  nearly  caused 
us  to  drift  upon  the  rocks  and  thus  end  our  trip  at  the  very 
start.  Outside  we  found  a  strong  breeze  from  the  south  that 
sent  us  well  along  on  our  way  before  it  began  to  fail  in  the 
evening.  During  the  night  and  following  day  we  made  but 
little  progress,  and  came  to  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Greens- 
pond  Island,  in  Bonavista  Bay,  at  8.30  in  the  evening  of  the 
26th.  A  prolonged  easterly  gale  detained  us  here  five  days. 
On  July  2d,  at  3.45  a.  m.,  we  again  got  under  way,  anchored 
that  night  ofif  Change  Island,  sailed  through  the  next  day 
and  night,  and  at  noon  of  July  4th  were  ofif  Cape  Bauld,  the 
northern  extreme  of  Newfoundland.  Fog  and  calms  frus- 
trated an  attempt  to  continue  across  the  Straits  of  Belle  Isle, 
so  we  beat  back  and  came  to  anchor  in  Kirpon  Harbor,  just 
to  the  west  of  Cape  Bauld.  The  distance  thus  far  from  St. 
John's  was  about  330  miles. 

At  Kirpon  Harbor  we  were  imprisoned  eight  days  by 
ice-floes.  On  the  morning  following  our  arrival  we  discov- 
ered that  the  Straits  were  filled  with  ice  from  one  shore  to  the 
other,  a  width  of  some  25  miles,  and  in  length  as  far  as  we 
could  see.  A  day  later  the  harbor  also  was  blocked.  A 
large  number  of  other  vessels — probably  as  many  as  three  or 
four  hundred,  according  to  Captain  Batten — were  also  de- 
tained in  this  and  neighboring  harbors,  awaiting  an  oppor- 
tunity to  cross  to  the  Labrador  fishing  grounds.  We  occu- 
pied the  time  in  excursions  over  the  ice  and  about  the  neigh- 
borhood on  shore,  and  in  familiarizing  ourselves  with  the 
details  of  our  scientific  work. 


E.  B.  Delaharre,  Ph.  D.  jT) 

At  last,  on  Friday,  July  13th,  the  way  before  us  lay  clear, 
and  we  crossed  to  the  Labrador  coast,  making  our  first  an- 
chorage that  evening  in  St.  Lewis  Sound,  between  Hare 
Island  and  Little  Caribou — a  run  of  43  miles.  We  went 
ashore  at  once  on  Great  Caribou  Island  and  made  botanical 
and  geological  observations.  Almost  every  subsequent 
evening  during  our  trip,  and  many  entire  days,  when  un- 
favorable winds  made  it  impossible  to  proceed,  we  had  simi- 
lar opportunities  for  work.  Inasmuch  as  a  summary  of  this 
work  and  a  description  of  the  scenery  of  the  coast  will  be 
given  in  later  pages,  the  chief  features  of  the  remainder  of  the 
trip  may  now  be  presented  in  very  brief  form,  except  when 
incidents  of  especial  interest  demand  fuller  detail. 

July  14. — Started  at  5.30  a.  m.,  but  were  unable  to  get 
outside  of  St.  Lewis  Sound  on  account  of  fog  and  of  ice 
blocking  the  entrance.  Return,  and  anchor  off  Assizes 
Island  at  9.30  a.  m.,  having  sailed  13  miles. 

July  15. — Ice-floes  throughout  the  harbor.  Remain  at 
anchor,  but  row  up  St.  Charles  River  for  exploration  and 
wood. 

July  16. — No  wind.  Some  of  the  party  visit  Battle 
Harbor. 

July  17. — Start  4  a.  m.  and  run  65  miles.  Little  ice,  and 
much  scattered.  Anchor  6.30  p.  m.  in  bight  at  southwest  end 
of  Seal  Island. 

July  18. — Delayed  by  high  north  wind. 

July  19. — North  wind  continues,  and  foggy.  Some  of 
the  party  row  to  Sloop  Harbor  and  explore  on  the  main- 
land. 

July  20. — At  11.30  A.  M.  again  under  way.  Pass 
through   considerable   floe-ice.     Much   fog   during  part   of 


74  Report  of  the  Broivn-Harvard  Expedition. 

day.  Anchor  in  Gready  Island  Harbor,  53  miles,  at  10.15 
p.  M. 

July  21. — Start  6  a.  m.  Anchor  10.10  p.  m.  in  Pottle's 
Cove,  on  north  side  of  West  Bay,  just  to  the  south  of  the 
entrance  to  Hamilton  Inlet.  Much  scattered  ice.  Distance, 
42  miles. 

July  22,  23. — At  Pottle's  Cove.  Delayed  one  day  by  fog" 
and  unfavorable  wind,  the  next  by  a  desire  to  continue  ob- 
servations here.  The  sandy  beaches  in  this  vicinity  are  the 
only  ones  of  any  extent  in  Labrador.  Daly  discovers  glacial 
striae,  the  first  evidences  of  glaciation  he  has  found. 

July  24. — Cross  entrance  to  Hamilton  Inlet,  making 
run  to  Ice  Tickle,  between  Ice  Tickle  Island  and  Rodney 
Mundy  Island,  21  miles,  from  6.30  to  10.15  a.  m.  Little  ice 
passed,  much  visible  ahead.  Wind  being  also  against  us, 
further  progress  through  the  narrow  channels  is  impossible. 
Our  first  display  of  aurora  borealis  in  the  evening.  Explore 
neighboring  islands  and  visit  Indian  Harbor. 

July  25. — Contrary  winds.     Remain  at  anchor. 

July  26. — Make  short  run  of  only  nine  miles,  because  of 
shifting  of  wind  to  the  north.  Anchor  in  Sloop  Harbor,  be- 
tween Brig  Harbor  Island  and  Sloop  Island.  Very  little  ice 
visible. 

July  2y. — Light  and  variable  winds.  Sail  from  5  a.  m. 
to  9.15  p.  M.,  passing  Cape  Harrison,  and  make  51  miles. 
Anchor  in  Jigger  Island  Tickle,     No  ice  encountered. 

July  28. — Fog  and  unfavorable  winds.  Run  32  miles 
from  1 1  A.  M.  to  9.25  p.  M.  Little  ice.  Anchor  in  an  un- 
named bight  on  mainland  northwest  of  Conical  Island,  and, 
on  account  of  the  experiences  of  the  following  day,  name  it 
Mosquito  Bight. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  75 

July  29. — Light  winds.  Remain  at  anchor  and  get 
wood.     Much  trouble  from  mosquitoes. 

July  30. — Almost  calm.  Drift  on  to  Pomiadluk  Point, 
making  only  10  miles  in  the  entire  day.  Climb  mountain 
above  the  Point,  and  establish  its  height  as  1,170  feet.  Many 
interesting  geological  features  here — roches  montomiees,  con- 
glomerates, lunoid  markings,  etc. 

July  31. — No  wind.     Remain  at  anchor. 

August  I. — Still  calm.  Make  about  three  miles  in  eight 
hours. 

August  2. — Weigh  anchor  10.30.  Tow  out  off  Pomi- 
adluk Point,  and  thence,  with  occasional  light  winds  but 
mostly  calms,  make  slow  and  slight  progress.  At  midnight 
drifting  off  Cape  Mokkovik. 

August  3. — Anchor,  because  of  contrary  winds,  in  Sum- 
mer Cove,  Aillik  Bay,  at  6  a.  m.  Distance  from  last  anchor- 
age, 14  miles.  Adams,  Daly,  and  Delabarre,  attempting  to 
land  in  the  surf  on  a  distant  part  of  the  shore,  are  dashed  onto 
hidden  reefs  and  wreck  their  rowboat.  Are  later  rescued  by 
fishermen  who  happen  by.  Boat  is  recovered  and  repaired 
the  following  day.  Small  auroral  display  in  the  even- 
ing. 

August  4,  5. — Lack  of  wind  during  the  morning  of  the 
4th  and  probability  of  its  continuance,  together  with  general 
disinclination  of  our  crew  to  sail  on  Sundays,  decide  us  to 
remain  here  two  days,  explore  Mokkovik  Bay,  and  attempt 
to  climb  Mt.  Altagaiyaivik  (otherwise  known  as  Mt.  Misery 
or  Monkey  Hill,  2,170  feet).  Mokkovik  Bay  is  badly  and 
variously  charted,  and  it  was  uncertain  how  far  it  might 
extend  inland,  and  whether  or  not  it  might  interfere  with 
our  attempt  to  reach  the  mountain.     Bigelow,   Delabarre, 


76  Report  of  th:  Bromn-Harvard  Expedition. 

and  McCornick  started  on  this  expedition  in  the  early  after- 
noon of  the  4th;  sailed  in  a  small  boat  four  miles  to  the  head 
of  Aillik  Bay,  and  thence  walked  to  the  south  across  an  inter- 
vening neck  to  Mokkovik  Bay  and  along  the  shore  of  the 
latter.  We  passed  the  night  in  our  sleeping-bags  on  the 
shore,  after  walking  a  distance  of  about  seven  miles.  On  the 
following  morning  we  continued  along  the  west  shore  of 
Mokkovik  to  the  southward  for  about  seven  miles,  being  then 
nearly  opposite  the  southern  end  of  Altagaiyaivik,  which  lay 
across  the  bay  on  the  eastern  shore.  It  was  then  evident  that 
the  bay  stretched  on  for  at  least  four  miles  further  in  a  south- 
westerly direction,  and  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  get 
around  it,  climb  the  mountain,  and  return  to  the  ship  before 
nightfall.  We  therefore  turned  back,  returning  by  nearly  the 
same  route  as  that  by  which  we  had  come,  and  reached  the 
ship  again  at  7.30  p.  m.  It  was  evident  from  our  observa- 
tions that  from  Cape  Mokkovik  the  bay  stretches  inland,  with 
several  curvings.  at  least  25  miles.  Its  general  directions 
are :  south,  for  six  or  seven  miles ;  southwest,  about  five  miles ; 
south,  about  six  miles ;  southwest,  five  miles  or  more.  Near 
the  beginning  of  the  first  turn  to  the  southwest  is  a  recently 
established  Moravian  Mission  station.  The  bay  is  sur- 
rounded by  picturesque  hills,  of  which  Altagaiyaivik,  2,170 
feet,  is  apparently  the  highest.  Its  shores  in  many  places  are 
well  wooded,  the  spruce  growing  to  the  height  of  about  50 
feet. 

August  6. — A  fair  run  of  42  miles,  between  5  a.  m.  and 
6.30  p.  M.,  brought  us  to  the  Moravian  station  at  Hopedale. 
We  were  courteously  received  by  the  missionaries,  and  found 
our  first  mail  awaiting  us. 

August  7. — Start  at  5.30  a.  m.  and  run  53  miles,  anchor- 


C  Mc*Aiiyi/< 


Aillik 

and 

Mokkovik<  Bays 

Uraivn  parr/y  from  /!dmira/ry  C/rarfj 
andparr/y  /ro/r persona/ oijeryon>,7 


Ata^neTic  Vor/ofiory 


yfOfjAoy  fff'//} 


The  accompanying  chart  embodies  the  results  of  our  observations. 
Although  not  based  on  a  careful  survey  with  accurate  instruments,  but 
constructed  by  the  cruder  methods  of  visual  impressions,  compass- 
directions  for  the  shore-lines  traversed,  and  estimate  of  distances  by 
the  rate  of  walking,  yet  it  is  given  as  being  more  accurate  than  hitherto- 
published  charts.  Comparison  of  this  with  others,  as,  for  instance, 
Bryant's  map  of  this  section  (adapted  from  Proceedings  of  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society,  1888),  published  with  this  report,  will  show  how 
varied  and  unauthoritative  the  latter  are,  and  how  great  is  the  need 
of  careful  work  of  this  sort.  Even  such  a  cursory  survey  as  ours  could 
greatly  improve  the  recorded  outlines  of  the  islands  and  coast  in  hun- 
dreds of  places;  and  accurate  work  by  experienced  men  would  be  of 
much  value  to  the  numerous  vessels  that  frequent  this  coast. 


E.  B.  Dclaharre,  Ph.  D.  yy 

ing  at  6  p.  m.  in  Quirk  (or  Draw  Bucket)  Tickle,  a  little  to  the 
west  of  Kikkertaksoak  (Spracklings  Island). 

August  8. — Leave  6.15  a.  m.  Light  winds,  becoming 
almost  calm.  At  5.15  p.  m.  anchor  in  Ford  Harbor,  Paul's 
Island,  26  miles.  Mr.  Ford  informs  us  that  the  northern 
end  of  the  ice-sheet  passed  here  about  a  week  ago.  We 
ourselves  have  seen  no  floe-ice  since  July  28,  and  encounter 
none  during  remainder  of  trip. 

August  9. — Almost  absolute  calm.  Drift  about  all  day, 
and  make  only  about  three  miles.  Anchor  just  outside  of 
Ford  Harbor. 

August  10. — Start  7  a.  m.  Calm  in  morning,  light  wind 
in  afternoon.  Anchor  at  8  p.  m.  at  Black  Island,  20  miles. 
Two  settlers  here,  George  Webb  and  Chestry  Ford,  arrange 
to  take  us  on  hunting  expeditions,  one  on  Black  Island, 
known  to  contain  a  herd  of  caribou,  and  one  near  Port  Man- 
vers. 

August  II. — Day  opens  calm  and  foggy.  Bigelow  and 
Palmer  start  early  with  Ford  to  hunt  on  Black  Island. 
Adams  and  McCornick  set  out  in  skiff  with  Webb  for  Port 
Manvers.  Schooner  starts  11. 15,  overtakes  and  picks  up 
second  party,  and  anchors  in  Port  Manvers,  5.30  p.  m.,  18 
miles. 

August  12. — Adams,  Delabarre,  McCornick,  and  Webb 
hunt  on  mainland.  Secure  a  black  bear  and  a  caribou  before 
noon.  Other  party  arrives  from  Black  Island  at  9.15  p.  m., 
after  a  wet,  cold,  and  difficult  all-day  sail  in  a  trap-skiff  and 
a  narrow  escape  from  shipwreck. 

August  13. — Bigelow  and  McCornick  decide  to  stay  in 
a  small  hut  at  Port  Manvers  until  our  return  from  the  north. 
We  land  supplies,  then  start  10.45  a.  m.,  sailing  28  miles  to 
Cutthroat  Tickle,  where  anchor  at  8.45  p.  m. 


78  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

August  14. — High  northwest  wind,  diminishing  in  farce. 
Start  1 1. 1 5  A.  M.  Complete  cahn  after  7  p,  m.,  and  tow  the 
ship  from  8.30  p.  m.  to  12.20,  when  w^e  anchor  in  bight  on 
south  side  of  Mugford  Tickle.     Distance  made,  28  miles. 

August  15. — Absolute  calm.     Remain  at  anchor. 

August  16,  17. — Start  9.30  a.  m.  Light  wind  through 
Mugford  Tickle,  calm  almost  all  the  rest  of  the  day  and  the 
following  morning.  Northerly  gale  arises  about  noon  of 
17th,  making  it  impossible  to  round  Cape  Saglek,  so  we  put 
into  Hebron  Harbor,  anchoring  3.30  p.  m.,  45  miles  from 
Mugford.     Visit  missionaries  at  the  station. 

August  18. — Northerly  gale  continues.  Remain  at  an- 
chor at  Hebron.  Missionaries  tell  us  of  a  practicable  route 
overland  to  Nachvak,  about  a  hundred  miles  distant.  Adams 
and  Delabarre  decide  to  take  it,  leaving  Daly  and  Palmer  to 
continue  in  the  schooner. 

August  19. — Adams  and  Delabarre  start  on  their  over- 
land trip,  which  is  specially  described  later  (in  Section  HI). 
Ship  remains  at  anchor,  with  wind  light  and  unfavorable. 

August  20,  21. — Ship  starts  10.30  a.  m.  Wind  light 
and  often  failing,  and  remain  out  all  night.  Wind  still  light 
the  following  day,  and  finally  towing  is  necessary.  At  6 
P.  M.  anchor  in  bight  on  north  shore  of  Nachvak  Bay,  three 
miles  w^est  of  the  narrows,  having  sailed  76  miles  from 
Hebron. 

August  22. — Start  9.45  a.  m.  and  proceed  with  light 
winds  15  miles  west  through  Nachvak  Bay  to  Kipsimarvik, 
where  is  a  station  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  of  which 
George  Ford  is  agent.     Anchor  here  4.30  p.  m. 

August  23  to  September  3,  inclusive,  12  days,  the  ship 
remained  at  anchor  close  by  Mr.  Ford's  house,  in  Nachvak 
Bay.     We  were  received  with  great  cordiality  by  Mr.  Ford, 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  79 

and  we  owe  much  to  his  kindly  hospitality  during  our  stay. 
This  was  the  most  northerly  point  reached  by  the  expedition. 
Adams  and  Delabarre  arrived  August  26th.  The  time  was 
spent  in  making  as  thorough  an  exploration  as  possible  of 
the  bay  and  its  surroundings.  In  particular,  the  bay  was 
sounded  and  charted,  geological  and  botanical  examinations 
were  made  of  the  surrounding  countr)',  and  measurements 
of  the  heights  of  some  of  the  neighboring  mountains.  Low- 
lying  clouds,  which  prevailed  during  most  of  our  stay,  un- 
fortunately made  it  impossible  to  accomplish  as  much  of  the 
latter  kind  of  work  as  we  desired.  A  description  is  given 
later  (Section  IV)  of  the  bay  and  of  the  most  important 
ascent  made.  September  ist  was  set  as  the  date  for  our 
departure,  but  lack  of  favorable  winds  delayed  us  until  the 
4th.  We  would  gladly  have  remained  longer  in  this  region, 
so  grand  and  impressive  in  its  scenery  and  afifording  so  many 
opportunities  for  exploration  of  value ;  and  we  also  strongly 
wished  to  push  on  the  short  distance  further  to  Cape  Chidley, 
and  to  make  a  careful  study  of  the  interior  between  it  and 
Nachvak.  In  fact,  this  had  been  one  of  our  strongest  cjesires 
in  undertaking  the  expedition.  But  the  long  time  consumed 
in  the  outward  voyage  and  the  necessity  of  returning  for  col- 
lege work  obliged  us  to  turn  homeward. 

September  4. — Start  10  a.  m.  with  light  winds,  and  suc- 
ceed by  6.30  p.  M.  in  sailing  only  about  four  miles.  Anchor  in 
a  small  bight  on  the  west  shore  of  Ivitak  (in  Nachvak  Bay). 

September  5,  6. — Start  7.30  a.  m.  of  the  5th.  Remain 
out  all  night,  and  anchor  in  Hebron  Harbor,  87  miles,  at  2 
p.  M.  of  the  6th. 

September  7,  8,  9. — Unfavorable  winds  delay  us  at 
Hebron.     Snow  falls  all  the  afternoon  of  the  8th. 


8o  Report  of  the  Broivn-Harvard  Expedition. 

September  lo. — Hebron  (6  a.  m.)  to  Cutthroat  Tickle 
(5  p.  M.),  71  miles. 

September  11. — Start  7.30  a.  m.  At  10  a.  m.  arrive  off 
Port  Manvers  and  attempt  to  beat  in ;  but  outgoing  tide  and 
unfavorable  wind  prevent.  Continue  on,  therefore,  to  Black 
Island,  to  inquire  if  Webb  and  Ford  there  have  any  recent 
knowledge  of  the  two  we  left  at  Manvers.  Return  later  to 
Port  Manvers,  anchoring  therein  at  5  p.  m.  Bigelow  and 
McCornick  rejoin  the  schooner.  Their  month  here  has  been 
pleasant  and  uneventful.     Distance  sailed,  to-day,  66  miles. 

September  12. — Port  Manvers  (11.30  a.  m.)  to  John's 
Harbor,  near  south  end  of  Aulatsivik  (8  p.  m.),  30  miles. 

September  13. — John's  Harbor  (7  a.  m.)  to  Nain  (5 
p.  M.),  22,  miles.  We  put  into  Nain  instead  of  continuing 
directly  southward,  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  a  mine  of  lab- 
radorite  on  Taber's  Island,  a  dozen  miles  from  Nain.  At 
Nain  we  found  Dr.  Grenfell,  of  the  Labrador  Medical  Mis- 
sion, who  kindly  offered  to  take  us  in  his  steamer,  the  "Strath- 
cona,"  to  Taber's  Island  on  the  following  day.  Of  Dr.  Gren- 
fell and  his  splendidly  conducted  mission  I  shall  speak  again 
(Section  VI).  The  generous  courtesy  he  showed  us  is  char- 
acteristic of  the  man,  and  was  a  great  saving  of  time  to  us. 

September  14. — Schooner  proceeds  to  Ford  Harbor,  20 
miles.  Members  of  expedition  accompany  Dr.  Grenfell  to 
Taber's  Island,  where  specimens  of  labradorite  are  secured, 
and  rejoin  the  schooner  in  the  afternoon  at  Ford  Harbor. 

September  15. — Ford  Harbor  (5  a.  m.)  to  Quirk  Tickle 
(5  p.  M.),  26  miles. 

September  16. — Quirk  Tickle  (6.30  a.  m.)  to  Hopedale 
(4  p.  M.),  53  miles.  Secure  our  first  mail  and  papers  since 
our  previous  call  here,  August  6th. 


A'iew    to   the    North    from   a    Hill    aliove    Hopedale:     a    typical 
southern    landscape. 


The   Kiglapait. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  8i 

September  17. — Remain  at  anchor  at  Hopeclale. 

September  18. — Hopedale  (6  a.  m.)  to  Sloop  Harbor,  ofif 
Brig  Harbor  Island  (9.45  p.  m.),  125  miles. 

September  19. — Sloop  Harbor  (5.30  a.  m.)  to  Mullin's 
Cove,  on  mainland  south  of  Gready  Island  (7.30  p.  m.),  63 
miles.  The  distance  covered  during  these  last  two  days  re- 
quired 17  days  during  the  northward  voyage. 

September  20. — Mullin's  Cove  (5.45  a.  m.)  to  American 
Tickle,  Seal  Islands  (3.30  p.  m.),  49  miles. 

September  21. — Southerly  winds  keep  us  at  anchor. 

September  22. — American  Tickle  (5  a.  m.)  to  Cape  St. 
Francis  Harbor  (4  p.  m.),  42  miles. 

September  23,  24. — Detained  by  unfavorable  winds. 

September  25,  26. — Leave  Cape  St.  Francis  6  a.  m. 
Cross  the  Straits  of  Belle  Isle.  Wind  drops  in  afternoon, 
and  we  beat  along  off  Cape  Bauld  and  White  Islands  all 
night.  Fresh  wind  from  the  south  causes  us  to  anchor  at 
Grand  Brehat,  Newfoundland,  at  7.30  a.  m.  of  the  26th.  Dis- 
tance, 78  miles. 

September  27. — At  anchor. 

September  28. — Leave  Grand  Brehat  7  a.  m.  Nt  noon, 
on  account  of  thick,  foggy  weather  and  other  unfavorable 
conditions,  anchor  in  harbor  of  Cape  Rouge  (or  Crouse),  40 
miles. 

September  29,  30. — Detained  by  unfavorable  winds. 

October  i,  2. — Start  2  a.  m.  and  take  six  hours  to  get  out 
of  the  harbor.  A  favorable  wind  is  met  outside,  and  we  cover 
the  268  miles  to  St.  John's  in  40  hours.  Are  well  within  the 
harbor  by  midnight  of  the  2d,  and  come  to  anchor  there  a 
half  hour  later. 

It  was  with  great  surprise  that  we  learned,  soon  after  our 


82  Report  of  the  Bromn-Harvard  Expedition. 

arrival,  of  the  undue  prominence  that  had  been  given  to  our 
expedition  in  the  newspapers.  They  had  taken  advantag'e 
of  our  lateness  in  returning,  and  of  a  hurricane  that  had  re- 
cently wrought  much  havoc  on  the  Newfoundland  coast,  to 
proclaim  that  we  were  probably  lost.  There  was  no  founda- 
tion whatever  for  their  sensational  accounts.  We  had  not 
encountered  the  hurricane,  nor  otherwise  been  in  peril. 

The  voyage  on  the  whole  was  one  of  great  pleasure  and 
profit.  The  wild,  mountainous  scenery  of  the  coast  alone 
would  have  repaid  us.  The  slowness  of  our  progress  made 
impossible  of  accomplishment  some  of  our  original  projects; 
but  it  really  interfered  with  very  few  of  them,  and,  on  the 
other  hand,  it  helped  far  more  than  it  hindered.  To  it  is 
due  the  fact  that  we  examined  the  coast  in  a  more  thorough 
and  detailed  manner  than  had  previously  been  accomplished, 
and  thus  made  a  considerable  number  of  observations  and 
discoveries  of  scientific  interest,  particularly  along  geological 
lines.  The  results  of  our  work  will  be  given  in  Section  VII 
and  followinsf. 


II 

SUMMARY  OF  THE  VOYAGE,   AND   METEOROLOGICAL  CON- 
DITIONS. 

A  considerable  portion  of  the  data  about  to  be  given 
is  derived  from  observations  of  such  a  nature  that  there  can 
be  no  question  as  to  their  accuracy.  But  others  depend  upon 
the  records  of  more  or  less  faulty  apparatus,  and  the  tables 
summarizing  these  records  cannot  lay  claim  to  any  high 
degree  of  value.  They  may  ser\'e  to  give  a  fairly  good  gen- 
eral idea  of  the  conditions  under  which  the  trip  was  made; 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  83 

but  they  cannot  be  used  as  a  basis  for  calculations  or  deduc- 
tions where  a  close  approximation  to  absolute  accuracy  is 
essential.  None  of  the  members  of  the  expedition  had  had 
previous  experience  in  the  taking  of  meteorological  records ; 
there  was  no  opportunity  before  the  start  to  visit  Washing- 
ton for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  reliable  instruments  and 
instruction  in  their  use ;  and  the  time  of  the  members  during 
the  trip  was  so  often  devoted  to  other  scientific  interests  that 
there  was  a  considerable  amount  of  irregularity  in  making 
these  observations.  Records  were  kept,  however,  with  such 
regularity  as  was  possible,  in  spite  of  the  imperfection  of  the 
instruments,  mainly  for  the  satisfaction  of  the  members  of 
the  party.  Realizing  that  they  contain  a  high  and  indeter- 
minable degree  of  error,  I  have  had  some  doubt  as  to  the 
expediency  of  publishing  them.  It  has  been  suggested,  how- 
ever, that  they  may  not  be  absolutely  without  value,  and  so 
they  are  given  out  with  these  words  of  caution  as  to  their 
reliability. 

The  expedition  left  St.  John's  in  the  ''Brave''  on  the 
afternoon  of  June  25th,  and  re-arrived  at  St.  John's  just  after 
midnight  of  the  morning  of  October  3d.  The  voyage  was 
thus  finished  on  the  looth  day  after  the  departure.  On  the 
northward  journey,  18  days  were  passed  in  Newfoundland; 
41  days,  from  July  13th  to  August  22d,  in  going  along  the 
Labrador  from  the  Straits  of  Belle  Isle  to  Nachvak  Bay. 
On  the  return,  22  days,  from  September  4th  to  September 
25th,  were  passed  on  the  Labrador,  and  seven  days  on  the 
Newfoundland  coast.  It  thus  took  59  days  to  make  the  north- 
ward journey;  12  days  were  devoted  to  the  stay  at  Nachvak; 
and  29  days  were  required  for  the  return.  The  southward 
trip  was  accompHshed  in  about  half  the  time  of  the  north- 


84  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

ward.  During  one  day  of  the  return  (September  18th),  a 
distance  was  covered  that  had  occupied,  on  account  of  un- 
favorable winds  alone,  11  days  in  going  north;  and  on  the 
following  day  a  distance  to  which  six  days  had  previously 
been  devoted.     The  other  gains  were  smaller. 

The  total  distance  sailed  was  about  2,100  miles,  of  which 
not  far  from  1,400  were  along  the  Labrador  coast  in  the  two 
directions.  The  rate  of  travel,  counting  only  the  days  on 
which  some  progress  was  made,  averaged  2)2)\  miles  a  day 
on  the  way  north,  55  miles  on  the  way  south,  and  about  42 
miles  for  both  together. 

It  was  possible  to  sail  at  all  on  only  about  half  the  days 
devoted  to  the  voyage ;  and  very  nearly  the  same  proportion 
held  for  both  the  outward  and  the  return  voyage.  Of  the 
days  during  which  some  progress  was  made,  from  one-third 
to  one-half  were  so  unfavorable  that  a  distance  of  less  than 
25  miles  was  covered.  Thus,  on  the  journey  north,  of  the 
59  days,  only  31  permitted  any  sailing  at  all  (and  two  of  these 
were  without  any  real  advance),  only  25  saw  a  greater  dis- 
tance covered  than  15  miles,  and  only  22  more  than  25  miles. 
On  the  return,  during  19  days  of  the  29,  some  distance  was 
made,  during  16  more  than  15  miles,  during  only  14  more 
than  25  miles.  Going  north  (59  days),  detention  was  due : 
to  ice-floes.  9  days  (the  ice  proving  a  serious  obstacle  to 
progress  on  several  other  days  also),  to  unfavorable  winds, 
17  days,  and  to  voluntary  delay,  2  days.  On  6  other  days  a 
distance  of  less  than  15  miles  was  covered.  This  makes  a 
total,  not  including  the  two  days  of  voluntary  detention,  of 
32  unfavorable  days  (more  than  half)  on  which  it  was  impos- 
sible to  progress  at  least  15  miles.  Going  south  (32  days, 
counting  3  at  Nachvak,  on  which  it  had  been  planned  to  sail), 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  85 

unfavorable  winds  prevented  sailing  on  13  days  and  pre- 
vented progress  of  at  least  15  miles  on  3  additional  days — a 
total  of  16  unfavorable  days,  or  exactly  one-half. 

The  two  chief  obstacles  to  progress  were  thus  the  large 
floes  of  ice  streaming  southward  along  the  coast,  and  winds 
contrary  in  direction  or  insufficient  in  force.  The  last 
trouble  from  the  ice  was  on  July  24,  at  Ice  Tickle;  the  last 
day  on  which  we  saw  any  floe-ice  at  all  was  July  28 ;  and  Ford, 
of  Paul's  Island,  said  that  the  northern  end  of  the  ice-sheet 
passed  Ford  Harbor  about  the  ist  of  August.  The  prevail- 
ing winds  were  from  the  northerly  and  southerly  quarters. 
During  the  northward  voyage,  nearly  half  the  winds  (44  per 
cent.)  were  northerly,  and  only  25  per  cent,  southerly. 
During  the  return,  about  30  per  cent,  were  from  the  north 
and  31  per  cent,  from  the  south. 

According  to  the  Newfoundland  and  Labrador  Pilot, 
"gales  are  stated  to  be  frequent  and  violent"  on  the  Labrador 
coast.  The  expedition  encountered  but  one  or  two  of  any 
considerable  force,  during  which  it  was  safely  in  harbor. 
The  Pilot  further  says  that  calms  are  of  short  duration,  "rarely 
lasting  more  than  one  day."  About  14  per  cent,  of  the  ob- 
servations taken  during  the  entire  trip  recorded  no  wind  at 
all.  If  we  group  among  the  calm  days  those  on  which  less 
than  15  miles  could  be  sailed,  as  well  as  those  when  the  wind 
was  insufficient  to  permit  any  sailing  at  all,  then  25  per  cent, 
of  all  the  days  during  the  northerly  voyage  were  calm,  and 
there  were  many  more  when  it  was  calm  during  a  portion  of 
the  day.  About  the  same  proportion  held  for  the  voyage 
southward.  These  calm  days  came  quite  as  frequently  sev- 
eral in  succession  as  singly. 

The  following  table  gives  in  their  order  from  St.  John's 
northward  the  different  harbors  at  which  we  touched,  the 


86 


Report  of  the  Broivn-Harvurd  Expedition. 


date  of  our  arrival  (except  St.  John's  outward  and  Hudson's 
Bay  Post,  Nachvak,  homeward,  when  it  is  the  date  of  the 
departure),  and  the  approximate  distances  from  the  last  pre- 
vious station  (to  be  read  downward  for  the  outward  and  up- 
ward for  the  homeward  trip)  : — 


TABLE  I. 

LOCATION  OF  THE    "BRAVE"    THROUGHOUT  THE  VOYAGE. 


I 

2 

3 
4 
5 
6 

7 
8 

9 

lO 

II 

12 

13 
14 
15 
l6 

17 
i8 

19 

20 
21 
22 

23 
24 

25 
26 
27 
28 
29 

30 
31 

32 

34 


STATIONS  * 


OUT- 
WARD 


St.  John's,  N.  F., 

Greenspond  Island,  N.  F., 

Change  Island,  N.  F., 

Cape  Rouge,  N.  F., 

Grand  Brehat,  N.  F., 

Kirpon  Harbor,  N.  F. , 

Hare  Island,  Lab., 

Assizes  Harbor, 

Cape  St.  Francis  Harbor, 

American  Tickle, 

Seal  Island, 

Mullin's  Cove, 

Gready  Island, 

Pottle's  Cove,  West  Bay,       

Ice  Tickle,       

Sloop  Harbor,  Brig  Harbor  Island,      .    . 

Jigger  Island, 

Mosquito  Bight  (unnamed  on  chart ;  west 
of  Adlavik  Islands), 

Pomiadluk  Point, 

AillikBay, 

Hopedale, 

Quirk  (or  Draw  Bucket)  Tickle,      .    .    . 

Ford  Harbor, 

Ford  Run,       

Nain, 

John's  Harbor, 

Black  Island  Harbor, 

Port  Manvers, 

Cutthroat  Tickle,  

Mugford  Tickle, 

Hebron, 

Skynner's  Cove,  Nachvak  Bay,    .... 

Ivitak,  Nachvak  Bay, 

Hud.son's  Bay  Post  (Kipsimarvik),  Nach- 
vak Bay,      


June  25 
June  26 
July      2 


July  4 
July  13 
July    14 


July    17 


July  20 
July  21 
July  24 
July  26 
July  27 

July  28 
July  30 
Aug.  3 
Aug.  6 
Aug.  7 
Aug.  8 
Aug.  9 


Aug.  10 
Aug.  II 
Aug.  13 
Aug.  14 
Aug.  17 
Aug.  21 


Aug.  22 


DIS- 
TANCE 


109 
60 


ISO 
43 


65 

53 
42 
21 
9 
51 

32 
14 
14 

42 

S3 
26 

3 


23 
18 
28 
28 

45 
76 


15 


HOME-  DIS- 

WARD      TANCE 


Oct.         2 


Sept.  28 
Sept.  25 


Sept.  22 
Sept.  20 

Sept.   19 


Sept.   18 


Sept.  16 

Sept.  15 

Sept.  14 

Sept.  13 

Sept.  12 

(Sept.  II) 

Sept.  II 

Sept.  10 

Sept.  6 


Sept.     4 
Sept.     4 


268 


40 

78 


42 
49 

63 


125 


53 
26 


23 
30 

28 
71 

87 


*  The  authoritative  spelling  of  some  of  these  names  is  doubtful. 
Different  charts  do  not  always  agree  with  one  another,  nor  with  the 
Newfoimdland  and  Labrador  Pilot. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  87 

Sim,  Rain,  and  Snozv. — There  was  a  fairly  even  propor- 
tion of  sun  and  rain.  About  one-fourth  of  the  days  were 
wholly  sunny;  only  about  one-third  of  them  were  without 
any  sunshine  at  all.  Very  nearly  half  of  the  days  had  some 
rain,  though  of  these  only  6  were  rainy  all  day.  The  amount 
of  rain  that  fell  was  not  large.  Usually  there  occurred  only 
light  showers  or  drizzle,  and  there  was  not  a  single  really 
heavy  rainfall.  Snow  fell  only  once  at  sea-level,  on  Septem- 
ber 8th.  There  were  no  thunder  showers,  though  once  or 
twace  single  faint  claps  of  thunder  were  heard,  no  lightning 
being  visible.  The  first  half  of  the  trip  was  more  rainy  than 
the  rest  of  it.  Of  the  49  days  to  August  12th,  only  15  were 
without  rain,  and  3  of  these  were  overcast.  The  longest 
periods  without  rain  were  9  days  from  August  13th  to  August 
2 1st,  3  of  which  were  overcast;  and  7  days  from  September 
9th  to  September  15th,  none  of  them  wholly  overcast.  The 
longest  period  of  overcast  skies  consisted  of  10  successive 
days,  from  August  28th  to  September  6th,  on  4  of  which 
there  was  rain,  and  on  2  a  very  small  amount  of  sun. 

These  observations  compare  with  others  accessible  to  us 
as  follows :  The  Pilot  speaks  of  "the  few  fine  days  of  Summer." 
Lx>w  (Explorations  in  the  Labrador  Pehinsula,  1886,  p.  29),  re- 
marks :  "During  the  summer  season  the  precipitation,  if  not 
great,  is  constant,  as  a  day  rarely  passes  without  drizzle,  or 
thunder  showers,  which  lower  the  temperature."  Yet 
Bryant  (Journey  to  the  Grand  Falls  of  Labrador)  speaks  of 
only  10  of  the  41  days  from  August  4  to  September  13,  1891, 
as  rainy,  3  as  having  occasional  showers,  and  one  as  cloudy — 
the  remaining  27  being  presumably  largely  sunny.  During 
the  same  period  as  Bryant,  w^e,  on  the  coast  to  the  north  of 
Hamilton  Inlet,  had  15  days  with  more  or  less  rain,  though 
of  these  6  had  a  large  proportion  of  sunshine ;  and  there  were 


88 


Report  of  tJie  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 


lo  others  that  were  wholly  or  predominantly  cloudy.  Low's 
observations  were  made  in  a  part  of  the  country  for  the  most 
part  very  different  from  that  of  our  own  expedition.  In 
1893,  between  August  13th  and  September  30th,  his  journey- 
ings  corresponded  most  nearly  with  our  own,  covering  the 
territory  from  the  Upper  Koksoak  to  Chimo,  around  to  the 
Atlantic  coast,  and  south  to  Rigolet;  and  of  the  48  days,  5 
had  rain  and  about  20  others  were  overcast  (clouds  7  or  more 
on  a  scale  of  10).  In  1894,  between  July  ist  and  August 
24th,  he  was  on  the  Upper  Hamilton,  among  the  lakes,  and 
on  the  Romaine  River  south  to  Mingan  ;  of  the  55  days,  there 
was  rain  on  36  and  7  were  overcast.  In  1895,  July  ist  to 
September  2d,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Manicouagan  River,  of 
the  64  days,  46  were  rainy.  All  authorities  agree  as  to  the 
small  amount  of  annual  precipitation. 

These  comparisons  are  summarized  in  the  following 
table.  In  considering  the  comparisons,  one  must  remember 
that  the  observations  of  Low  and  Bryant  were  made  for  the 
most  part  in  the  interior,  in  the  localities  above  mentioned, 
while  ours  were  made  on  the  coast ;  and  that  some  error  may 
arise  from  my  interpretation  of  their  records,  the  terms  used 
by  them  not  being  idefitical  with  those  given  here : — 

TABLE  II. 

SUNNY,    OVERCAST,    AND   RAINY   DAYS. 


Bryant. 

Aug.  4- 

Sept.  13, 

1891. 

Low. 

"  Brave." 

Aug.  13- 

Sept.30, 

1893. 

July  I- 

Aug.  24. 

1894. 

July  I- 

Sept.2, 

1895. 

June  2S- 

Oct.  2, 

1900. 

Days  wholly  or  largely  sunny,  .    .    ,    , 
Days  largely  overcast,  without  rain,  .    . 
Days  mainly  sunny,  with  some  rain,     . 
Days  mainly  overcast,  with  some  rain,  . 
Days  predominantly  rainy, 

27 

I 

10 

23 
20 

5 

12 

7 
36 

18 
46 

30 
19 
16 

28 

7 

Total  days, 

41 

48 

55 

64 

100 

£.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D. 


89 


Our  own  observations  can  be  presented  best  in  another 
series  of  tables,  as  follows : — 


TABLE   III. 

SUNSHINE   AND    RAIN. 


DAYTIME 

DAYTIME 

RAIN 

WHOLLY 

PARTLY 

WITHOUT 

WHOLLY 

PARTLY 

WITHOUT 

SUNNY 

SUNNY 

SUN 

RAINY 

RAINY 

RAIN 

June  25-30,  .... 

I 

I 

4 

I 

3 

2 

2 

July      i-iS, 

2 

7 

6 

3 

7 

5 

2 

July     16-31 

3 

9 

4 

1       I 

9 

6 

5 

Aug.     1-15, 

4 

8 

3 

!     0 

9 

6 

5 

Aug.  16-31, 

5 

6 

5 

0 

5 

II 

I 

Sept.    I-IS, 

6 

4 

5 

0 

3 

12 

I 

Sept.  16-30, 

5 

6 

4 

I 

5 

9 

2 

Oct.        1-2, 

I 

0 

I 

0 

0 

2 

0 

Total, 

27 

41 

32 

6 

41 

53 

ig 

TABLE  IV. 

FREQUENCY  OF  CLOUDS. 


PARTLY 
CLOUDY 


June  25-30, 

July  1-15, 

July  16-31, 

Aug.  I-15, 

Aug.  16-31, 

Sept.  1-15, 

Sept.  16-30, 

Oct.  1-2, 

Total,     .    . 


o 

4 
5 
8 

3 
3 
9 
I 

33 


5 
7 
9 
6 

7 
7 
5 
o 

46 


TABLE  V. 

NUMBER   OF   FOGGY   DAYS    (LABRADOR   ONLY). 


SLIGHT  OR 
DISTANT  FOG 


THICK 

NO 

FOG 

RECORD 

3 

0 

I 

0 

I 

5 

2 

3 

I 

I 





8 

9 

THICK  FOG 
ALL  DAY 


July  14-31, 

Aug.  1-15, 

Aug.  16-31, 

Sept.  1-15, 

Sept.  16-25, 

Total,      . 


Total  days,  less  repetitions  of  Column  5,  67. 


90      -       Report  of  tlw  Broivn-Harvard  Expedition. 

Temperature. — In  spite  of  the  cold  Arctic  current  that 
sweeps  southward  along  these  shores,  the  summer  was,  on 
the  whole,  very  comfortable  and  fairly  uniform  in  tempera- 
ture. The  observations  made  by  the  expedition  suffered 
considerably  in  accuracy  from  the  fact  that  the  thermometers 
used  were  not  wholly  reliable,  and  from  the  impossibility  of 
finding  on  the  ship  any  situation  where  the  instruments  could 
be  wholly  shaded  from  the  sun  and  have  free  circulation  of 
air  about  them.  To  some  extent  the  observations  could  be 
corrected  by  the  aid  of  other  observations  made  at  irregular 
intervals  for  other  purposes  by  Dr.  Daly,  using  a  thoroughly 
reliable  thermometer.  The  results  thus  attained,  while  not 
entirely  accurate,  are  yet  of  some  value  in  judging  the  sum- 
mer temperature  of  the  Labrador  coast.  The  highest  tem- 
perature recorded  by  the  instruments  was  78° ;  the  probably 
highest  actual  (corrected)  temperature  was  72°.  Tlie  lowest 
temperature  was  30.5°.  The  average  was  46°.  There  were 
only  five  days  recorded,  and  probably  only  one  actually,  when 
the  maximum  exceeded  70°.  On  about  33  days,  or  one-third 
of  all,  the  maximum  was  less  than  50°.  On  only  6  days  was 
the  minimum  below  32°,  but  on  45  days  it  was  below  40^^. 
The  average  daily  range  of  temperature  was  13°,  the  highest 
range  25.5°,  the  lowest  4.5°. 

Of  the  temperature  in  the  interior,  north  of  Lake  Mis- 
^assini.  Low  says  that  80°  is  exceeded  on  only  a  few  days 
during  the  summer  season;  that  45°  below  zero  appears  to 
be  the  minimum  winter  temperature  of  most  years;  and  that 
the  mean  temperature  at  the  lake  in  1885  was:  for  June 
53.1°,  for  July  59.9°  (ours  was  46.2°),  and  for  August  56.7° 
(ours  49.4°).  Bryant  found  the  minimum  temperature  for 
his  journey  29°,  the  maximum  82°,  the  mean  minimum  42° 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  91 

(ours  for  about  the  same  period  was  about  41°),  and  the  mean 
maximum  58°  (ours  57°).  Wakeham  (Report  of  Expedition 
in  Steamship  "Diana"  in  i8py),  from  June  2y  to  October  9, 
1897,  found  a  maximum  temperature  of  79°,  a  minimum  of 
27°,  and  a  mean  of  43.1°.  According  to  the  Pilot,  the  mean 
temperature  in  1875  for  the  coast  between  Cape  Porcupine 
and  Nain  was  :  in  July  46.5°  (ours  46.2°),  in  August  50.3° 
(ours  49.4°),  in  September  44.5°  (ours  43.1°). 

Our  daily  temperature-readings  are  not  possessed  of  a 
sufficiently  assured  and  complete  accuracy  to  make  it  desir- 
able to  give  them  in  full.  Grouped  together  by  half-months, 
the  records,  corrected  so  that  they  are  fairly  reliable,  yield 
the  results  seen  in  the  following  table.  The  maxima  and 
minima  were  given  by  a  recording  themometer,  a  modifica- 
tion of  Sixe's  type  (similar  to  the  Miller-Casella  instruments). 
The  daily  range  of  temperature  was  obtained  from  this  instru- 
ment by  determining  the  difference  between  its  recorded 
maximum  for  the  day  and  minimum  for  the  night.  Average 
(i)  was  obtained  by  determining  the  daily  mean  of  the  maxi- 
mum-minimum records.  Average  (2)  was  calculated  from 
three  daily  readings  at  stated  hours.  The  corrections  were 
made  by  comparison  of  the  records  of  the  regularly  used 
thermometers  with  those  occasionally  taken  with  great  care 
by  aid  of  a  fully-tested  and  corrected  centigrade  thermometer 
loaned  to  Dr.  Daly  by  the  United  States  Coast  and  Geodetic 
Survey,  which,  unfortunately,  had  to  be  used  most  of  the  time 
for  other  purposes,  and  hence  was  not  available  for  these 
daily  observations. 

Comparison  of  our  averaged  results  with  those  of  other 
expeditions,  as  quoted  above,  seems  to  indicate  that  our 
degree  of  error  was  not  so  large  as  to  destroy  altogether 
the  value  of  the  table  here  given. 


92 


Report  of  the  Broivn-H award  Expedition. 


TABLE  VI. 

TEMPERATURE. 


June  27-30,  . 

July  1-15.  . 

July  16-31,  . 

Aug.  1-15,  . 

Aug.  16-31,  . 

Sept.  1-15,  . 

Sept.  16-30,  . 

Oct.  1-2,  . 
June  27-Oct.  2, 


MAXIMUM 


64 

68 

68.5 

72 

62 

57 
62 

54 

72 


48.5 

34-5 

34-5 

38 

35-5 

30.5 

30.5 

41-5 

30.5 


DAILY 
RANGE 


II. 2 
12.6 
12-5 

iS-7 
II. 6 
10.9 
12.8 

"5 

12.7 


AVERAGE 

(l) 


55 

46.4 

46.4 

50-4 

47-9 

41 

44.4 

46.3 


AVERAGE 


55.8 
46 
46, 
50 


46.9 


Relative  Humidity. — The  hygrometer  at  our  disposal  for 
the  measurement  of  the  relative  humidity  of  the  air  was  very 
imperfect,  and  its  findings  are  uncertain  as  to  their  value. 
Its  readings,  however,  corrected  by  later  comparison  of 
our  hygrometer  with  another  reliable  instrument,  furnish 
the  following  conclusions,  which  can  be  regarded  as  having 
only  a  relative  value :  The  maximum  humidity  was  100, 
the  minimum  27.5,  the  mean  82.  July  was  most  moist, 
with  a  mean  of  93.  August  was  dryest,  with  76.  September 
had  a  humidity  of  about  80.  Of  our  245  observations,  only 
2,7  were  as  low  as  65,  and  of  these  only  eight  were  as  low  as 
50,  and  only  two  40  or  under;  162  were  80  or  more ;  127  were 
90  or  more. 

Pressure. — The  barometric  pressure  ranged  from  29.28 
to  30.75,  with  a  mean  of  29.82.  Wakeham,  in  1897,  between 
June  27  and  October  9,  experienced  a  range  from  29.31 
to  30.37,  with  a  mean  of  29.82.  On  only  three  occasions  up 
to  September  22  did  the  barometer  rise  above  30.20,  one  of 
these  occasions  covering  three  days.  From  September  22 
on,  it  was  above  30.20  almost  constantly,  dropping  below  it 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D. 


93 


for  two  short  periods  only.     On  six  occasions,  two  of  them 
covering  three  days  each,  it  fell  below  29.50. 

The  records  from  June  27  to  July  15,  inclusive,  are 
from  the  ship's  aneroid,  which  was  neither  compensated  nor 
tested,  and  which  reads  from  i-io  to  3-10  lower  than  the 
other.  The  records  for  these  dates  are  therefore  inclosed  in 
parentheses  in  the  table.  Records  after  July  15  are  from  a 
far  more  reliable  compensated  aneroid  (Thaxter,  Boston), 
reading  to  5,000  feet.  The  latter  was  compared  under  widely 
varying  pressures  with  the  standard  mercurial  at  Cambridge, 
Mass..  from  which  it  was  found  to  vary  but  very  slightly.  It 
was  also  subjected  to  frequent  tests  by  Dr.  Daly  during  the 
trip,  by  means  of  comparisons  with  measured  heights  and 
with  other  barometers,  and  found  to  possess  a  high  degree 
of  accuracy. 


TABLE  VII. 

PRESSURE. 


June  27-30,  . 
July  1-15,  . 
July  16-31,  . 
Aug.  1-15,  . 
Aug.  16-31,  . 
Sept.  1-15,  . 
Sept.  16-30,  . 
Oct.  1-2,  . 
June  27-Oct.  2, 


29.65 
30.00 
30.16 
30.24 
30.38 
30.21 
30-36 
30.75 
30.75 


2954 
29.11 
29.56 
29-43 
29-55 
29.28 
29.32 
30.18 
29.28 


(29.59) 
(29-57) 


;29.59) 

(29-57) 

^9.86 

29.76 

29.97 

29.68 

29-95 

29.82 


III. 
OVERLAND  FROM  HEBRON  TO  NACHVAK. 

Hebron  Harbor  is  situated  near  the  entrance  to  Kan- 
gerdluksoak,  a  narrow  bay  extending  many  miles  to  the  west- 
ward into  the  interior  of  Labrador  at  about  latitude   58° 


94  Report  of  the  Broivn-Harvard  Expedition. 

north.  About  a  hundred  miles  north  of  it  is  Nachvak  Bay, 
also  long-  and  narrow.  Between  them  the  coast  is  much  in- 
dented, containing  a  host  of  small  bays,  and  also  two  of 
larger  size — Saglek*  and  Nullatartok.  At  the  entrance  to  the 
latter  is  situated  Ramah,  the  most  northerly  of  the  Moravian 
Missions  in  Labrador.  The  intervening  country  is  traversed 
never,  probably,  by  white  men,  unless  a  portion  of  it  in  the 
winter  by  dog-sledge,t  but  not  infrequently  by  Eskimos,  who 
have  regular  routes  across  it.  Transportation  across  the 
bays  is  easy  to  secure  because  of  a  summer  fishing  settlement 
of  Eskimos  on  the  shore  of  Saglek,  of  the  mission  station  at 
Ramah.  and  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  post  at  Nach- 
vak. 

These  facts  we  learned  from  Mr.  Townley.  one  of  the 
missionaries  at  Hebron.  Adams  and  the  writer,  eager  to 
do  some  interior  exploration,  decided  to  make  this  trip, 
leaving  the  schooner  to  go  on  when  it  could  to  Nachvak. 
We  secured  as  guide  Amandus,  a  young  Eskimo,  who  knew 
the  way  as  far  as  Ramah.  For  his  services  we  were  to  pay 
fifty  cents  a  day  and  provide  him  with  food,  tobacco,  and 
transportation  in  the  schooner  back  to  Hebron. 

The  morning  of  Sunday,  August  19,  was  devoted  to 
preparations  for  departure.  Of  provisions  we  took  enough 
for  a  week,  consisting  chiefly  of  compressed  emergency 
ration  and  ship's  biscuit.     Our  further  equipment  included 


*  More  commonly  spelled  Saeglek. 

t  The  dog-sledges  for  the  most  part  travel  on  the  ice  along  the  coast. 
One  white  man,  named  Colley,  is  said  to  have  walked,  a  number  of  years 
ago,  along  the  entire  coast  from  far  south  through  Hebron  to  Nachvak, 
and  thence  across  to  George  River.  Nothing  is  known  of  his  ante- 
cedents or  real  purpose;  he  claimed  to  be  in  search  of  a  brother.  He 
was  probably  mentally  unsound,  and  at  George  River  he  committed 
suicide. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  95 

sleeping  bags,  camera,  aneroid  barometer,  thermometer,  and 
rifles.  At  2  p.  m.,  local  time  (forty  minutes  behind  St.  John's 
time),  we  set  out  from  the  schooner.  Our  first  ten  miles 
were  made  in  a  trap-skifif,  westward  through  Kangerdluksoak 
Bay,  in  order  to  get  to  the  rear  of  Mt.  Johannes,  which  rose 
in  our  way  a  little  back  of  the  mission  house.  Our  crew, 
consisting  of  Amandus,  his  brother,  and  two  small  Eskimo 
boys  about  ten  years  old,  were  very  merry,  continually  laugh- 
ing, joking,  and  singing,  and  showing  themselves  sturdy  and 
willing  workers.  We  found  these  excellent  qualities  in 
Amandus  throughout  the  trip.  All  about  the  bay  rose 
mountains,  a  few  of  them  precipitously  from  the  water's  edge. 
Those  near  the  bay  attain  a  height  apparently  of  about  2,500 
feet.  Most  of  them  are  rounded  and  glacier-worn,  with 
numerous  projecting  and  impressive  knobs.  Far  ofif  to  the 
south  a  snowy  peak  was  sometimes  visible  over  the  nearer 
heights,  and  to  the  west  were  other  still  higher  summits. 

At  six  o'clock  we  landed  just  beyond  the  furthest  outlying 
slopes  of  Johannes.  From  this  point  a  low,  wide  valley, 
rising  in  the  middle  not  more  than  50  feet,  stretched  north- 
ward two  and  a  half  miles  to  a  small  bay  called  Iterungnek. 
Shouldering  our  packs,  we  walked  through  this  valley.  Back 
of  us  the  sunset  was  lighting  up  the  hills,  the  nearer  ones 
with  yellow,  the  more  distant  with  violet  hues.  We  soon 
passed  what  our  guide  said  were  Eskimo  houses — rude  walls 
of  stone  built  under  a  projecting  rock  and  forming  two  rough 
shelters.  They  looked  black  and  old,  but  their  sombre  hues 
were  relieved  by  pink  masses  of  fireweed  flowers  growing 
thickly  about  them.  Further  on,  on  the  shore  of  the  bay,  was 
a  group  of  ancient  Eskimo  graves.  We  rounded  the  head  of 
the  bav,  skirted  the  shore  for  a  little  distance  further,  and  at 


96  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

7,35  made  our  camp  for  the  night,  about  four  miles  from  our 
starting  point,  near  a  small  brook  of  clear,  cold  water.  The 
dead  branches  of  two-foot  wdllows  furnished  us  with  firewood, 
and  Amandus  soon  had  our  pots  boiling  over  a  very  diminu- 
tive fireplace.  As  we  crept  into  our  sleeping-bags,  after 
writing  up  our  notes  by  the  dim  firelight,  the  sky  was  brightly 
illuminated  by  a  fine  display  of  northern  lights,  centered 
chiefly  in  the  magnetic  south. 

Tlie  night  was  chilly.  At  4.20,  when  we  arose,  the  tem- 
perature was  47°,  and  it  rapidly  became  warmer.  We  had  a 
flood  of  bright  sunshine  all  day  long.  Our  route  was  up  and 
down  hill  all  the  way.  The  highest  point  was  attained 
toward  noon,  at  1,560  feet.  From  this  elevation  we  caught  a 
glimpse  of  a  group  of  bold  mountains  to  the  north,  across 
Saglek  Bay,  some  of  them  apparently  of  the  so-called  "house- 
roof"  formation.  When  we  stopped  for  lunch  a  little  later, 
the  temperature  was  63°.  In  the  early  afternoon  we  con- 
tinued for  several  miles  at  a  general  elevation  varying  from 
1,050  to  1,160  feet,  and  then  made  a  steep  descent  to  a  river 
flowing  northeastwardly  into  Kajuktok,  a  portion  of  Saglek 
Bay.  A  line  of  hills,  1,300  feet  in  height,  then  lay  before  us, 
between  the  river  and  the  bay.  We  had  but  just  forded  the 
river  and  begun  their  ascent,  when  we  were  fortunate  enough 
to  shoot  a  doe.  Amandus  concealed  the  carcass,  intending 
to  return  for  it  after  he  reached  home  again ;  and  we  took 
with  us  a  leg,  which  added  greatly  to  our  larder  during  the 
rest  of  the  trip.  Then  we  continued  up  the  hill,  walked  on 
for  a  couple  of  miles  along  its  nearly  level  summit,  and  at 
seven  o'clock  stopped  for  the  night  near  its  final  crest.  We 
had  walked  during  the  day  about  16  miles.  Mosquitoes  were 
thick,   and   prevented   sleep   for   some   time.     A   wonderful 


Eskimo    Encampment   at    Pangnertok. 


Ml-uiIjcts  of  llu-   Tarty  on  the  Overland  Trip  from   Heljron  to   Nachvak. 


E.  B.  Dclaharre,  Ph.  D.  97 

auroral  display  was  some  compensation  for  our  wakefulness. 
Its  mild  light  swept  over  the  heavens,  for  the  most  part  taking 
the  form  of  curved  vertical  bands,  changing  and  wavering. 

Our  third  day,  August  21st,  was  another  one  of  bright, 
warm  sunshine.  At  8.30,  just  before  our  start,  the  tempera- 
ture was  63°.  From  the  crest  of  the  hill,  which  we  soon 
reached,  we  had  a  beautiful  view  toward  Saglek  Bay.  Just 
below  us  was  a  wide,  level  stretch,  reaching  from  the  foot  of 
our  slope  to  Pangnertok,  a  branch  of  Saglek.  To  our  right 
a  brook  tumbled  down,  and  to  the  left  a  considerable  river 
emptied  into  the  head  of  Pangnertok.  Beyond  lay  the 
waters  of  the  bay,  from  whose  further  shore  rose  up  the  roof- 
like mountains  we  had  first  seen  the  previous  day,  with  their 
almost  vertical  sides  seamed  with  gullies  and  bare  of  vege- 
tation. On  the  flat  near  the  mouth  of  the  river  was  an  Es- 
kimo encampment.  We  hastened  down  and  reached  it  at 
ten  o'clock.  The  little  settlement  consisted  of  two  canvas 
tents  and  two  skin  topeks.  The  fishermen  who  live  in  them 
are  Hebron  Eskimos,  spending  the  summer  here  for  the  sake 
of  the  trout  in  the  nearby  streams.  They  welcomed  us  with 
much  hospitality,  invited  us  into  their  tents,  and  otherwise 
showed  their  interest  and  good-will.  It  was  nearly  2.30 
before  the  tide  had  risen  sufficiently  to  allow  their  trap-skifif 
to  get  out  of  the  river  into  the  bay.  Then  we  set  out  and 
had  a  delightful  sail,  down  Pangnertok  under  the  steep  face 
of  Mt.  Pinguksoak  on  the  further  shore,  past  Kajuktok,  the 
bay  into  which  empties  the  river  crossed  yesterday,  into  the 
main  bay,  and  across  it  past  the  islands  of  Aulatsivik  and 
Saglek  to  the  northern  shore.  The  scenery  of  the  bay  was 
strikingly  beautiful,  far  surpassing  in  its  wild  grandeur 
any  that  we  had  seen.     The   mountains  were   everywhere 


98  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

crowded  down  close  to  the  water,  from  which  most  of  them 
rose  up  precipitously  except  for  a  short  talus  at  the  bottom; 
and  similar  steep  cuts  extended  up  into  the  tributary  valleys. 
The  heights  varied  probably  from  3,500  to  5,000  feet.  We 
sailed  and  rowed  for  four  hours  through  this  gorgeous 
scenery,  under  a  sky  entirely  clear  except  for  a  few  high, 
fleecy  clouds.  Our  Eskimo  crew  were  friendly  and  inter- 
esting. At  the  end  they  demanded  but  one  plug  of  tobacco 
apiece  for  their  services.  We  landed  at  6.30,  and  were  soon 
again  on  the  march.  We  had  not  proceeded  far,  however, 
before  we  sighted  two  caribou,  a  doe  and  a  fawn.  We 
dropped  our  packs  and  went  in  pursuit;  but  darkness  inter- 
vened before  we  could  overtake  them,  and  so  they  happily 
escaped.  A  hard  walk  through  soft  bog  and  over  rough 
talus  brought  us  back  to  our  packs,  where  we  camped  for  the 
night.  The  auroral  display  was  the  finest  we  had  seen.  It 
covered  almost  the  entire  sky  and  gave  a  light  almost  as 
brilliant  as  moonlight.  There  was  a  great  variety  in  the  pat- 
terns it  formed,  with  an  uneasy,  restless  play  and  quivering 
of  the  bands,  as  though  a  light  wind  were  blowing  wnth  enor- 
mous rapidity  through  a  bright,  thin  mist. 

On  Wednesday,  the  22d,  we  arose  at  five  o'clock.  A 
thin,  chill  fog  was  in  the  air,  and  after  a  little  it  began  to 
sprinkle.  At  6.20  the  temperature  was  45°.  At  6.30  we 
were  started  on  our  fourth  day's  journey.  The  valley  that 
lay  before  us,  running  up  into  the  mountains  northward  from 
Saglek  Bay,  was  wide  and  level  for  the  first  two  miles,  formed 
of  alluvial  deposits,  and  then  ascended  gradually  in  a  narrow 
line  between  steep  slopes  of  talus.  Its  bottom  formed  the 
bed  of  a  mountain  torrent.  Its  eastern  border  was  a  single 
huge  mass  whose  summit  towered  probably  four  to  five  thou- 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  99 

sand  feet  above  the  bay.  On  the  west  were  two  peaks,  pre- 
senting smoothly  curving  faces  toward  the  valley.  Their 
great  bases  were  somewhat  convex  vertically  also,  and  were 
distinctly  marked  by  alternating  strata  of  different  material, 
as  if  they  were  of  sedimentary  origin.  At  the  head  of  the 
valley  was  another  peak,  similar  to  those  on  the  west. 

We  passed  through  the  level  plain,  by  a  couple  of  small 
lakes,  and  then  climbed  slowly  up  the  valley.  Our  way  was 
sometimes  over  moss  and  soil,  but  more  often  over  broken 
heaps  of  rocks  of  all  sizes,  piled  in  confused  masses.  At  the 
height  of  980  feet  we  reached  a  very  peculiar  formation. 
Between  low  cliff  walls,  thirty  or  forty  feet  apart,  a  smooth 
floor  of  flat-topped,  level  boulders  had  been  formed,  descend- 
ing in  a  series  of  terraces  for  two  or  three  hundred  feet.  It 
was  doubtless  formed  by  the  pressure  of  slowly  moving  ice 
constrained  within  rigid  walls.  The  surface  was  as  flat  and 
almost  as  compact  as  that  of  a  macadamized  road.  A  little 
beyond  it  the  valley,  which  had  been  trending  true  north  and 
south,  turned  sharply  to  the  right.  Just  beyond  the  curve 
we  stopped  for  lunch,  about  seven  miles  from  our  starting 
fKDint. 

Our  surroundings  were  marvelously  beautiful.  All 
about  us  towered  the  massive  bare  cliffs  of  the  mountains. 
At  the  bend  of  the  valley  a  foaming  stream  of  water  de- 
scended in  almost  vertical  falls  and  rapids  from  a  height  far 
above.  Another  stream  came  down  the  upper  stretch  of  the 
valley  into  which  we  had  turned.  At  our  feet  lay  a  deep, 
clear  pool,  fed  from  a  snowbank  lying  between  narrow  walls 
of  rock.  Here  we  were  well  sheltered  from  the  wind,  which 
had  been  strong  and  chilling  all  the  morning.  While  we 
were  lunching  the  sky  cleared  and  the  sun  came  out,  and  the 


loo  Report  of  the  Broivn-H award  Expedition. 

rest  of  the  clay  was  warmer  and  more  pleasant.  At  12.20  the 
temperature  was  53°,  and  the  barometer  indicated  a  height 
of  1,010  feet. 

On  resuming  our  journey,  we  deserted  the  valley  and 
attacked  the  mountain  to  the  north  directly.  First  we  scaled 
a  precipitous  cliff  at  a  break  in  its  wall,  then  mounted  over 
a  steep,  soft  talus  of  shale,  and  thus  gained  a  considerable 
level  of  smooth  soil.  Beyond  the  latter  we  climbed  another 
steep  wall,  crossed  a  plain  of  shale  fragments,  climbed  along 
a  gradually  mounting  series  of  smooth,  slanting  rocks,  gained 
and  passed  over  a  long,  ascending  bank  of  snow  with  a  pre- 
cipitous drop  at  its  right,  then  crossed  a  long  series  of  small 
serrate  ridges,  and  finally  attained  the  pinnacle  of  the  pass, 
2,150  feet  above  the  sea.  The  summits  that  had  become 
familiar  to  us  along  our  route  thus  far  still  towered  above  us, 
probably  to  double  our  own  elevation.  Beyond,  to  the 
north,  lay  a  new  series,  extending  as  far  as  we  could  see. 

Our  course  next  lay  down  through  a  wide  valley,  bare 
and  rocky,  all  ridges  and  huge  loose  boulders,  with  high, 
bare-sided  peaks  rising  out  of  it  on  all  sides.  Once  we 
passed  a  picturesque  cascade,  two  separate  bands  of  water 
leaping  over  the  upper  rocks  and  then  joining  into  one  for 
another  plunge.  Within  an  hour  we  had  descended  to>  1,580 
feet,  whence  our  work  was  alternately  up  and  down  over  simi- 
lar series  of  boulders.  To  these  succeeded  a  short  grassy 
level.  Then  we  climbed  up  diagonally  over  a  great  field  of 
snow,  at  whose  base  the  boulders  were  flattened  out  into  a 
smooth  floor  like  the  one  we  had  seen  in  the  valley  of  the 
morning.  From  the  top  of  the  snow  drift  we  crossed  a  long 
level,  covered  over  with  small  fragments  of  sharp,  broken 
slate,  at  a  height  of  about  1,400  feet.     Beyond  that  a  long, 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  loi 

gentle  descent,  cut  across  by  two  or  three  rivers  flowing 
through  deep  gorges,  led  toward  a  fertile-looking  valley  run- 
ning east  and  west.  One  of  the  river  gorges  had  deep  snow 
drifts  lining  each  side,  with  high,  vertical  walls  facing  each 
other.  Another  was  completely  filled  in  with  snow  and  ice, 
under  which  the  river  forced  its  way  through  a  tunnel.  The 
roof  of  the  tunnel  made  a  smooth,  easy  bridge  for  our 
■crossing. 

When  we  reached  the  bottom  oi  the  new  valley,  whose 
narrow  river  flows  eastward  into  Sorviluk  Bay,  we  forded  the 
stream  and  made  our  camp  on  its  further  bank,  just  below  a 
picturesque  waterfall.  Our  height  here  was  800  feet.  It 
was  then  6.15,  and  we  calculated  that  we  had  walked  about 
16  miles  since  morning. 

We  had  much  difficulty  in  finding  firewood,  and  a  strong, 
chilly  wind  was  blowing,  so  that  our  supper  was  prepared  and 
eaten  under  conditions  of  considerable  discomfort.  The 
sunset,  as  usual,  was  not  brilliant.  There  was  little  or  no 
aurora.  The  mountains  were  all  capped  with  clouds.  Espe- 
cially striking  was  one  noble  mass  that  lay  just  east  of  the 
middle  part  of  our  afternoon's  route,  with  a  huge  curved 
amphitheatre  on  his  side  toward  us,  and  a  crown  of  fleecy 
softness  resting  on  his  majestic  head  and  streaming  off  far 
beyond  it  toward  the  south.  A  broad  peak  lying  east  of  us, 
and  north  of  our  valley,  was  doubtless  Mt.  Blow-me-down. 

The  night  was  rendered  uncomfortable  by  the  heavy 
wind.  It  was  still  blowing  hard  when  we  arose  at  6.20.  At 
7.35  the  temperature  was  40°.  An  hour  later  we  began  the 
fifth  day's  march.  It  was  first  an  easy  climb  over  slaty 
ground  up  to  a  general  level  of  about  1,200  feet,  over  which, 
with  slight  dips  and  rises,  we  marched  for  several  hours. 


102  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

Our  progress  was  slow,  and  we  were  chilled  by  rain  and  fog 
and  by  a  piercing  northerly  wind.  At  one  point  we  passed  a 
large  lake,  at  an  elevation  of  about  i,ooo  feet,  full  of  little 
islands  and  jutting  peninsulas,  and  stretching  away  appar- 
ently for  several  miles  into  the  fog.  The  slate  deposits  con- 
tinued, and  in  a  few  places  we  found  sandstones  and 
conglomerates  or  breccias.  We  finally  descended  from  this 
plateau  into  a  gorge  at  a  height  of  850  feet,  then  climbed 
rather  steeply  against  a  bitterly  cold  wind,  turned  slightly 
westward,  and  at  noon  stopped  for  lunch  in  a  gully  where  we 
were  sheltered  from  the  wind,  at  a  height  of  2,000  feet.  A 
light  snow  fell  about  us,  the  temperature  was  2>7° ,  ^i^d  we 
had  to  shiver  vigorously  to  keep  warm.  Our  gully  was  one 
of  the  level-floored  formations  that  had  interested  us  the  day 
before.  We  crossed  it,  climbed  up  slightly  higher,  and  then 
began  to  descend  slowly,  having  passed  the  summit  of  the 
pass.  At  our  left  lay  a  long  valley,  far  below  us,  stretching 
ofT  toward  the  western  end  of  Ramah  Bay,  which  soon  came 
into  sight.  A  succession  of  curving  summits  lay  before  us, 
on  the  right  of  the  valley,  and  along  the  flanks  of  these  we 
marched,  keeping  at  a  high  level.  The  summits  were  all 
concealed  in  the  fog.  We  continued  walking  over  long 
reaches  of  slate,  which  finally  became  smoother.  At  4.30  we 
stopped  to  take  a  photograph  of  the  picturesque  grouping 
of  mountains  across  the  bay.  Three  sharp  peaks  lay  to  the 
right,  and  broader,  more  rounded  ones  rose  massively  fur- 
ther west,  with  the  waters  of  the  bay  at  their  feet.  Soon  after 
we  stopped  again  to  photograph  the  mission  house.  Back 
of  it  lay  a  mountain,  ending  toward  the  east  in,  two  abrupt 
cliffs,  their  feet  bathed  in  the  waters  at  the  entrance  of  the 
bay,  the  nearer  one  bright  in  sunlight  that  struggled  through 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  103 

the  thick  clouds,  the  other  curving  behind  it  in  deep  shadow. 
From  these  cHffs  banks  of  thin  fog  were  blown  out,  against 
which  a  rainbow  was  formed,  arching  from  the  mission  house 
entirely  across  the  mouth  of  the  bay.  Thence  we  went 
straight  down  the  remaining  800  feet  or  thereabouts,  reached 
the  beach  at  5.30,  and  fired  two  shots  to  summon  a  boat  from 
the  other  side.  Our  distance  thus  far  for  the  day  we  esti- 
mated at  about  17  miles.  While  we  were  waiting,  Adams 
examined  the  rock  formations  near  the  shore.  He  found 
them  everywhere  composed  of  slate,  containing  quartz  veins 
and  much  iron  pyrites. 

A  couple  of  small  Eskimo  boys  soon  appeared  in  a  boat, 
and  rowed  us  across  the  mile-wide  bay  to  the  mission  house. 
We  were  warmly  welcomed  by  the  missionaries,  who  had  been 
wondering  greatly  over  our  approach.  They  were  so  urgent 
in  their  hospitality,  so  intelHgent  and  sympathetic  in  their 
interest  in  our  investigations,  and  the  warm  and  comfortable 
shelter  they  gave  us  was  in  such  welcome  contrast  with  the 
conditions  of  the  previous  days,  that  we  remained  with  them 
until  the  middle  of  the  following  afternoon. 

At  Ramah  we  secured  an  additional  guide,  Philippus  by 
name,  for  the  rest  of  the  way.  We  left  the  mission  at  2.20 
p.  M.  of  August  24,  were  rowed  about  four  miles  to  near 
the  head  of  Nullatartok  or  Ramah  Bay,  and  thence  started 
again  northward.  Our  route  was  at  first  up  easy,  grassy 
slopes,  then  westward  around  a  high  crest,  with  one  of  the 
sharp  peaks  we  had  seen  in  a  group  of  three  the  day  before 
blocking  our  direct  way  to  the  north.  We  circled  the  latter, 
gradually  rising,  with  a  few  short  descents,  into  wide  and 
fertile  valleys  adorned  with  lakes  or  watercourses.  We  were 
still  on  shaly  ground  until  toward  the  last,  when  we  had  a 


104  Report  of  the  Brozvn-H arvard  Expedition. 

long  stretch  of  marching  over  heaps  of  rocks.  Toward 
seven  o'clock  v^'e  reached  a  little  oasis  in  this  sea  of  stones, 
at  an  elevation  of  1,530  feet,  and  stopped  to  camp  for  the 
night.  There  was  no  wood  in  the  vicinity.  Our  guides 
gathered  heaps  of  the  four-cornered  heath-like  growth  of  the 
Cassiope  tetragotm,  which,  being  somewhat  resinous,  made 
a  smoky  and  ill-burning  fire,  over  which  we  slowly  cooked 
our  supper  of  venison,  emergency  ration,  and  tea.  At  8.15 
the  temperature  was  39*^.  Our  beds  were  rather  stony,  and 
the  fog  was  settling  thickly  around  us  as  we  crept  into  them. 

On  the  following  day  we  were  up  at  six.  The  tempera- 
ture was  then  37°.  Disgusted  with  our  experience  of  the 
evening  before,  we  made  no  fire,  but  breakfasted  on  raw 
ration,  and  started  off  at  6.30.  For  some  distance  we  trav- 
eled at  a  general  level  of  about  1,600  feet,  between  the  re- 
maining two  of  the  three  sharp  peaks.  Thence  we  began  to 
descend  through  a  long  valley  leading  to  Nachvak  Bay,  be- 
tween a  series  of  summits  flanking  either  side.  The  first 
nine  miles  of  our  way  were  over  stones;  the  succeeding  four 
miles  were  more  grassy.  At  noon  we  reached  the  shore  of 
a  bight,  called  Tinutyarvik  or  Shoal  Water  Cove,  projecting 
from  the  bay  southward.  Finding  plenty  of  driftwood  here, 
we  stopped  for  two  hours  and  cooked  a  bountiful  lunch,  using 
up  the  last  of  our  venison. 

Our  guide  had  hoped  to  find  Eskimos  encamped  in  this 
bight,  who  might  take  us  in  boats  to  Ford's.  There  was  no 
trace  of  them,  however,  and  we  were  obliged  to  travel  along 
the  bay  westward  until  we  should  find  them,  or,  failing  that, 
arrive  opposite  Ford's  house.  We  rounded  the  first  head- 
land, walking  near  the  shore,  covering  a  distance  of  three 
miles,  to  a  second  bight.     Finding  no  one  there,  we  crossed 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  105 

a  river,  climbed  the  hillside  west  of  it,  attaining-  1,100  feet, 
marched  along  between  the  hilltops  for  three  miles,  de- 
scended again  to  the  shore  at  a  point  about  four  miles  from 
the  last  bight,  and  then  continued  for  three  miles  along  the 
shore.  Here  we  entered  a  third  deep  bight,  called  Ivitak 
or  Brick  Bight,  the  last  mile  being  a  stony  torture  on  account 
of  our  weary  limbs  and  sore  feet.  At  6.30  we  came  to  a 
freshly  deserted  camp.  We  afterwards  learned  that  the  Es- 
kimos we  sought  had  left  there  that  very  day.  So  our  last 
hope  of  getting  aboard  the  "Brave"  by  night  was  proved 
vain.  We  therefore  encamped  on  the  spot,  cooked  a  supper 
of  ration  and  tea,  and  roasted  some  dried  caplin  that  we  had 
found  on  the  shore.  There  were  numerous  black  flies  about, 
but  they  fortunately  seemed  to  prefer  the  abundant  refuse  of 
the  Eskimo  camp  to  ourselves.  During  our  entire  stay  in 
Labrador  we  had  hardly  any  trouble  from  the  flies.  Mos- 
quitoes had  been  a  terrible  nuisance  for  about  a  month,  but 
we  had  our  last  unpleasant  experience  with  them  during  the 
night  of  August  20. 

On  Sunday,  August  26,  the  eighth  and  last  day  of  our 
march,  we  arose  at  early  daybreak,  a  little  before  five  o'clock. 
A  white  frost,  the  first  of  the  season,  covered  the  grass  about 
us.  At  6.15,  when  we  started,  the  temperature  was  ;^7°. 
The  sun  was  just  lighting  the  tops  of  the  hills  east  of  us, 
ushering  in  a  splendid  day.  After  proceeding  to  the  head 
of  the  bight  and  crossing  the  delta,  of  a  river  that  came  down 
through  a  narrow  valley  between  long  series  of  hills,  we 
climbed  the  hillside  west  of  it.  Our  route  lay  for  several 
miles  on  high  ground,  gradually  rising  in  the  valleys  between 
the  summits  to  successive  higher  levels  until  we  were  at 
1,300  feet.     Then  we  went  down  rapidly  to  the  shore,  coming 


io6  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

out  onto  a  sandy  point,  near  which  a  tumultuous  brook 
foamed  down  the  hillside.  We  were  then  just  opposite 
Ford's  house,  and  the  "Brave"  lay  moored  in  the  shelter  of 
a  projecting  point  near  it.  Our  distance  for  the  morning" 
was  about  eight  miles,  and  we  came  to  the  end  of  our  long 
tramp  at  10.15.  We  gladly  threw  down  our  packs,  fired  two 
shots,  and  soon  again  two  more,  were  answered  by  a  flash 
from  the  ship,  and  then  were  soon  again  on  board. 

It  thus  took  us  just  seven  days  to  complete  our  trip. 
Our  progress  was  naturally  slow.  The  walking  was,  for  the 
most  part,  over  loosely  aggregated  heaps  of  stone  that  filled 
the  narrow  valleys  and  covered  the  mountain  tops ;  our  packs 
were  fairly  heavy;  and  our  thin  seal-hide  native  boots, 
adopted  because  of  the  much-worn  hobnails  of  our  own 
shoes,  were  ill-adapted  to  so  long  and  rough  a  journey  and 
needed  frequent  repairing.  We  estimated  the  distance  that 
we  had  traversed  as  about  30  miles  by  water  and  90  to  95  by 
land.  The  distance  from  our  landing  place  on  Kangerdluk- 
soak  (Hebron)  Bay  to  Saglek  Bay  is  about  22  miles;  from 
the  north  shore  of  Saglek  Bay  to  Ramah  very  nearly  35 
miles;  from  Ramah  to  Nachvak  Bay,  at  the  point  where  we 
came  out,  nearly  20  miles;  and  along  the  shore  of  Nachvak 
to  a  point  opposite  Ford's  house  about  18  miles.  The 
highest  point  we  reached  was  2,150  feet  above  the  sea.  We 
cHmbed  up  in  all  and  again  descended  some  11,000  to  12,000 
feet.  In  its  general  topographical  appearance  and  formation 
the  country  we  passed  over  was  of  two  kinds:  surrounding 
the  bays  on  which  Hebron  and  Ramah  are  situated,  the 
mountains  rise  more  gradually  and  to  lesser  heights ;  on  the 
borders  of  the  fiords  of  Saglek  and  Nachvak  they  are  very 
lofty,  and  rise  often  in  perpendicular  cliffs  directly  out  of  the 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  107 

water  and  the  tributary  valleys.  In  both  sections  they  are 
piled  up  in  picturesque  and  confusing  abundance.  Their 
summits  and  slopes  are  worn  and  broken.  About  Saglek 
and  Nachvak  they  are  more  wild  and  rugged.  In. the  slate 
region  about  Ramah  they  have  a  softer  tone  and  gentler 
slopes.  Geologically  also  we  traversed  sections  of  different 
nature  and  origin:  at  the  extremes  of  our  route  the  rock 
formations  are  of  gneiss  cut  by  dykes  of  trap — the  character- 
istic rock-materials  of  the  country ;  in  the  middle  section,  be- 
ginning about  seven  miles  north  of  Saglek  and  reaching 
beyond  Ramah  for  a  distance  of  at  least  four  or  five  miles, — 
a  total  distance  of  not  far  from  30  miles, — the  rocks  are  sedi- 
mentary, being  for  the  most  part  of  slate,  with  ocasional 
sandstone  and  breccias.  Since  no  fossils  have  yet  been  dis- 
covered in  these  deposits,  their  age  is  still  undetermined.* 


IV. 

NACHVAK    BAY    AND    THE    ASCENT    OF    MOUNT    FAUNCE. 

Nachvak  Bayf  is  a  deep  and  wild  fiord  not  far  from  Cape 
Chidley,  the  northern  extreme  of  Labrador,  at  the  entrance 
to  Hudson  Strait.  Probably  there  is  no  wilder  and  grander 
scenery  anywhere  along  the  coasts  of  the  two  Americas  than 
that  afforded  by  the  lofty  mountains  and  dark,  narrow  bays 
in  this  vicinity.  I  should  imagine  that  the  famous  fiords 
of  Norway  must  present  a  very  similar  appearance.     This 


*  A.  P.  Low  (Annual  Report,  Geol.  Surv.  Can.,  Vol.  VIII,  1896, 
p.  249  L),  on  the  authority  of  Dr.  Bell,  calls  them  Huronian  schists. 

t  Compare  Daly's  sketch-map  of  Nachvak  Bay,  reproduced  here- 
with. 


io8  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

has  the  advantage  of  being  more  accessible  to  us  Americans, 
and  must  surely  be  as  fully  worthy  of  a  visit.  Tlie  bay  ex- 
tends in  a  narrow  body  for  about  20  miles  inland,  and  then 
divides  into  two  graceful  arms  that  proceed  in  south-trend- 
ing curves  for  six  or  eight  miles  further.  We  sounded  its 
cold  waters  in  several  places  and  found  them  attaining  a 
depth  of  over  a  hundred  fathoms.  High  mountains  surround 
it  in  intricate  clusters,  crowding  close  down  to  its  shores  t)n 
every  side.  At  places  they  rise  in  perpendicular  clififs  di- 
rectly out  of  the  water ;  our  anchorage  was  in  the  shadow  of 
one  possessed  of  the  impressive  height  of  2,500  feet.  There 
are  no  trees  to  veil  the  wonderful  beauty  of  these  huge 
masses,  though  an  abundant  and  many-hued  low  vegetation 
clothes  their  lower  slopes. 

The  northern  shore  is  comparatively  featureless  and  un- 
indented.  Only  two  coves  are  known  to  afiford  safe  an- 
chorage, on  one  of  which  is  the  post  of  the  trading  company. 
Elsewhere  the  cliffs  drop  steeply  under  water  to  a  great 
depth.  The  south  shore  has  a  larger  number  of  reentrant 
bights,  into  each  of  which  flows  a  stream  of  goodly  size,  fed 
from  the  lofty  heights  to  the  south  and  tumbling  through  a 
bouldery  trough  until  it  spreads  into  the  U-shaped  alluvial 
plain  at  its  mouth.  In  several  of  these  bights  it  is  possible 
to  find  holding-ground  for  anchors  and  protection  from 
heavy  blows.  A  prominent  scenic  feature  of  the  north  shore 
is  a  considerable  waterfall,  about  two  and  a  half  miles  east  of 
Ford's  house.  It  begins  at  a  height  of  700  feet  to  leap  down 
in  short  cascades  with  long  reaches  between.  From  the 
height  of  525  feet  there  is  a  continuous  series  of  cascades, 
and  all  this  part  of  the  fall  is  visible  from  the  middle  of  the 
bay.     Its  final  almost  vertical  plunge  is  375  feet  in  height. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  109 

Steep  up  from  the  shores  of  the  bay  rises  a  series  of 
mountains,  which  attain  very  nearly  the  greatest  height  of 
any  in  all  of  Labrador.  North  of  them,  on  the  coast,  no 
great  distance  beyond,  and  northwest  in  the  interior,  are  the 
very  highest  of  all,  the  highest,  in  fact,  of  any  mountains  of 
the  Atlantic  coast  of  North  America.  They  form  two  classes 
in  their  general  formation,  the  two  often  mingling,  sometimes 
in  dififerent  portions  of  the  same  mountains.  Some  rise 
steeply,  with  talus-covered  sides  except  on  the  higher  parts, 
to  long,  sharp,  dentate  ridges.  The  others  have  more  gently 
curving  sides  and  rounded  tops,  though  one  or  more  of 
their  faces  may  be  cut  away,  leaving  perpendicular  cliffs,  often 
of  great  height.  The  rounded  form  predominates  on  the 
immediate  shore  of  the  bay,  the  former  lying  further  back 
from  its  waters.*  The  curves  and  outlines  of  the  more 
rounded  are  usually  of  great  simplicity,  yet  possess  a  massive 
and  vigorous  majesty  and  grandeur.  They  often  hide  wild 
gorges  in  their  folds,  where  torrents  dash  down  the  thinly- 
soiled  slopes ;  and  their  cHffs,  some  of  them  of  great  height, 
are  wonderfully  imposing.  At  a  distance  the  rounded  sides 
and  summits  of  these  mountains  appear  smooth  and  easily 
accessible,  in  great  contrast  with  the  more  rugged  outlines 

*"A11  agree  in  emphasizing  the  wild,  ragged,  alpine  nature  of  the 
relief.  From  end  to  end  of  the  (Torngat)  range,  razor-back  ridges  and 
horns  abound.  These  are  separated  by  lower  rounded  hills  and  yet  more 
conspicuously  by  numerous  deep  fiords  and  glaciated  valleys  or  glens, 
the  near  relatives  of  the  fiords.  ...  It  would  be  a  mistake,  however, 
to  attribute  a  glacial  origin  to  the  rounded  profiles  of  many  of  the 
dome-shaped  mountains  that  alternate  with  the  horns.  The  former  are 
to  be  regarded  as  the  result  of  atmospheric  erosion  and  their  slopes  as 
the  graded  surfaces  of  mountains  normally  subdued  to  relatively  tame 
form  by  that  agency.  The  same  stage  of  development  awaits  their  more 
acuminate  neighbors." — Daly's  Geology,  p.  224. 


no  Report  of  the  Broivn-Harvard  Expedition. 

of  the  sharper  peaks.  But  on  closer  view  their  rocky  frame- 
work is  seen  to  project  everywhere,  bare  and  greatly  weath- 
ered, while  their  higher  portions  are  concealed  under  a  roug-h 
covering  of  the  angular  fragments  into  which  their  surfaces 
have  been  rent  by  the  powerful  forces  that  are  at  work  in  their 
slow  transformation. 

At  the  entrance  to  the  bay  are  two  bold  headlands, 
rising  outward  to  the  higher  summits  of  Mt.  Razorback  on 
the  north  and  Gulch  Cape  on  the  south.  Thence  inland, 
high,  often  clifT-broken  mountains  closely  line  either  shore.* 
The  highest  range  occurs  probably  somewhat  westward  of 
the  furthest  waters  of  the  bay.  It  is  penetrated  by  several 
rivers,  flowing  eastward  and  draining  into  Ramah,  Nachvak, 
and  other  bays.  Those  reaching  Nachvak  Bay  turn  after 
piercing  the  mountain  range,  and  thus  flow  into  the  bay  from 
north  and  south  as  well  as  west.  These  rivers  have  their 
rise  in  a  comparative  lowland,  covered  by  an  extensive  forest, 
some  fifteen  to  twenty  miles  from  Nachvak  waters.  Beyond 
this  low  watershed  is  a  gentle  slope  westward  toward  Ungava 
Bay,  cut  by  a  river  large  enough  to  be  navigable  by  small 
boats. 

The  alluvial  plains  on  the  shore  at  the  ends  of  the  val- 
leys, which  are  never  of  any  great  extent,  and  the  valley 
sides  and  bottoms  wherever  they  are  not  filled  in  with  coarse 
detritus,  are  thickly  clothed  with  vegetation.  Grass,  moss, 
curlew,  berry-bearing  Ericacece,  are  mingled  together  in  a 
continuous  complex-patterned  carpet,  rich  in  color  and  in 
intricacy  of  design.     Mingled  with  the  greens  and  autumnal 


*The  statements  that  follow  in  this  paragraph  are  on  the  authority 
of  George  Ford. 


\ 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  m 

reds  of  their  leaves,  and  with  the  greens,  reds,  browns,  and 
grays  of  the  mosses  and  lichens,  are  the  isolated  bits  of  yellow 
of  arnica  and  golden-rod,  the  blue  of  the  harebell,  the  pink  of 
lychnis  and  of  the  fireweed.  Willows  growing  to  the  height 
of  seven  or  eight  feet  and  less,  and  birches  and  alders  of  lower 
growth,  thickly  line  the  borders  of  ponds  and  streams. '  On 
the  lower  parts  of  the  mountains  the  same  growths  are  intri- 
cately interspersed  with  the  protruding  masses  of  rock,  which 
themselves  vary  in  color  among  the  softer  and  harsher  tones 
of  black,  brown,  and  gray.  The  ascendancy  in  this  com- 
bination of  struggling  life  and  rigid  earth  is  gradually  gained 
by  the  latter  as  the  elevation  becomes  greater,  until,  toward 
the  shattered  tops,  there  occur  only  rare,  isolated  specimens 
of  the  more  ambitious  and  hardy  plants.  The  steep  cliffs  and 
talus  grades  are  destitute  of  any  trace  of  vegetation,  but  in 
many  places,  especially  toward  the  upper  ends  of  the  two 
arms  of  the  bay,  they  show  a  magnificent  wealth  and  variety 
of  coloration,  in  which  shades  of  red  and  yellow  occur  among 
the  more  frequent  tones  of  brown  and  gray. 

In  spite  of  their  height,  none  of  these  summits  are  buried 
beneath  the  weight  of  eternal  snows,  and  no  glaciers  plow 
through  the  foldings  of  their  sides.  Scattered  banks  and 
patches  of  the  previous  winter's  snow  linger  here  and  there 
at  all  heights,  but  they  constitute  a  comparatively  subordi- 
nate motif  in  the  total  harmony  of  the  landscape.  At  this 
season,  freshly-fallen  snow  may  at  any  time  cover  the  moun- 
tain tops.  Water,  also,  except  for  the  great  bays  and  the 
blue  stretch  of  the  ocean  itself  when  these  are  visible,  forms 
but  a  minor  element  of  scenic  beauty.  The  rivers  are  usually 
hidden  among  the  irregular  curvings  of  the  mountains,  or 
conceal    themselves    among    the    boulders    of    their    beds. 


V 

V- 


\ 


112  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

Where  the  valleys  widen  sufficiently,  they  hold  small  ponds 
or  lakes,  but  this  is  of  comparatively  rare  occurrence.  Only 
an  occasional  beck  streaks  the  hillsides  with  a  line  of  foam. 
Thus  the  softening  influence  of  water,  snow,  and  vegetation 
play  a  minimal  part  in  determining  the  appearance  of  this 
country,  and  leave  unveiled  the  beauty  of  its  huge  masses. 
On  this  account  the  absence  of  forests  is  a  boon  rather  than 
a  detraction.  The  grandest  scenery  of  Labrador  begins  with 
the  ragged  shapes  of  the  Kiglapait  near  Port  Manvers,  con- 
tinues nobly  with  the  groups  at  Cape  Mugford,  and  cul- 
minates in  a  magnificent  climax  at  Nachvak. 

Nowhere  can  the  student  of  geology  and  of  the  causes 
of  scenery  better  study  his  problems  than  here  where  nature 
lays  bare  the  manner  of  her  working,  without  concealing  its 
stages  and  effects  under  the  hindering  veil  of  snow  or  of 
vegetation.  Clear  and  sharp  stand  out  the  evidences  and 
nature  of  glacial  action  ages  ago,  and  of  the  alternate  sinking 
and  rising  of  the  land  with  reference  to  the  level  of  the  sea. 
Beautifully  plain  appear  the  effects  of  denudation  by  frost 
and  water,  as  seen  in  the  shattered  summits,  the  forms  of  the 
mountain  masses,  the  accumulations  of  talus,  and  the  great 
curves  and  complexity  of  the  valleys.  Standing  on  one  of 
these  heights,  one  can  almost  trace  out  the  whole  history  of 
the  diversification  of  the  original  simple  ridges  into  the  in- 
tricate system  of  varied  peaks  and  valleys  that  now  exist. 

Evidences  of  the  former  glaciation  of  this  country  are 
abundant.*      Dr.  Daly  established  the  fact  that  the  main  ice- 


*  Low  {Annual  Report  Geol.  Surv.  Can.,  Vol.  VIII,  1896,  p.  309  L)  re- 
ports, on  the  authority  of  his  own  investigations  and  those  of  Dr.  Bell, 
that  there  was  no  glaciation  at  Nachvak  above  340  feet. 


Sketch  Map  of  Nachvak  Bay. 
Scale:    6  miles  to  i  inch.      Contour  interval:    500  feet. 
Reprinted    from    R.    A.    Daly's    Geology    of    the    Northeast    Coast    of 
Labrador,   by   permission    of   the    Museum    of   Comparative    Zoology   at 
Harvard  College. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  113 

sheet  did  not  reach  above  the  level  of  2,100  feet  above  the 
sea,  though  smaller  local  glaciers  existed  in  all  the  side  val- 
leys. Below  that  height  he  found  all  the  marks  of  former 
glacial  activity:  ice-worn  boulders,  roches  montonnees,  striae, 
terminal  and  lateral  moraines :  while  above  it  these  marks  are 
absent.  He  found  also  over  twenty  hanging  valleys,  some 
of  them  magnificent  examples  of  this  feature  of  the  ice  work. 
The  movement  of  the  ice-sheet  followed  the  trend  of  the  bay 
and  of  the  adjacent  valleys.  He  discovered  here  also,  as  in 
previous  places,  raised  beaches  and  similar  results  of  the  post- 
glacial submergence  of  the  country  underneath  the  sea.  The 
highest  beach  line  is  at  about  250  feet  above  the  bay.* 

The  bay  itself  is  a  typical  fiord,  in  that  it  is  deeper  within 
than  at  its  entrance.  Dr.  Daly  made  over  twenty  soundings 
in  it,  going  over  45  miles  in  a  small  boat  for  the  purpose,  and 
testing  all  its  principal  points.  The  greatest  depth  he  found 
is  no  fathoms,  and  it  is  thus  the  deepest  measured  bay  in 
Labrador. 

Unfortunately,  the  days  we  passed  at  Nachvak  were 
almost  all  of  them  heavily  overcast,  w4th  thick  clouds  low 
down  and  concealing  the  tops  of  the  higher  summits,  so  that 
it  was  profitless  to  attempt  to  scale  them.  We  climbed  and 
measured  several  peaks,  however,  and  the  following  pages 
give  an  accountf  of  our  chief  ascent. 

On  a  narrow  alluvial  fiat  on  the  northern  shore,  just 
where  the  two  arms  of  the  bay  diverge,  are  the  house  and 
stores  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  which  carries  on  a 
flourishing  trade  in  furs  and  fish  with  the  native  Eskimos, 
George  Ford,  the  agent,  has  lived  for  over  twenty  years  with 

*  Low  {loc.  cit.)  places  the  upper  limit  at  i8o  feet. 
t  Reprinted  in  part  from  the  Brunonian,  May,  1901. 


114  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

his  family  in  this  soHtary  place,  far  away  from  his  nearest 
neighbors,  the  Moravian  missionaries  at  Ramah  to  the  south, 
and  rarely  cheered  by  the  sight  of  visitors.  Closely  north  of 
his  house  is  a  mountain  whose  height,  according  to  our  meas- 
urements, is  3,900  feet.  Since  it  was  without  a  name,  so  far 
as  we  could  learn,  we  called  it  Ford  Mountain  in  honor  of  our 
kindly  host.  Its  western  flanks  abut  upon  a  valley  in  which 
flows  southward  into  the  bay  a  river  called  by  the  Eskimo  the 
Goratsuk.*  Some  five  miles  from  its  mouth  it  receives  from 
the  eastward  a  tributary  stream,  the  Shenukatik.*  The  She- 
nukatik,  therefore,  lies  in  a  valley  just  to  the  north  of  Mt. 
Ford,  separating  the  latter  from  a  series  of  higher  mountains 
beyond. 

Saturday,  the  ist  of  September,  dawned  with  low,  thick 
clouds  covering  the  tops  of  all  the  mountains  visible  from  our 
anchorage.  The  same  unwelcome  conditions  had  prevailed 
for  several  days  past,  interfering  considerably  with  our  moun- 
tain climbing.  We  had  been  at  Nachvak  now  for  a  week, 
and  had  decided  that  it  was  time  to  turn  our  faces  homeward. 
The  day,  however,  proved  unfavorable  for  sailing,  the  winds 
being  light  and  directly  into  the  bay.  The  barometer  was 
rising,  nevertheless,  and  thus  gave  promise  of  an  agreeable 
change  in  the  heavy  weather.  As  the  morning  progressed 
the  sun  came  out  brightly  and  the  clouds  became  higher  and 
thinner.  Adams  and  I,  who  had  come  to  Nachvak  together 
overland  from  Hebron,  had  long  gazed  yearningly  at  the 
lofty  summits  above  us,  and,  therefore,  welcomed  eagerly 


*  These  names  are  given  by  Daly,  on  the  authority  of  Mr.  Stecker, 
as  "Kogarsuk"  and  "Sennerkitte,"  respectively.  The  names  used  in  the 
text  are  as  given  by  Mr.  Ford,  but  probably  the  others  should  be  pre- 
ferred. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  115 

what  seemed  to  be  a  favorable  opportunity  to  conquer  some 
of  them.  To  be  sure,  we  would  not  have  time  in  one  day  to 
reach  the  mightiest  peak  of  Eastern  America,  though  we 
were  certain  that  it  was  not  far  away  from  us.  But  we  could 
at  least  attempt  the  highest  mountain  in  the  immediate 
vicinity,  and  thus  climb  probably  higher  than  any  one  had 
ever  been  in  Labrador,  and  certainly  establish  a  record  for 
the  highest  measured  peak. 

It  was  already  late  before  we  decided  that  the  ship  could 
not  start,  and  that  it  would  be  a  good  day  for  our  enterprise. 
It  took  but  a  few  minutes  to  make  our  preparations  for  de- 
parture, and  to  get  together  all  that  we  would  need  for  the 
trip:  a  camera,  two  well-tested  aneroid  barometers,  and  a 
meagre  lunch  of  hard  ship's  biscuit  and  compressed  "emer- 
gency ration."  We  rowed  over  to  Ford's  house,  and  set  out 
from  there  at  9.50.  The  first  mile  of  our  way  was  to  the 
westward,  across  the  alluvial  flat  at  the  base  of  Mt.  Ford. 
Its  rich,  moist  soil,  and  the  lower  slopes  of  the  mountains 
rising  out  of  it,  were  covered  thickly  with  a  sub-arctic  autum- 
nal vegetation.  The  poverty  of  animal  Hfe  was  in  great  con- 
trast with  this  wealth  and  variety  among  the  plants.  We  had 
seen  during  our  stay  hardly  anything  except  noisy  ravens  and 
hawks,  and  a  small  brown-and-white  variety  of  owl. 

Our  route  led  us  over  the  boggy  level,  around  numerous 
diminutive  ponds,  along  a  slightly  higher  and  drier  grassy 
mound,  through  thick  willow  clumps  lining  a  brook,  and 
thence  to  the  beginning  of  the  uplands  of  the  Goratsuk  val- 
ley, where  we  turned  to  the  north.  A  much-beaten  trail, 
leading  to  Komaktorvik,  another  bay  farther  north,  guided 
us  over  a  part  of  the  way,  but  we  lost  it  in  a  short  stretch  of 
boggy  land  and  rocks.     Beyond  us  the  valley  rose  gradually 


Ii6  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

for  a  couple  of  miles,  where  it  was  blocked  by  a  group  of 
hills  of  considerable  height.  These  we  might  pass  either  by 
keeping  close  to  the  stream,  flowing  in  a  deep  gorge  to  their 
left,  or  by  following  up  a  secondary  valley  to  a  depression  on 
their  right,  connecting  the  hills  with  a  flank  of  Mt.  Ford. 
At  first  we  chose  the  former  alternative,  passing  over  a 
gradually  rising  plain  covered  thickly  with  grass  and  moss. 
But,  after  nearly  reaching  the  base  of  the  hills,  we  concluded 
that  we  would  probably  gain  by  taking  the  pass  to  the  right. 
So  we  cut  across  in  that  direction,  crossed  a  small  brook,  and 
then  went  up  onto  a  low  shoulder  of  the  hills;  whence  we 
turned  again  north  up  the  new  valley,  keeping  on  the  slopes 
some  distance  above  the  stream.  At  the  head  of  the  valley 
was  a  steep,  stony  incline,  rising  to  a  narrow  boulder-strewn 
pass,  a  coJ  between  two  peaks,  low-lying  offshoots  from  Mt. 
Ford. 

We  climbed  the  westward  peak  in  order  to  get  a  survey 
of  our  further  route.  Its  height  was  1,350  feet,  its  distance 
from  our  starting  point  *about  five  miles.  Behind  us,  the 
Goratsuk  valley  stretched  down  to  Nachvak  Bay.  In  front, 
the  further  slope  of  the  col  descended  steeply  as  a  short,  stony 
valley,  debouching  into  the  valley  of  the  Shenukatik.  The 
latter  lay  stretched  out  to  our  right,  separating  Mt.  Ford 
from  another,  which,  because  of  a  prominent  waterfall  near 
its  base  in  the  middle  of  the  flank  it  presented  toward  us,  we 
afterward  named  Fall  Mountain.  This  was  broad  and 
rounded  at  the  top.  Above  and  beyond  it  rose  two  or  three 
snow-sprinkled  and  cloud-capped  peaks,  one  of  which  we 
hoped  to  climb ;  though  it  was  now  evident  that  we  could  not 
tell  which  would  best  serve  our  purpose  without  first  ascend- 
ing Fall.     On  the  farther  side  of  the  Goratsuk,  to  the  north- 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  117 

west,  the  land  rose  in  a  series  of  remarkable  terraces.  These 
were  afterward  discovered  by  Dr.  Daly  to  be  of  glacial  origin. 

From  our  lookout  we  descended  across  the  col  and  then 
crossed  diagonally,  up  and  down  over  low,  outlying  spurs  of 
Mt.  Ford,  in  the  direction  of  the  waterfall.  A  few  snow- 
buntings  flew  about,  and  were  the  only  signs  of  animal  life. 
We  had  here  just  the  right  mingling  of  rocks  and  vegetation 
to  make  walking  easy  and  rapid.  We  reached  the  river, 
whose  height  at  that  point  was  1,200  feet.  Below  us  it 
tumbled  over  rapids  and  through  a  narrow  rocky  bed. 
Where  we  were,  and  for  a  long  distance  above,  it  spread  out 
wide  and  shallow,  with  an  archipelago  of  small  flat-topped 
stones  projecting  just  above  its  surface  and  lying  so  close 
together  as  to  form  easy  stepping-stones  across.  To  our 
right,  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  valley,  was  a  picturesque  series 
of  jagged  brown  mountains.  It  was  not  far  from  there,  over 
slightly  rising  rocky  ground,  to  the  foot  of  the  waterfall, 
which  we  judged  to  be  about  two  miles  from  our  recent  out- 
look point.  Here  we  stopped  for  half  an  hour  for  lunch. 
The  waterfall  was  just  above  us,  dashing  in  one  sweep  down 
about  250  feet,  and  thence  in  a  series  of  little  tumbles  into  a 
pool  of  the  clearest  and  greenest  possible  water.  A  little 
further  up  the  valley  we  could  see  a  large  lake,  apparently 
about  a  mile  in  length,  so  shallow  in  its  middle  portion  that 
a  group  of  boulders  projected  above  its  surface. 

On  resuming  our  journey,  we  crossed  the  brook  and 
scrambled  straight  up  the  cliffs  for  two  or  three  hundred  feet. 
Then  we  climbed  slowly,  diagonally,  toward  the  eastern  end 
of  Fall  Mountain,  over  steep,  rocky  slopes,  a  mass  of  frost- 
hewn  fragments  of  varied  sizes.  There  were  no  large  boul- 
ders until  we  found  a  group  of  them  near  the  end.     For 


ii8  Report  of  the  Broivn-Harvard  Expedition. 

some  reason,  either  because  of  the  nature  of  the  materials, 
or  because  of  the  greater  severity  and  longer  action  of  the 
frost,  the  mountain  tops  here  are  broken  into  much  smaller 
fragments  than  any  with  which  I  am  familiar  in  New  Eng- 
land, as,  for  instance,  the  summits  of  the  Presidential  Range 
in  the  White  Mountains.  At  2.30  we  reached  a  point  at  a 
height  of  3,000  feet,  whence  we  could  see  the  peaks  toward 
which  we  had  been  struggling,  and  which  until  now  had 
been  hidden  from  us  by  the  curving  sides  of  Fall  Mountain. 
We  could  see  now  that  there  were  two  of  them  lying  close 
together.  Between  them,  and  between  Fall  Mountain  and 
the  more  easterly  of  them,  was  a  bare  valley  at  whose  bottom 
met  the  talus  slopes  from  both  sides.  It  rose  to  a  high  col 
just  between  the  peaks  themselves,  beyond  which  black, 
jagged  ridges  were  visible;  and  descended  toward  the  south 
into  the  Shenukatik.  The  western  peak,  which  we  afterward 
named  Mt.  Faunce,  lay  almost  directly  north  of  us,  most  of 
its  lower  portions  hidden  by  the  curve  in  Fall  Mountain. 
The  eastern  peak,  to  which  we  gave  the  name  Mt.  Eliot,  was 
higher,  and  descended  southward  in  a  long,  gradual  slope 
down  to  the  Shenukatik  valley.  In  the  latter  we  could  see 
a  series  of  lakes  lying  beyond  the  one  we  had  discovered 
before.  At  its  eastern  end  was  a  very  picturesque  grouping 
of  serrate  and  of  round-topped  mountains. 

The  tops  of  our  peaks  were  most  of  the  time  obscured 
by  fog.  The  day  was  turning  out  not  so  propitious  as  we 
had  hoped.  We  determined,  however,  to  continue  on  our 
way,  for,  if  we  could  accomplish  nothing  more,  we  could  at 
least  establish  the  height  of  the  mountain.  Mt.  Eliot,  as  the 
higher  of  the  two,  was  the  one  we  preferred  to  ascend.  But 
it  lay  farther  off,  the  hour  was  late,  and  between  us  and  it 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  119 

was  a  deep  valley  into  which  we  would  first  have  to  descend. 
We  could  not  yet  see  what  would  be  the  conditions  in  at- 
tempting the  other.  So,  before  deciding  on  our  final  plans, 
we  moved  on  a  little  further,  rounding  the  obstructing  curve, 
until  we  stood  near  the  edge  of  a  precipice  that  dropped 
abruptly  into  the  valley  far  below  us.  Here  we  could  see 
that  it  would  be  a  matter  of  great  difficulty  to  get  down  into 
and  across  the  valley  to  Mt.  Eliot ;  but  that  Mt.  Faunce  was 
connected  with  Fall  Mountain  by  a  very  sharp  and  narrow 
bridge-like  neck  lying  but  very  little  below  the  summit  of 
the  latter,  and  still  above  us.  This  decided  us  to  select  Mt. 
Faunce  as  our  objective  point.  It  turned  out  later  that  this 
was  much  the  wiser  plan;  for  from  the  slightly  lower  peak 
we  were  able  to  estimate  closely  the  height  of  the  other ;  the 
view  we  obtained  from  the  summit  was  without  doubt  very 
similar  and  in  no  way  inferior;  and  had  we  taken  the  more 
distant  one  we  would  have  been  left  at  dark  far  from  home, 
with  no  protection  from  the  coldness  of  the  night,  and  in  a 
country  where  it  would  have  been  highly  dangerous  to  con- 
tinue walking  in  the  darkness  to  keep  warm. 

It  was  now  about  3  o'clock.  We  climbed  up  steeply 
over  the  boulders  on  the  projecting  shoulder  of  Fall  Moun- 
tain, around  its  summit,  and  onto  the  narrow  bridge  to  Mt. 
Faunce.  The  height  here  was  3,400  feet,  and  the  summit 
of  Fall  was  not  more  than  a  hundred  feet  higher.  Thence 
we  went  up  a  series  of  not  very  dil^cult  slopes  along  an  ex- 
ceedingly narrow  ridge  that  fell  almost  perpendicularly  on 
the  west  into  a  deep  valley  2,000  feet  below,  and  on  the  east 
in  sharp  talus  heaps  to  the  valley  separating  it  from  Mt. 
Eliot.  The  surface  was  of  finely  broken  stone.  Very  little 
scattered  vegetation  grew  on  it,  and  this  was  almost  exclu- 


120  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

sively  moss  and  lichen,  with  occasional  individual  plants  of 
grass  and  very  rarely  a  small  flowering-  plant.  Of  the  latter 
I  found  not  more  than  half  a  dozen  varieties.  Here  and 
there  were  patches  of  freshly  fallen  snow,  but  none  of  great 
extent. 

We  attained  the  summit  at  4.30.  The  barometer  re- 
corded the  height  as  4,400  feet.*  Mt.  Eliot,  east  of  us,  must 
probably  exceed  5,000  feet  in  height.  The  sky  was  wholly 
overcast  with  low-lying  clouds.  At  first  we  were  completely 
enveloped  in  fog,  but  this  blew  ofif  occasionally,  only  to  be 
replaced  by  fresh  banks  of  it  rolling  up  from  the  south. 
There  were  fortunately  sufficient  breaks  to  enable  us  to  get 
some  photographs,  and  to  give  us  glimpses  of  the  magnificent 
scenery  about  us. 

The  material  of  the  mountain  is  the  same  as  that  of 
which  most  of  Labrador  is  formed :  mainly  hornblende  gneiss, 
cut  here  and  there  by  dykes  of  darker  trap.  The  summit  is  of 
almost  knife-like  sharpness  and  very  jagged.  It  is  nearly 
level  for  about  a  hundred  yards,  descends  then  slightly  to 
the  north  for  a  short  distance,  and  then  turns  sharply  east- 
ward, and  goes  down  by  a  series  of  steps  to  the  valley. 
Southward  it  descends  gradually  by  the  slopes  we  had  as- 
cended. The  whole  of  its  mass  is  a  narrow  ridge,  falling 
with  great  abruptness  in  dizzy  precipices  on  the  east  and 
west.  Mt.  Eliot  is  apparently  almost  exactly  similar  in  its 
nature,  with  a  long  slope  to  the  south  and  sharp  serrate 
ridges  descending  northward  from  its  summit  and  curving 
somewhat  westward,  extending  far  beyond  the  limits  of  Mt. 
Faunce. 


*  The  barometric  pressure  at  sea-level  remained  constant  throughout 
the  day  until  after  our  measurements  were  taken;  the  latter,  therefore, 
required  no  correction. 


At    .Muyford   Tick! 


A   Cirou])  of    I-lskinios  at    lkl)i"iin. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  121 

North  of  us  and  eastward,  much  nearer  apparently  than 
'Nachvak,  was  the  beautiful  indented  and  island-broken  bay 
of  Komaktorvik.  From  the  head  of  the  bay  a  broad  valley, 
holding  a  large  river  in  its  midst,  extended  far  to  the  west. 
A  little  west  of  north,  not  far  beyond  us,  and  cutting  ofif  a 
portion  of  the  valley  of  Komaktorvik,  was  another  detached 
lofty  mountain.  Beyond  this  and  the  valley  on  the  north 
were  peaks  whose  summits  were  concealed  by  a  continuous 
low  blanket  of  clouds.  Far  off  to  the  northwest  was  the 
Torngaets  range,*  stretching  from  the  Atlantic  side  across 
toward  Ungava  Bay,  its  beauty  similarly  half-concealed.  An 
enormous  raised  plateau  lay  between  the  Komaktorvik  val- 
ley and  it.  To  the  westward,  beyond  the  Goratsuk  valley, 
and  again  more  to  the  south,  were  impressive  groups  of  moun- 
tains, some  of  which  seemed  to  us  to  rise  probably  to  the 
height  of  seven  or  eight  thousand  feet.  Immediately  south, 
a  thousand  feet  below,  was  the  broad  mass  of  Fall  Mountain, 
and  beyond  it  Ford  Mountain,  and  still  beyond  the  grand 
collection  of  mountains  on  the  other  side  of  Nachvak,  with 
some  of  which  we  had  made  close  acquaintance  on  our  walk 
from  Hebron.  East  of  Ford,  southeast  and  east  from  us,  a 
range,  at  first  round-topped  and  further  on  more  sharp  and 
jagged,  limited  our  view  and  doubtless  bordered  on  the  sea. 

At  last  we  turned  regretfully  away  and  started  to  retrace 
our  course.  It  was  then  5.30.  We  went  down  the  ridge, 
up  around  the  summit  of  Fall  Mountain  to  the  right,  across 
its  broad  top,  and  down  over  its  broken  rocks  as  rapidly  as 


*  So  designated  on  Weiz's  map,  for  which  see  Packard's  Labrador 
Coast,  p.  226.  Daly  proposes  the  appropriate  term  "Torngat  Range"  as 
the  name  for  the  entire  mountain  system  between  Hebron  and  Cape 
Chidley,  which  he  regards  as  a  structural  and  orographic  unit. 


122  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

we  could.  On  the  way  I  found  a  pair  of  caribou  antlers  that 
had  been  shed  far  up  the  mountain  side,  and  took  them  along 
with  me.  A  brown  Arctic  owl  flew  about  us  in  the  twilight. 
We  passed  the  waterfall  on  its  right  bank  at  seven.  We  had 
soon  crossed  the  river  on  the  stepping  stones,  and  then  has- 
tened rapidly,  with  much  climbing  up  and  down  over  inter- 
vening ridges,  to  the  col  at  our  outlook  point  of  the  morning. 
Thence  we  retraversed  our  path  to  the  broader  Goratsuk  val- 
ley at  the  end  of  this  branch,  often  almost  running  in  order 
to  cover  as  much  distance  as  possible  before  dark.  We  had 
not  reached  the  end  of  this  valley,  however,  before  it  became 
so  dark  that  we  could  no  longer  direct  our  course  by  distant 
landmarks,  and  had  to  go  slowly  and  carefully  because  even 
the  ground  at  our  feet  was  but  dimly  distinguishable.  We 
tried  to  regain  the  beaten  trail,  but  were  unsuccessful.  Bear- 
ing to  the  west  end  of  the  valley  in  the  search  for  it,  we  got, 
as  we  thought,  closer  onto  the  bank  of  the  Goratsuk  than  we 
had  been  on  the  outward  journey,  and  among  a  difficult 
collection  of  unrecognized  slopes,  cliffs,  and  tributary  brooks. 
So  we  climbed  up  a  little  higher  again,  away  from  the  river, 
and  then  went  on  down  over  steep  rocks  until  we  thought 
we  were  near  the  bay.  At  one  place  we  came  to  the  edge  of 
a  vertical  cliff,  down  which  we  had  to  lower  ourselves  with 
great  care  by  aid  of  hand-holds  and  foot-holds  far  apart.  It 
was  exciting  work,  made  doubly  interesting  because  in  the 
darkness  it  involved  a  considerable  element  of  danger.  Be- 
fore we  were  entirely  off  these  rock-ribbed  slopes  we  caught 
the  welcome  gleam  of  a  lighted  window  at  Ford's  house,  but 
soon  lost  it  again  as  we  descended. 

Finally  we  decided  that  we  were  low  enough  down,  and 
so  turned  eastward,  guiding  our  course  by  the  summits  on 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  123 

the  farther  side  of  the  bay,  which  were  now  clearly  outlined 
against  the  dark  sky.  We  found  ourselves  immediately  in 
a  dense  tangle  of  willows.  Through  these  we  struggled  with 
great  difficulty  for  a  long  while,  frequently  encountering  new 
masses  of  them,  and  finding  our  way  blocked  at  intervals 
by  pools,  around  which  we  had  to  circle.  It  was  hard  and 
discouraging  work,  the  worst  of  the  entire  day.  But  it  was 
only  an  instance  of  that  extremity  of  tribulation  that  so  often 
precedes  relief.  We  reached  the  grassy  mound  near  Ford's 
at  last,  saw  the  guiding  light  once  more,  and  at  9.40  had  ar- 
rived at  the  house. 


V. 

SCENERY  OF  THE  ATLANTIC  COAST  OF  LABRADOR. 

A  detailed  description  has  already  been  given  of  the  mag- 
nificent scener}^  betwen  Hebron  and  Nachvak,  and  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  latter  bay.  An  attempt  will  be  made  here  to 
give  a  general  characterization  of  the  scenic  attractions  of 
the  country  as  a  whole,  and  of  its  variety  in  different  locali- 
ties. 

Labrador  lies  directly  north  of  Newfoundland,  the  two 
being  separated  by  the  Straits  of  Belle  Isle,  which  are  26 
miles  wide  at  the  eastern  end  and  nine  and  one-half  miles  at 
the  narrowest  part.  It  is  comprised  between  the  parallels 
of  51°  and  61°  of  north  latitude.  The  Atlantic  coast  line  has 
an  extent  of  about  800  miles.  It  is  lined  throughout  its 
entire  extent  by  mountains  that  approach  close  to  the  sea- 
coast,  often  rising  in  steep  clififs  directly  out  of  the  ocean. 
In  the  southern  part  of  the  country  the  heights  increase  as 
one  goes  inland,  until  they  reach  a  tableland  in  the  interior 


124  Report  of  the  Brozun-Harvard  Expedition. 

with  an  elevation  of  1,500  feet  or  more,  which  forms  the  water- 
shed for  all  the  rivers.*  Further  north  the  mountains  are 
highest  close  to  the  coastline  itself,  or  but  a  very  few  miles 
inland. t  They  begin  at  the  south  with  heights  of  from  two 
to  seven  hundred  feet,  increase  gradually  to  a  medium  height 
of  three  to  four  thousand  feet  in  the  vicinity  of  Port  Man- 
vers,  and  then  rapidly  become  still  higher  until  the  greatest 
elevations,  of  probably  six  to  nine  thousand  feet,  are  attained 
at  almost  the  extreme  north,  between  Nachvak  and  Cape 
Chidley.:|:  The  height  of  these  mountains,  their  immediate 
contact  with  the  sea,  and  the  absence  of  forests  that  might 
conceal  their  broken  outlines,  all  contribute  to  make  them  the 
basal  feature  of  a  coastal  region  whose  picturesqueness  is 
rarely  surpassed. 

There  are  comparatively  few  rivers  of  any  extent  on  this 
Atlantic  side,  most  of  the  larger  ones  draining  in  other  direc- 
tions. The  nearness  of  the  mountain  S3^stem  to  the  water 
on  the  east  prevents  the  merging  of  large  numbers  of  moun- 
tain Streams  into  one  river  of  any  size.  A  single  exception 
exists  in  the  Qase  of  the  Grand  or  Hamilton  River,  which  has 
its  rise  in  the  tableland  of  the  interior  and  flows  into  Hamil- 

*  "The  interior  country  is  undulating,  and  is  traversed  by  ridges  of 
low,  rounded  hills,  that  seldom  rise  more  than  500  feet  above  the  general 
surrounding  level.  .  .  .  The  general  level  of  the  interior  plateau,  .  .  .  near 
the  central  water-shed,  varies  from  1,600  to  1,800  feet."  (Low,  Annual 
Report,  Geol.  Sum.  Can.,  Vol.  VIII,  1896,  p.  21  L.) 

t  "This  mountain  range  appears  to  be  confined  to  the  coast  region  and 
probably  is  under  fifty  miles  in  width,  the  country  on  the  western  side 
sloping  rapidly  down  to  the  level  of  the  interior  plateau."  (Low,  he.  cit., 
p.  23  L.) 

t  These  highest  elevations  are  differently  estimated  by  different 
authorities.  Koch  {Deutsche  Geogr.  Blactter,  Vol.  VII,  No.  2,  1884;  see 
Science,  Vol.  XI,  1888,  p.  77fi)  gives  them  as  8,000  to  9,000  feet;  Bell 
(Report  Geol.  and  Nat.  Hist.  Surv.  Can.,  Vol.  I,  1885,  p.  8  DD)  as  6,000 
feet.     Low  (loc.  cit.)  follows  Bell. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  125 

ton  Inlet.  Its  fame  rests  chiefly  on  the  fact  that  on  it  are 
situated  the  Grand  Falls,  over  which  an  enormous  volume 
of  water  drops  a  distance  of  over  300  feet.*  Henry  G. 
Bryant,  of  Philadelphia,  who  explored  them  in  1891,  writes 
concerning  them  :  "The  Grand  Falls  of  Labrador,  with  their 
grim  environment  of  time-worn,  archaic  rocks,  are  one  of 
the  scenic  wonders  of  this  Western  world,  and  if  nearer  civ- 
ilization would  be  visited  by  thousands  of  travelers  every 
year.  They  are  nearly  twice  as  high  as  Niagara,  and  are 
only  inferior  to  that  marvelous  cataract  in  breadth  and  vol- 
ume of  water." 

Numberless  shallow  lakes,  tarns,  and  pools  are  scattered 
all  over  the  country,  covering,  it  has  been  estimated,  at  least 
a  quarter  of  the  entire  surface. f  The  coastline  is  exceedingly 
irregular,  indented  by  many  deep  harbors  and  fiords,  one  of 
which,  Hamilton  Inlet,  extends  for  150  miles  inland.  Count- 
less small,  rocky  islands  line  the  greater  part  of  the  coast,  ex- 
tending out  from  it  to  a  distance  of  five  to  twenty-five  miles, 
and  affording  safe  inside  runs  and  secure  harbors  for  the  fish- 
ing fleet,  as  well  as  adding  greatly  to  the  attractiveness  of  the 
scener\^  The  soil  is  everywhere  thin  and  unadapted  to  the 
purposes  of  agriculture,  although  the  missionaries  who  live 
here  always  succeed  in  raising  some  of  the  hardier  vegetables 
and  flowers  at  the  expense  of  great  labor  and  care.  But  the 
country  is  by  no  means  all  bare.  A  plenteous  vegetation 
adorns  the  land  in  summer,  composed  of  grass,  moss,  and  a 

*  Low  (loc.  cit.,  p.  141  L)  gives  the  height  as  302  feet;  Bryant  (Journey 
to  the  Grand  Falls,  Phila.  Geogr.  Club,  Bulletin  No.  2,  p.  32)  as  316 
feet. 

t  Low  (loc.  cit.,  p.  23  L) ;  but  this  applies  to  the  whole  country  ex- 
tending west  to  Hudson's  Bay,  instead  of  being  confined  to  the  h'mits 
of  Labrador  proper  as  they  are  now  defined. 


126  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

large  variety  of  Arctic  flowering  plants,  some  of  which  are 
of  great  beauty. 

Glaciation,  submergence,  and  erosion  have  together 
molded  into  their  present  form  the  original  rock-masses  of 
the  country.  These  are  almost  everywhere  com.posed  of  the 
so-called  Laurentian  gneiss,  cut  by  intrusions  of  volcanic 
trap.  In  some  places,  however,  sedimentary  rocks  appear, 
as  in  the  vicinity  of  Pomiadluk,  of  Mugford,  and  of  Ramah. 
The  ice  of  the  glacial  epoch  ground  down  these  rocks, 
rounded  the  summits,  and  furrowed  out  deep  valleys  and 
fiords.  "The  movement  of  the  ice  followed  the  general  slope 
of  the  country  outward  in  all  directions  from  a  central  gath- 
ering ground,  or  neve,  and  the  thickness  of  the  ice  was  such 
that  in  its  flow  it  passed  over  ridges  and  valleys  unchanged, 
or  with  only  slight  deflections."*  The  higher  summits  alone, 
in  the  northern  part  of  the  country,  were  unaffected  by  the 
ice-sheet.  After  or  during  the  glacial  period,  the  whole 
country  sank,  and  the  sea  consequently  rose  to  a  higher  level 
on  its  shores.  Now  the  land  is  rising  again  and  stands  from 
two  to  four  hundred  feet  higher  than  at  the  period  of  its 
greatest  submergence.  This  gradual  uplift  has  left  on  all 
the  lower  slopes  clearly  marked  evidences  of  the  former 
levels  of  the  sea.  Meanwhile  the  surface  has  been  broken 
up  and  diversified  by  frost  and  flood.  To  a  large  extent  these 
activities  have  left  the  hills  and  mountains  with  rounded  sum- 
mits and  gradual  slopes,  both  among  the  lower  elevations 
of  the  south  and  the  more  massive  structures  of  the  north. 
Sometimes,  however,  other  characteristic  erosive  forms  apn 
pear,  such  as  the  rocJies  moutonnees  of  Pomiadluk,  the  round 
or  pyramidal  summits  bounded  by  vertical  cliffs  at  Mugford, 

*  Low,  loc.  cit.,  p.  290  L. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  127 

the  "house-roof"  formations  near  Saglek,  and  the  narrow  ser- 
rate ridges  of  the  Kiglapait  near  Manvers,  and  of  some  of 
the  ranges  at  Nachvak. 

Particularly  marked  is  the  contrast  betwen  the  lower 
surfaces  of  the  south  and  the  bolder,  steeper,  often  more  in- 
tricately-sculptured ridges  that  begin  north  of  Port  Man- 
vers. In  the  more  southerly  portions  the  coastline,  as  we 
have  seen,  is  broken  into  numerous  irregular  bays  and  in- 
dentations, its  waters  crowded  with  hosts  of  small  islands,  and 
its  mainland  rising  into  a  continuous  series  of  low^  elevations. 
These  hills  may  slope  up  gradually  from  the  water  or  present 
precipitous  cliffs  rising  with  sharp  directness.  In  one  or  two 
rare  localities  sandy  beaches  take  their  place,  smooth  and 
hard,  usually  of  small  extent  but  attaining  a  considerable  mag- 
nitude at  the  Strand  near  Cape  Porcupine.  The  slopes  are 
usually  humpy  with  irregular  projecting  naked  rocks  in  the 
midst  of  vegetation ;  but  occasionally  they  take  on  special 
shapes,  such  as  the  frequently-occurring  raised  beaches, 
sometimes  of  small  pebbles  and  rarely  of  large  boulders,  that 
give  evidence  of  their  former  submergence ;  smooth,  grassy 
ascents,  that  are  seldom  seen ;  or  the  roches  moutonnees 
forms,  so  prominent  at  Pomiadluk.  The  seaward  face  is 
varied  not  only  by  these  rough  irregularities  of  structure  and 
shaping,  but  also  by  the  different  coloring  and  behavior  of  its 
different  materials.  The  grayish  gneiss,  which  is  the  main 
rock  of  the  country,  softens  into  comparatively  rounded  con- 
tours ;  but  the  dykes  of  black  volcanic  trap  that  cut  it  every- 
where are  harder  to  the  air  and  softer  to  the  sea,  and  they 
break  into  more  angular  and  wild-seeming  fragments. 
Where  other  rocks  occur,  such  as  slates,  sandstones,  and  con- 
glomerates,  the  variety  in   coloring  and   contour  becomes 


128  Report  of  the  Broivn-Harvard  Expedition. 

still  greater.  Gorges,  chasms,  sea  caves,  water  courses,  form 
other  elements  in  the  total  make-up,  and  all  the  elements 
take  on  constantly  differing  groupings  and  variations. 

Except  for  the  sometimes  precipitous  sea  walls,  the  hill 
slopes,  more  inland,  are  almost  always  gradual,  though 
broken,  scarred  and  seamed,  affording  a  footing  for  an  abun- 
dant low  vegetation.  The  sky  line  is  never  jagged,  angular, 
and  steep.  From  the  summits  one  looks  inland  over  a 
country  made  up  of  elements  similar  to  those  on  the  shore, 
except  that  the  steeper  cHffs  are  absent.*  Wide  valleys 
stretch  out,  sometimes  of  considerable  extent,  their  bottoms 
covered  over  thickly  with  soft,  varicolored  moss  and  other 
growths.  Out  of  them  rise  low  hills,  their  sides  pitted  and 
knobbed  with  projecting  rock  and  plant-covered  hollow. 
Often  every  little  depression  is  filled  with  pools  of  reddish 
boggy  water;  small  lakes  and  swampy  bottoms  fill  in  large 
portions  of  the  valleys ;  and  occasional  ice-cold  rills  trickle 
or  foam  among  the  hills.  Toward  the  north,  owing  probably 
to  some  difference  in  the  perviousness  of  the  soil,  these  pools 
become  less  numerous.  The  views  from  the  hilltops  are 
enchanting,  embracing  always  a  picturesque  combination  of 
the  peaceful  inland  rolling  country,  the  feeding-ground  of  the 
caribou ;  of  distant  mountain  tops,  row  behind  row,  with 
snowy  patches  on  their  sides;  of  bays  and  harbors,  capes  and 

*  Compare  the  following  description  by  Daly,  on  page  210  of  his 
report:  "From  any  commanding  hill  on  island  or  mainland,  the  eye 
ranges  far  and  wide  over  a  surface  showing  everywhere  the  evidence  of 
universal  and  profound  glaciation.  Unobscured  by  forest,  soil,  or  thick 
drift,  and  singularly  expanded  because  of  the  crystalline  clearness  of  the 
atmosphere,  the  view  typifies  that  which  may  be  had  in  the  Laurentian 
Highlands  of  Canada,  or  in  the  Archaean  of  the  Scottish  Highlands.  It 
is  a  great  wilderness  of  innumerable  rounded,  ice-worn  hummocks,  gen- 
erally gneissic  in  composition." 


K 


E.  B.  Delaharre,  Ph.  D.  129 

promontories,  presenting  a  much  broken  and  indented  coast- 
line; and  of  the  sea,  covered  often  with  scattered  bergs  and 
ice-floes,  and  dotted  with  the  numerous  islands. 

The  interior  is  said  to  be  well  wooded  and  far  from  bar- 
ren, even  almost  to  the  northern  extremity.  But  near  the 
coast  one  rarely  see  trees  of  any  notable  size.  At  Hope- 
dale  and  Nain  there  are  small  groves  near  the  mission 
stations ;  but  elsewhere  we  met  them  only  deep  in  the  bays 
and  in  sheltered  valleys  a  considerable  distance — five  or  ten 
miles  at  least — inland.*  Thus,  when  not  entirely  lacking, 
they  form  an  unobtrusive  feature  in  the  usual  landscape. 
The  low  vegetation  that  predominates  clothes  the  country 
with  a  close  green  mantle,  but  leaves  its  shape  and  natural 
outHne  unconcealed.  Inorganic  nature  reveals  herself  in  her 
own  primeval  character,  leaving  all  the  strength  and  charm 
and  variety  that  she  can  assume  naked  to  observation. 
There  is  little  of  softness,  little  of  the  attraction  that  vigorous 
organic  life  can  add ;  though  the  green  of  the  low  plants,  the 
grays,  reds,  and  browns  of  mosses  and  lichens,  the  blues  and 
whites  and  pinks  and  yellows  of  the  flowers  add  a  suggestion 

*  According  to  Low  {loc.  cit.,  p.  31  L)  the  limits  of  trees  are  as  fol- 
lows :  "The  tree-line  skirts  the  southern  shore  of  Ungava  Bay  and  comes 
close  to  the  mouth  of  the  George  River,  from  which  it  turns  south- 
southeast,  skirting  the  western  foot-hills  of  the  Atlantic  coast  range, 
which  is  quite  treeless,  southward  to  the  neighborhood  of  Hebron,  in 
latitude  58°,  where  trees  are  again  found  in  protected  valleys  at  the 
heads  of  the  inner  bays  of  the  coast.  At  Davis  Inlet,  in  latitude  56°, 
trees  grow  on  the  coast  and  high  up  on  the  hills,  the  barren  grounds 
being  confined  to  the  islands  and  headlands,  which  remain  treeless  to  the 
south  of  the  mouth  of  Hamilton  Inlet.  These  barren  islands  and  bare 
headlands  of  the  outer  coast,  along  with  the  small  size  of  the  trees  of 
the  lowlands,  have  caused  a  false  impression  to  be  held  regarding  much 
of  the  Atlantic  coast,  which  from  Hamilton  Inlet  southward  is  well  tim- 
bered about  the  head  of  the  larger  bays  and  on  the  lowlands  of  the  small 
river  valleys." 


130  Report  of  the  Brozvn-Harvard  Expedition. 

of  this,  yet  in  a  way  that  never  interferes  with  the  stern 
grandeur  of  the  Hfeless  masses. 

The  more  northern  landscapes  differ  from  those  thus 
far  described  mainly  in  the  facts  that  the  greater  heights  at- 
tained   lead    to    grander    impressions    of    massiveness    and 
strength,  and  involve  greater  ruggedness  and  variety  of  form ; 
and  that  the  softening  influences  of  soil,  water,  and  vegeta- 
tion are  present  to  a  far  less  degree.     Here  nature  introduces 
us  to  her  masterpieces  of  form.     Deep  fiords  with  steep,  pre- 
cipitous shores,  break  into  the  coast.     Islands  are  few,  and 
the  high  land  contends  directly  with  the  unbroken  force  of 
the  sea.     The  lofty  summits  are  still  often  rounded,  though 
quite  as  often  the  conditions  of  erosion  have  been  such  that 
they  form  long  ridges  of  great  sharpness  and  of  jagged  out- 
line.    The  bays  and  streams  have  cut  off  huge  portions  of 
the  mountain  sides,  which  fall  sharply  to  the  narrow  valleys, 
wherein  masses  of  rough  boulders  are  piled  deeply,  while 
heaps  of  coarse  talus  form  a  steep  transition  between  moun- 
tain and  hollow.     The  projecting  buttresses   of  the  flanks 
often  inclose  huge  basins  or  amphitheatres.     The  summits 
are  rent  and  shattered  into  bare  heaps  of  broken  stones  and 
boulders  of  all  sizes.     Plant  life  is  still  abundant  on  the  lower 
levels,  but  finds  little  hospitality  on  the  bleak,  higher  slopes. 
Watercourses  are  rarely  visible  at  any  distance.     Snow  is 
seen  in  summer  only  in  numerous  large  drifts  and  patches, 
never   covering   even   the   loftiest   mountains    continuously. 
From  the  high  latitude  of  the  country,  its  position  on  the 
cold  side  of  the  ocean,  and  the  great  altitude  of  its  moun- 
tains, one  might  naturally  expect  to  find  the  snow-line  at  a 
comparatively  low  elevation.     The   reason   for  its  absence 
doubtless  lies  in  the  small  amount  of  annual  precipitation,  the 
winter's  snowfall  not  exceeding  five  or  six  feet. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  131 

The  more  southerly  part  of  the  coast,  with  its  lower  hills 
and  many  islands,  is  full  enough  of  beauty  and  attractiveness. 
But  the  northern  part  is  indescribably  magnificent.  It  is 
hard  to  imagine  any  coastal  scenery  possessing  greater  im- 
pressiveness  and  grandeur  than  is  afforded  by  the  serrate 
ridges  and  great  rounded  basins  of  the  Kiglapait;  the  steep 
clilTs  crowned  by  the  rounded  summits  of  Mugford;  the 
strange  symmetry  of  Bishop's  Mitre;  the  intricate  recesses 
of  Saglek  Bay,  shut  in  by  lofty  walls  that  descend  from  the 
worn  summits  above  it ;  and  the  massive  mountains  that 
crowd  together  in  so  great  richness  of  form  and  grouping 
about  Nachvak. 

^  The  charm  of  a  landscape  is  never  exhausted  by  the  con- 
formations of  its  surface  alone,  with  its  attendant  growths 
and  other  accidents.  There  are  subtler  influences  of  atmos- 
phere and  sky,  of  changing  brightnesses  and  shades,  of  shapes 
and  colorings  varying  with  the  time  of  day,  of  transforma- 
tions wrought  by  evening  light,  that  are  as  important  to  its 
total  effect  as  are  the  more  delicate  bouquets  to  the  flavor  of 
rare  wines  and  fruit.  Many  of  these  finer  elements  are  the 
same  in  nature  and  give  rise  to  similar  impressions  in  Labra- 
dor as  elsewhere.  A  mere  mention  of  them  is  enough  to 
convey  a  realization  of  their  significance.  Some  special 
words  may  be  devoted,  however,  to  the  more  striking  and 
less  commonly  distributed  among  them. 

The  sea  contributes  a  number  of  effects  of  especial  inter- 
est. Thus,  mirage  is  of  not  infrequent  occurrence,  and  is 
said  by  the  Newfoundland  and  Labrador  Pilot  to  be  "charac- 
teristic of  the  few  fine  days  of  summer"  off  the  Labrador 
coast.  The  fishermen  call  it  "loom."  It  may  be  caused  by 
distant  low-lying  mists,  or  by  heated  strata  of  air.  The  latter 
were  sometimes  clearly  visible  in  certain  directions  over  the 


132  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

water,  distorting  the  horizon,  or  as  a  thin  streak  above  the 
calm  surface  between  us  and  some  not  far-off  island. 
Schooners  and  icebergs  frequently  thus  appeared  doubled  or 
tripled, 'in  the  latter  case  with  the  middle  image  inverted; 
and  with  the  images  sometimes  overlapping  or  sometimes 
placed  one  high  above  the  other.  During  a  portion  of  the 
season  ice-floes  are  abundant,  adding  greatly  to  the  pic- 
turesque appearance  of  the  sea.  For  the  most  part,  they  are 
low  and  flat,  composed  of  pans  of  various  sizes  that  may  be 
crowded  closely  together,  or  at  other  times  dot  the  water 
only  here  and  there.  Occasionally  they  are  higher,  and  are 
then  curiously  carven  by  sun  and  sea  into  varied  shapes, 
abounding  in  caves  and  pillars  and  overhanging  shelves. 
The  green  of  this  ice  when  seen  through  the  water,  the 
deep  transparent  blue  of  its  unsubmerged  fresh  surfaces,  and 
the  pure  dazzling  whiteness  of  all  portions  that  have  been 
exposed  longer  to  the  air,  fully  justify  the  enthusiasm  of 
those  who  have  described  its  coloring.  Icebergs  may  be 
met  with  at  almost  any  time  and  in  any  number.  Their  lofty, 
rugged  shapes  and  great  masses  are  full  of  variety  and  im- 
pressiveness.  On  sunny  days  the  kittiwakes  and  other  sea 
fowl  may  be  seen  resting  on  their  sides.  Once,  as  we  drove 
rapidly  through  thick  weather,  the  fog  cleared  suddenly  and 
revealed  an  enormous  castellated  berg  almost  directly  in  our 
path,  standing  out  against  a  rough,  rocky  island;  and  on 
many  other  occasions  we  met  them,  though  rarely  under  such 
picturesque  circumstances. 

In  the  evening  the  phosphorescence  of  the  water  is  often 
very  marked  and  striking.  The  ship  moved  through  streaks 
of  cold  fire  and  left  a  burning  sea  in  its  wake.  Fish  awakened 
by  the  disturbance  darted  ofT,  invisible  themselves,  but  leav- 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  133 

ing  trails  of  dim,  twinkling  light.  Occasionally  a  bird  also 
would  be  aroused  from  his  slumbers  on  the  water  and  fly 
across  in  front  like  a  dim  shadow.  When  we  were  rowing, 
the  water  "burned"  brightly  at  the  bow  and  along  the  sides, 
and  each  dip  of  the  oars  made  a  spot  as  clear  as  moonlight. 

Another  beautiful  phenomenon  of  the  night  time  peculiar 
to  these  high  latitudes  is  the  aurora  borealis.  We  witnessed 
a  large  number  of  brilliant  displays,  of  some  of  which,  occur- 
ring during  our  overland  trip,  descriptions  have  already  been 
given.  Of  two  others  I  have  the  following  notes:'  "It 
started  with  a  few  faint  streaks  in  the  north  and  east.  Then 
the  streamers  shot  up  further,  in  changing,  quivering  waves. 
Great  curved  ribbons  of  silvery  light  developed  overhead, 
with  long  streamers  reaching  thence  to  the  horizon  in  various 
directions.  Then  it  gradually  faded  away."  "There  was 
another  beautiful  auroral  display  last  evening,  similar  in  its 
marvelous  light  and  rapid  activity  to  that  of  August  21.  The 
unearthly  light  danced  quickly  to  and  fro,  weird  and  mys- 
terious. It  twisted  itself  into  curves  and  spirals,  shot  out 
into  bands  and  streamers,  formed  ribbons  of  vertical  pickets. 
These  were  constantly  forming  fresh  combinations,  and 
along  their  varied  lines  fllew  waves  of  quivering,  almost  living, 
undulations."  To  these,  to  complete  the  impression  of  the 
evening  splendors  of  Labrador,  may  be  added  this,  descrip- 
tive of  a  row  across  the  harbor  at  Nain :  "It  was  one  of  the 
remarkably  perfect  nights  that  surely  no  more  southern 
country  can  surpass.  The  moon,  not  yet  three-quarters  old, 
was  just  rising,  sending  a  gleam  of  gold  across  the  still  water 
of  the  harbor.  The  stars  shone  brightly,  a  pale  aurora  glim- 
mered across  the  sky,  and  the  water  burned  under  the  oar 
strokes.     With  its  setting  of  quiet  hills  the  picture  was  ideal." 


134  Report  of  the  Broivn-Harvard  Expedition. 

The  colors  of  sunrise  and  sunset  that  occurred  during 
our  voyage  were  rarely  of  any  particular  beauty.  In  general 
they  were  cold  and  gray,  or,  at  most,  appeared  in  yellow 
and  violet  hues  on  the  hills,  or  in  rosy  streaks  on  the  horizon. 
But  of  one  remarkable  sunrise  I  wrote  down  a  description 
immediately  after  its  occurrence,  which  I  cannot  forbear  re- 
producing here.  Its  date  was  August  17,  while  we  were 
sailing  from  Mugford  to  Hebron :  'T  was  called  at  four 
o'clock  to  take  my  turn  at  the  watch  with  Harry.  We  were 
rewarded  by  an  exceptionally  brilliant  sunrise.  The  scene 
of  the  performance  was  framed  in  by  two  low  islands.  Be- 
tween them  lay  a  bank  of  clouds,  tapering  into  a  thin,  long 
point  toward  the  north,  lying  close  down  on  the  horizon. 
Above  that  was  a  clear  space  of  sky,  and  then  a  large  group 
of  clouds  that  formed  part  of  a  general  massing  covering  a 
large  proportion  of  the  sky.  Directly  overhead  the  clouds 
could  be  seen  to  be  thin  and  fleecy,  stretching  downward  so 
that  their  lower  parts  were  at  no  great  altitude.  The  first 
signs  of  the  approaching  splendors  were  already  apparent 
when  I  came  on  deck.  The  lower  edge  of  the  upper  of  the 
tw^o  cloud  banks  was  fringed  wath  a  reddish-purple,  above 
which  the  dull  slate  of  the  unillumined  surface  stretched 
everywhere.  Soon  this  purple  brightened  into  a  clear  crim- 
son, w'hich  gradually  mounted  higher  on  the  bank  until  it 
reached  the  top,  and  thence  shaded  downward  into  orange 
hues.  Meanwhile  the  lower  bank  had  assumed  the  deep  red- 
purple  on  its  under  edge,  while  all  the  rest  of  it  was  a  very 
dark  blue-purple.  Immediately  overhead  the  fleecy  mists 
were  white,  and  between  them  and  the  horizon,  and  here  and 
there  in  the  midst  of  the  illumined  field,  dull  slate  prevailed. 
The   orange   band   lining  the   upper  bank   brightened ;   the 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  135 

crimson  spread  forth  wider;  the  red  encroached  upon  the 
blue  in  the  purple  of  the  lower  cloud,  until  it  became  a  mesh 
of  fire.     The  clear  sky  between  the  two  banks  assumed  a 
light  olive-green   hue.     In   it   small   detachments   from   the 
larger  clouds  made  stars  and  fleecy  fringes  of  orange.     A 
narrow  bar  of  gold  shone  just  above  the  lower  purples.     The 
dark  masses  of  the  two  islands,  curving  together  just  under- 
neath, framed  in  a  picture  of  wonderful  coloring.     The  crim- 
son crept  higher  and  wider,  and  lighted  up  the  low-hanging 
edges  of  the  clouds  above  us,  reaching  finally  around  to  the 
farthest  west.     Broad  bands  of  brighter  light  began  to  radi- 
ate out  from  the  centre  of  illumination,  exactly  as  the  con- 
ventional picture  always  represents  the  rising  sun,  the  reverse 
of  the  shadows  on  far-off  mist  that  are  popularly  supposed 
to  be  'the  sun  drawing  water.'     Into  the  struggle  for  su- 
premacy of  the  two  purples  in  the  low-lying  bank  entered  a 
new  element,  a  tangle  of  living  gold.     After  this  the  blues 
gained  over  the  reds  in  the  duller  purples  below ;  the  crimson 
gave  place  to  yellow;  the  line  of  gold  on  the  higher  bank 
broadened  and  brightened ;  the  variety  in  coloring  gave  place 
to  increasing  illumination,  until  at  five  o'clock  a  narrow  open- 
ing directly  on  the  horizon,  in  the  centre  and  bottom  of  the 
almost  meeting  curves  of  the  islands,  gave  a  glimpse  of  the 
sun's  burning  gold,  and  soon  his  disc  had  struggled  above 
the  lower  obstacles  and  gleams  of  cold  sunshine  fell  on  the 
ship  and  the  dark  faces  of  the  furrowed  cliffs  of  the  shore." 

In  concluding  this  characterization  of  the  scenery  of 
Labrador,  I  cannot  better  emphasize  the  preceding  account 
of  its  peculiarities  than  by  giving  from  my  diary  a  few  ex- 
tracts descriptive  of  particular  localities. 

Of  the  islands  north  of  the  entrance  to  Hamilton  Inlet, 


136  Report  of  the  Brozvn-Harvard  Expeditian. 

July  24:  "The  islands,  as  we  approached,  though  not  very- 
high,  yet  presented  a  very  picturesque  appearance,  mainly 
due  to  ragged,  angular,  narrow  dykes  of  trap  protruding 
through  the  rounded  softer  rocks.  Packard  says  of  this 
region :  It  'is  in  places  very  high  and  rugged,  owing  to  the 
presence  of  trap  dykes  and  ancient  volcanic  overflows  cap- 
ping the  hills  of  gneiss.  Huge  dykes  of  the  black  rock  rail 
in  ruflfled  crests  over  the  hills  of  pale,  gneiss-Hke,  huge  black 
walls.  .  .  .  Owing  to  the  great  outbursts  of  black  basalt  cap- 
ping the  light  gneiss  hills,  and  running  in  ridges  or  forming 
great  splashes  on  the  faces  of  the  hills,  and  sometimes  entire 
hills,  like  craters,  the  hills  are  transformed  from  what  would 
otherwise  be  quite  tame  elevations  into  high,  bold,  wild- 
looking  peaks.'  Except  for  these  black  intrusions,  with 
their  irregularly  broken  outlines,  the  hills  were  rounded  and 
green  with  vegetation;  but  .the  green  was  not  that  of  our 
own  wooded  hills,  but  a  close-lying  tinge  of  color,  with  bare 
rocks  and  cliffs  projecting  through  it." 

Of  a  chasm  on  one  of  the  Seal  Islands,  September  20: 
"After  anchoring,  we  went  ashore  on  Long  Island.  Its  most 
remarkable  feature  is  a  deep  chasm  extending  almost  the 
entire  width  of  the  island,  narrow,  with  steep,  straight  walls, 
between  which  the  breakers  roll  noisily  at  the  bottom." 

Of  Pomiadluk,  July  30 :  "We  found  a  country  that  well 
repaid  us  in  its  interesting  features  and  wild  grandeur.  A 
mountain  range  rises  up  from  the  shore  where  we  landed, 
and  we  climbed  one  peak  which,  by  Daly's  barometric  read- 
ings, was  1,170  feet  in  height.  It  rises  in  two  slopes:  the 
lower  one  fairly  gradual,  with  a  level  plain  at  its  top  half  a 
mile  in  width  at  a  height  of  390  feet,  and  then  a  much  steeper 
upper  slope  above  it.     The  appearance  of  this  mountain  is 


Mountain    Ciroup    al    XullalarUik    (  Raniah    May);    lookins;-    nnrlli. 


Siuitli    SIkuh'    of    Xacli\ak    l>av.    near    tlu-    Xarrcjw: 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  137 

vastly  different  from  anything  we  have  previously  seen.  The 
whole  lower  slope  is  made  up  of  long,  smooth,  rounded  ridges 
of  massive  rock,  absolutely  bare  of  vegetation,  with  deep 
fissures  between  them  in  which  soil  and  vegetation  have 
gathered.  The  long  axis  of  these  rocks  runs  nearly  north- 
west and  southeast,  sloping  downward  toward  the  southeast. 
A  cross  section  at  right  angles  to  the  long  axis  shows  a 
gradual  slope  up  the  southwest  side,  a  rounded  top,  and  a 
steep  dip  toward  the  northeast.  This  is  the  shape  char- 
acteristic of  what  are  called  roches  moutonnees,  and  is  due 
to  glacial  action,  the  ice  having  moved  in  the  northeast  di- 
rection down  the  slope  of  the  mountain.  We  found  many 
glacial  strife  marking  its  course,  and  an  abundance  of  the 
lunoid  markings  mentioned  by  Packard,  whose  origin  is  still 
a  matter  of  dispute.  We  found  them  even  up  to  the  very 
top  of  the  peak,  much  higher  than  they  have  previously  been 
seen.  They  run  in  Httle,  straight  groups,  taking  the  same 
direction  as  the  strije.  .  .  .  The  material  of  most  of  the  rocks 
is  of  volcanic  origin :  diabase,  granites,  etc. ;  but  there  occurs 
also  a  large  amount  of  metamorphic  conglomerates,  with 
beautifully  exposed  surfaces,  the  large  green  and  pink  peb- 
bles within  it  having  become  greatly  flattened  under  enor- 
mous pressure.  These  conglomerates  are  the  first  we  have 
found  in  Labrador. 

"The  whole  of  the  lower  slope  has  been  submerged,  and 
the  sea  has  washed  out  most  of  the  glacial  drift  between  the 
ridges  of  rock.  Daly  found  raised  beaches  up  to  360  feet, 
showing  that  this  region  has  been  raised  up  much  higher  than 
those  further  south.  In  one  place  is  an  enormous  gorge  with 
steep,  wild  cliffs  on  its  sides,  in  which  hawks  have  their  nests, 
and  with  its  floor  covered  with  small  boulders.     It  belongs 


138  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

to  a  beach  250  feet  high.  The  extent  of  the  slopes  thus 
formed  must  be  several  miles  in  breadth,  and  a  mile  or  more 
in  upward  direction.  The  higher  rocks  on  this  lower  slope 
are  more  rough,  broken,  and  weatherworn,  interspersed  with 
a  great  deal  more  of  vegetation ;  and  some  large  stretches 
exist  where  an  abundant  soil  and  its  growths  reach  down 
close  to  the  sea.  But  a  very  large  proportion  of  these  lower 
rocks  are  as  smooth  as  if  the  sea  had  just  receded  from  them, 
are  almost  as  bare  of  vegetation,  and  are  tumbled  together  in 
huge  masses,  ridge  rising  above  ridge,  of  a  perfect  hummocky 
shape.  This  part  of  the  mountain  presents  a  magnificently 
impressive  landscape. 

"The  intervening  plain,  perhaps  half  a  mile  in  width  in 
places,  is  composed  of  a  pebbly  floor  covered  with  charac- 
teristic Arctic  vegetation.  A  number  of  small  ponds  lie  upon 
it.  It  may  have  been  formed  by  sea  action,  thus  marking  the 
upper  limits  of  submergence ;  or  it  may  be  the  washings  down 
from  the  higher  parts  of  the  mountain.  From  it  the  final 
peaks  rise  steeply.  They  are  composed  of  rocks  of  the  same 
hummocky  formation  as  below,  but  have  their  outlines  much 
softened,  both  because  of  the  greater  steepness  and  because 
the  sea  has  never  risen  over  them  to  remove  the  glacial  de- 
posits. We  found  a  number  of  long,  steep  snow  drifts,  which 
were  of  assistance  in  climbing  up.  As  we  approached  the 
top.  a  rosy  tinge  on  dark  leaden  clouds  showed  that  the  sun 
was  not  yet  set.  A  few  gentle  showers  fell  before  we  de- 
scended. From  the  top  the  view  was  a  wonderful  one.  Just 
under  the  peak  beyond  us  was  a  large  lake,  probably  nearly 
half  a  mile  in  diameter,  containing  an  island,  and  with  a  few 
jutting  points  reaching  into  it.  In  the  northwest,  though  it 
was  already  nine  o'clock,  the  sun  was  just  setting  in  a  bank 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  139 

of  clouds,  and  other  clouds  above  it  were  lighted  with  long 
bands  of  brilliant  gold  and  rose.  A  ruddy  light  gleamed  over 
the  whole  surface  of  the  lake.  To  the  north  and  west  rose 
groups  of  higher  mountains,  range  behind  range,  with  an 
occasional  lake  or  arm  of  the  sea  visible  between  them.  The 
farther  ones  were  covered  with  a  purple  haze.  To  the  south 
and  east  was  the  sea,  forming  a  long,  irregular  Hne  at  its 
juncture  with  the  mainland,  and  covered  with  the  numerous 
islands  of  the  Adlavik  group." 

Of  the  view  from  a  hill  at  Ford  Harbor,  August  8: 
"The  view  is  one  of  the  most  enchanting  I  ever  saw.  High 
mountains  most  picturesquely  grouped,  islands  without  num- 
ber dotting  the  sea,  and  a  general  combination  that  could 
hardly  be  surpassed." 

Of  Port  Manvers,  August  11  and  12:  "The  mountains 
hereabout  are  high  and  steep,  very  impressive  in  their  ap- 
pearance. They  are  made  of  very  friable  rock,  forming 
coarse  gravel  at  their  bases,  and  beaches  of  fine  sand  in  the 
protected  bays.  Mt.  Thoresby,  south  of  the  Port,  is  2,y2,i 
feet  high.  It  rises  gradually  on  its  southern  slopes,  but  falls 
very  steeply,  with  much  gullied  sides,  to  the  harbor.  .  .  . 
We  traversed  three  miles  of  sandy  beach,  climbed  a  steep 
rise  to  an  enormous  gravel  plain  that  was  once  a  shallow  bar 
connecting  a  rocky  island  to  the  mainland,  but  now  lies  170 
to  200  feet  above  the  sea;  then  up  the  course  of  a  brook, 
across  a  damp,  sogg}^  level  where  our  feet  sank  deeply  into 
the  soft  moss  and  turf,  and  up  steeply  along  another  stretch 
of  the  brook  into  a  narrow  valley  lying  between  two  round, 
green  hills  perhaps  1,500  feet  above  the  sea.  .  .  .  Thence 
we  climbed  up  the  steep  mountain  side  to  the  right,  over  a 
precipitous   snow  bank,   and   onto   the  top.     On   one   side, 


140  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

across  the  Port  and  stretching  on  beyond  its  head,  were  the 
steep  flanks  and  knurly  sides  of  the  Thoresby  group ;  on  an- 
other side  the  sea;  and  in  front  stretched  out  the  deer  coun- 
try— a  wide,  level  plain,  filled  with  small  lakes,  and  inter- 
rupted by  numerous  low  hills  rising  out  of  it  like  islands. 
We  could  see  around  for  many  miles.  A  Labrador  landscape 
has  decided  charms  of  its  own,  in  spite  of  the  lack  of  trees. 
Where  the  naked  rocks  project  or  cliffs  fall  steeply,  they  pro- 
duce an  impression  of  strength  and  grandeur.  But  the 
country  is  not  all  made  up  of  mountains  and  bare  rocks. 
Vegetation  is  abundant,  and  many  of  the  rounded  hills  are 
green  with  moss  and  grass.  The  low,  thick  scrub  relieves  the 
closeness  of  the  other  growths,  and  produces  a  velvety  im- 
pression at  a  distance.  The  hilltops  here  are  not  bestrewn 
with  Httle  pools,  as  we  have  found  them  in  some  places ;  but 
the  lower  ground  has  an  abundance  of  water  and  thick,mossy 
growths  of  many  colors." 

Of  the  Kiglapait,  August  13:  "The  most  striking 
part  of  the  coast  we  passed  was  the  Kiglapait,  a  high  ridge 
a  little  north  of  Port  Manvers,  which  the  Pilot  says  is  not 
less  than  2,000  feet  in  height.  Daly,  who  is  good  at  such 
estimates,  believes  it  to  be  about  3,800  feet  in  height.  Its 
summits  are  long  and  jagged,  stretching  out  one  after  the 
other  in  a  long  series.*  They  fall  sharply  to  a  long,  low, 
rounded  hill  lying  in  front  of  them  on  the  seashore,  and  have 


*  See  Daly,  loc  cit.,  pp.  218,  267 :  "The  axis  of  the  range  runs  due 
east  and  west,  parallel  to  the  coast  line,  which  here  has  an  exceptional 
trend.  The  sierra  is  not  more  than  thirty  miles  in  length,  but,  on  account 
of  its  conspicuous  position  on  the  shore,  is  strikingly  picturesque.  Ten 
distinct  and  individual  summits  from  two  thousand  five  hundred  to  four 
thousand  feet  in  height  could  be  counted  from  the  schooner.  .  .  .  The 
Kiglapait  is  unmeasured,  unmapped,  and  absolutely  unknown  as  to  com- 
position." 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  141 

a  series  of  immense  amphitheatres  scooped  out  of  their  bar- 
ren sides." 

Of  Cape  Mugford  and  of  Bishop's  Mitre,  August  15  and 
16:  "We  are  in  a  bight  on  the  south  side  of  Cape  Mugford, 
at  the  entrance  to  its  Tickle.  North  of  us  lies  a  pair  of  re- 
markable peaks.  One  of  them  has  two  smooth,  round  sum- 
mits, the  other  a  more  irregular  one,  about  3,000  feet  in 
height.  Below  the  summits  the  slope  of  the  top  ends  ab- 
ruptly in  vertical  cliffs,  furrowed  with  perpendicular  lines  and 
showing  horizontal  strata  that  curve  downward  at  the  east 
end  and  dip  steadily  until  they  meet  the  sea.  Except  at  this 
end,  a  long  slope  of  talus  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  clififs,  clifT  and 
talus  together  measuring  probably  a  thousand  feet.  At  the 
lower  end  of  the  talus  are  other  lesser  cliffs,  finally  ending 
in  comparatively  low,  irregular  hills  at  the  water's  edge.  .  .  . 
We  found  the  cliffs  inaccessible.  Adams  and  I  climbed  to 
1,225  ^"S^t  3,t  the  far  western  edge  of  the  peaks,  up  to  the  foot 
of  the  main  talus.  Between  the  two  peaks  we  found  an  in- 
curving gorge,  the  cliffs  continuing  throughout  its  whole 
extent  and  joining  together  the  two  mountains.  At  its  inner 
angle  a  beautiful  waterfall  makes  a  drop  of  probably  250  feet, 
and  then  runs  off  in  a  curving  brook  through  the  short  valley. 
.  .  .  Nothing  can  be  more  delightful  than  a  sunny  Labrador 
day  in  midsummer,  especially  at  sea,  away  from  the  plague 
of  mosquitoes,  and  with  stupendous  scenery  to  gaze  at  with 
its  constant  changes  and  developments.  We  got  away  about 
nine  o'clock,  with  very  little  wind.  Our  course  lay  through 
the  narrow  Mugford  Tickle,  close  by  the  foot  of  the  cliffs 
described  yesterday  and  northward  beyond.  The  views  we 
had  of  Cape  Mugford  on  its  different  sides  were  grand 
beyond  description.     We  passed  under  its  cliffs  where  they 


142  Report  of  the  Brozvn- Harvard  Expeditian. 

drop  most  steeply  directly  into  the  sea.  An  occasional  nar- 
row waterfall  foamed  over  their  rugged  sides.  As  we  ap- 
proached the  northern  end,  the  sea  opened  out  again  on 
either  side,  and  we  had  a  repetition  on  a  larger  scale  of  similar 
formations  to  those  of  the  southern  side.  To  the  eastward, 
four  or  five  miles  out  at  sea,  lay  the  inaccessible  peaks  of 
Nanuktut  or  White  Bear  Island.  The  mainland  stretched 
ofif  irregularly  to  the  northwest,  with  a  multitude  of  sharp, 
snowy  peaks  crowded  along  its  length.  As  we  progressed, 
these  came  out  one  after  another,  showing  deep  gulches  and 
ravines  between  them  and  giving  a  series  of  most  majestic 
combinations.  At  the  northern  extreme  of  the  Cape  is  the 
Bishop's  Mitre,  which,  from  every  point  of  view,  is  deeply 
impressive.  Its  summit  as  we  first  saw  it  appeared  to  be  a 
single  bare  pyramid,  which  reminded  us  of  the  summit  of 
the  Matterhorn.  Up  to  its  3,000-foot  base  led  in  one  place 
a  continuous  steep  slope  uninterruptedly  from  the  sea;  but 
elsewhere  the  descent,  though  various,  was  steeper.  As  we 
got  further  north  of  it  the  companion  of  the  first  peak  became 
visible,  the  two  together  being  responsible  for  its  name. 
Toward  evening  it  appeared  to  greatest  advantage.  We 
were  then  almost  directly  north  of  it,  and  from  base  to  sum- 
mit it  presented  an  almost  perfect  symmetry.  Above  were 
the  twin  pyramids ;  on  either  flank  was  a  massive  buttress 
stretching  forward  and  outward,  with  a  sharp  downward 
curve  from  the  Mitre  itself,  and  a  shorter  upward  curve  with 
jagged  outlines  to  the  lesser  peaks  at  the  side.  These  fell  in 
sharp  lines  to  the  sea;  and  between  them  they  held,  backed 
by  the  body  of  the  mountain,  an  immense  hollow  basin,  from 
which,  exactly  in  the  middle,  a  line  of  snow  ran  up  at  the 
angle  at  the  back  to  the  notch  between  the  pyramids." 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  143 

VI. 

LIFE    ON    THE    LABRADOR    COAST, 

The  Atlantic  coast  of  Labrador  is  probably  ordinarily 
considered  bleak  and  almost  uninhabited.  In  reality,  it  sup- 
ports a  considerable  population.  In  our  brief  voyage  it 
was  impossible  for  us  to  meet  a  very  large  proportion  of  the 
inhabitants,  or  to  study  them  with  any  large  degree  of  thor- 
oughness. The  present  account  lays  no  claim,  therefore,  to 
careful  scientific  accuracy  and  completeness,  and  does  not 
pretend  to  contain  any  new  contributions  of  value  to  knowl- 
edge. It  aims  rather  to  give  the  impressions  we  gained  of 
the  people  both  from  our  personal  contact  with  them  and  also 
from  the  descriptions  we  received  of  them  from  missionaries 
and  others  whom  we  met.  These  impressions  may  be  inade- 
quate in  some  respects,  in  consequence  of  the  inadequacy  of 
our  sources  of  information.  Yet,  even  so,  it  will  probably 
be  of  interest  to  give  such  account  as  we  can  of  the  condi- 
tions of  life  there  as  we  found  them  or  heard  them  described. 
A  considerable  portion  of  this  section  has  already  appeared 
in  the  Providence  Sunday  Journal,  and  is  here  reprinted  with 
permission,  with  a  considerable  amount  of  additional  detail. 

A  thousand  miles  or  more  of  desolate  seacoast  stretch 
from  St.  John's,  in  Newfoundland  to  Nachvak,  near  the 
northern  end  of  Labrador.  In  the  summer  time  it  is 
crowded  with  fishing  schooners,  whose  crews  toil  laboriously 
for  their  scanty  winter  suppHes.  But  in  the  winter,  except 
for  a  few  widely-separated  and  lonely  settlements  of  hardy 
natives  and  whites,  it  is  inaccessible,  and  given  over  to  the 
undisputed  sway  of  ice  and  snow. 

The  visitor  to  these  shores  finds  much  to  interest  him. 


\ 


144  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expeditian. 

If  he  be  a  lover  of  nature,  he  will  find  few  more  beautiful  and 
attractive  regions  than  this,  with  its  irregular  coastline,  di- 
versified by  rocky  hills,  imposing  cliffs,  and  island-dotted 
bays ;  with  its  many-hued  Arctic  vegetation ;  and  in  the  north 
with  its  deep  fiords  and  huge  mountain  masses.  If  he  be  a 
scientist,  its  plants,  its  geological  formation  and  history,  its 
animal  life,  will  give  him  plentiful  opportunity  for  study  and 
new  discovery.  The  sportsman  will  revel  in  brooks  teeming 
with  trout,  or  may  haply  discover  big  game  worthy  of  his 
rifle.  The  mere  traveler,  seeking  new  sights  and  adven- 
tures, will  come  away  enthusiastic  over  the  novelties  of  a 
summer  in  the  far  north,  where  numberless  icebergs,  a  bril- 
liantly phosphorescent  sea,  a  sky  often  alive  with  wonderful 
quivering  displays  of  auroral  light,  a  season  of  continuous 
autumnal  comfort,  and  the  strange,  impressive  landscapes 
of  a  sub-arctic  country,  have  given  him  a  bountiful  reward 
for  his  journey. 

Yet,  after  all,  wherever  one  may  go,  it  is  the  human  life, 
with  its  varieties  and  occupations,  its  differences  from  our- 
selves, its  triumphs,  vicissitudes,  and  problems,  that  fur- 
nishes the  study  of  most  absorbing  interest.  This  is  cer- 
tainly true  of  Labrador.  Simple,  rugged,  and  primitive,  like 
the  land  they  live  in,  its  people  present  features  of  interest 
alike  to  the  psychologist,  the  anthropologist,  the  student  of 
social  economy  and  conditions — and  naturally,  also,  to  the 
practical  philanthropist. 

Eskimos. — Of  the  aboriginal  inhabitants,  aside  from  the 
Indians  of  the  southerly  interior,  there  are  now  only  about 
?  thousand  Eskimos  along  the  Atlantic  coast.  From  Hope- 
dale  southward  most  of  them  are  of  mixed  blood ;  but  north 
of  there  they  are  said  to  be  almost  entirely  pure  blooded.    We 


Muutli    of    Kogarsuk    (or    Goratsuk )    Kiver.    Nachvak    Bay;    looking 
toward  the  Tallek. 


I'lii.-    Ifbsvuvak :    llu-    Soulhwcst   Ann    of    Xachvak    Bav. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  145 

met  them  frequently  north  of  Hopedale.  Their  present 
southern  Hmit  is  Hamilton  Inlet,  though  in  former  times  they 
are  reported  to  have  spread  as  far  south  as  Massachusetts. 
They  swarmed  over  our  schooner,  peering  curiously  into  all 
its  recesses,  and  offering  their  simple  possessions  in  exchange 
for  tobacco  and  clothing;  and  we  met  many  of  them  in  their 
villages  on  shore.  We  find  them  here  not  in  their  original 
crude  condition,  but  greatly  modified  in  dress,  manners,  and 
customs  by  their  long  contact  with  white  men.  The  Mora- 
vians sent  missionaries  to  these  coasts  more  than  a  century 
and  a  quarter  ago.  In  consequence,  the  Eskimos  who  have 
come  under  their  influence  have  adopted  many  features  of 
civilized  dress,  implements,  and  beliefs.  It  is  only  further 
north  or  west  than  we  penetrated  that  we  find  them  un- 
changed. 

The  men  look  strong  and  sturdy.  They  are  rather 
short,  seeming  to  average  about  five  feet  and  a  half.*  Their 
heads  are  very  long  from  front  to  back,  as  compared  with 
their  breadth;  the  cephalic  index,  according  to  the  anthro- 
pologists, averages  about  75.     Their  faces  are  broad  and 


*  Statements  vary  as  to  their  height.  Low  (loc.  cit.,  p.  52  L)  says : 
"The  males,  as  a  rule,  are  quite  as  tall  as  the  average  white  man,  but 
owing  to  their  broad,  heavy  build,  they  appear  shorter  than  they  really 
are;  and  this  appearance  is  enhanced  by  their  wide  garments  of  hairy  deer 
or  seal  skins.  Where  seen  by  the  writer  .  .  .  several  of  the  men  were 
six  feet  and  upward  in  height,  the  average  height  being  about  six 
feet  five  inches."  Deniker  (The  Races  of  Man,  1900,  p.  578)  gives  the 
average  height  of  twenty-six  measured  Eskimos  of  Labrador  as  five  feet 
two  inches.  Robert  Brown  {Encyd,  Brit.,  VIII,  543)  says  they  measure 
five  feet  four  inches  to  five  feet  ten  inches,  and  in  rare  cases  even  six 
feet.  The  cephalic  index  (Deniker,  p.  587)  is  76.8  for  the  living  subject, 
as  measured  on  614  Eskimos  of  Greenland;  and  for  the  skull  has  been 
found  to  be  72.4  for  31  cases  from  Greenland,  71.3  for  152  cases  from 
Eastern  America  (measurements  of  Davis).  They  are  said  by  Ripley 
{Races  of  Europe,  1899)  to  be  almost  the  longest  headed  race  known. 


146  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

round,  with  projecting  cheek-bones  and  prominent  processes 
at  the  upper  end  of  the  jaw.  They  are  usually  very  fat.  The 
jaws,  or  at  least  the  lips,  are  very  apt  to  be  rather  protu- 
berant. The  eyes  are  narrow.  The  forehead,  usually  cov- 
ered over  with  hair,  is  of  medium  height.  The  hair  is 
straight  and  jet  black,  except  in  the  case  of  the  old  men,  and 
is  worn  long^  cut  ofif  straight  below  the  ears  and  just  above 
the  eyes;  though  some  of  the  younger  men  wear  it  close-cut. 
The  beards  are  very  thin,  and  often  entirely  wanting.  When 
there  is  little  fat  in  the  face  the  prominent  bones,  and  the  deep 
wrinkles  in  old  people,  make  it  of  very  irregular  outline. 
The  eyes  and  the  complexion  are  always  dark,  but  the  latter 
varies  from  the  color  of  a  moderate  sunburn  to  a  much  deeper 
brown.  Where  the  skin  is  not  exposed,  however,  it  is  ap- 
parently as  white  or  rosy  as  that  of  a  white  man. 

The  women  closely  resemble  the  men  in  their  features. 
Their  black  hair  is  done  up  in  a  coil  on  the  head.  Most  of 
them  now  wear  skirts,  especially  when  strangers  are  about, 
though  some  of  them  still  cling  to  deerskin  trousers.  One 
feature  of  their  original  dress  that  they  still  retain,  and  that 
serves  by  its  different  form  to  distinquish  the  men  from  the 
women,  is  the  jacket  or  attigi.  It  is  a  loose  garment,  fur- 
nished with  a  hood  for  both  sexes.  It  is  cut  square  across 
at  the  bottom  for  the  men,  but  for  the  women  ends  below  in 
a  curve  or  tail  both  in  front  and  behind,  the  rear  appendage 
being  much  the  longer.  The  hood  is  often  bordered  with 
fur,  and  in  the  tase  of  the  women  bears  more  or  less  elaborate 
ornamentation.  These  garments  were  doubtless  made  orig- 
inally entirely  of  fur,  but  this  has  now  been  supplanted,  in 
summer  at  least,  by  a  white,  thick,  flannel-like  cloth  supplied 
by  the  missionaries.     The  hood  of  the  women  serves  not  only 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  147 

as  a  head  protection,  but  also  as  a  convenient  receptacle  for 
the  babies. 

These  people  are  of  an  essentially  sanguine  tempera- 
ment. Of  course,  they  differ  much  from  one  another 
individually,  but  there  are  many  traits  that  are  true  of 
them  in  general.  They  are  naturally  cheerful,  merry, 
and  light-hearted.  They  are  fond  of  song  and  music, 
and  have  some  skill  in  its  production.  They  seem  to 
be  often  joking  together;  are  jovial  and  good-natured, 
with  a  well  developed  sense  of  humor.  These  sunny 
qualities  give  place  at  times  to  darker  moods.  Quarrels 
may  arise;  stealing  may  occur,  though  it  is  rare;  murder 
may  be  committed,  but  Mr.  Ford,  of  Nachvak,  has  known 
of  the  occurrence  of  only  three  cases.  Their  emotions  are 
apparently  not  deeply  seated  or  persistent  beyond  the  imme- 
diate presence  of  the  exciting  cause.  They  are  almost  always 
honest  and  peaceable,  and  friendly  to  the  stranger.  Warfare 
is  almost  unknown  among  them.  They  naturally  resent 
injury,  as  when,  as  too  often  happens,  the  Newfoundland 
fishermen  encroach  upon  their  fishing  grounds  or  steal  their 
wood  for  huts;  but  they  rarely  resort  to  violence,  and  when 
this  occurs  it  is  usually  under  the  lead  of  some  one  with  white 
blood  in  his  veins.  They  have  an  excellent  reputation  for 
industry,  are  active,  quick,  enduring.  Whenever  we  em- 
ployed them,  we  found  them  willing  and  eager.  They  lay  by 
little  for  the  future.  When  they  have  plenty  they  are  pretty 
sure  to  be  generous,  and  a  good  hunter  will  support  some- 
times several  families,  the  rest  being  content  tO'  live  lazily 
by  the  exertions  of  the  one.  They  can  be  just  as  greedy  as 
they  are  generous,  when  circumstances  are  different.  They 
have  a  good  average  degree  of  intelligence — a  high  degree, 


148  Report  of  the  Bromn-H award  Expedition. 

it  would  seem,  when  one  considers  the  few  solicitations  to 
thought  and  ingenuity  in  their  environment;  but  their  intelli- 
gence is  combined  naturally  with  a  great  deal  of  superstition. 
They  are  easily  led,  and  their  special  character  and  actions 
depend  much  on  the  nature  of  their  leader.  Yet  they  rarely 
have  any  sort  of  government,  but  live  together  in  tribal  amity 
with  no  chief  or  ruler  unless  one  temporarily  arises  by  virtue 
of  his  own  unusual  gifts  of  wealth  or  wit.  Where  their  primi- 
tive ideas  are  not  weeded  out  by  the  missionaries,  however, 
they  are  largely  in  subjection  to  their  medicine  men  or  sor- 
cerers. 

Where  missionary  influences  prevail  the  marital  relations 
of  the  Eskimos  are  of  the  conventional  civilized  type,  and 
their  sexual  morality  is  of  a  high  order.  But  further  north 
they  vary  much,  each  doing  much  as  he  likes  and  can.  One 
man  may  have  three  or  four  wives ;  and  at  least  one  case  is 
known  where  two  men  have  one  wife  in  common. 

The  life  of  the  Eskimos  is  one  of  hunting  and  fishing. 
They  live  principally  on  a  meat  diet,  consisting  chiefly  of  seal, 
whale,  caribou,  and  fish.  Berries  are  almost  their  only  natu- 
ral vegetable  food,  though  now  they  obtain  also  flour  and 
bread  wnth  considerable  ease.  Formerly  they  did  little  cook- 
ing, but  now  the  introduction  of  civilized  kettles  makes  it 
easier.  They  place  their  main  reliance  on  the  seal,  and  it 
is  hard  to  imagine  how  they  could  continue  to  get  along 
without  it.  It  gives  them  food,  dog  meat,  clothing,  boots, 
tents,  dog  traces,  and  harpoon  lines,  fuel  for  light  and  heat. 
They  have  little  in  the  way  of  implements  and  possessions 
except  such  as  are  needed  for  their  hunting  and  fishing,  for 
clothing,  shelter,  and  food.  Once  they  lived  very  crudely, 
with  no  implements  except  of  stone,  of  bone,  and  of  skins, 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  149 

no  fuel  except  seal  oil,  and  no  domestic  animals  except  their 
mag-nificent  dogs.  One  still  finds  in  old  graves  specimens  of 
these  cruder  implements  formerly  in  use.  But  a  hundred 
years  of  contact  with  the  white  man  have  given  them  many 
of  his  utensils  and  methods.  A  few  useful  articles  remain 
much  as  in  the  days  before  they  knew  the  white  man  and  his 
ways.  One  of  these  is  the  kayak,  a  rapid  and  seaworthy 
canoe  made  of  skin,  entirely  decked  over  except  for  the  round 
hole  in  the  middle  in  which  its  one  occupant  sits.  Another 
is  their  remarkable  harpoon,  whose  barb  detaches  itself  from 
the  handle  when  the  animal  is  hit,  and,  being  attached  to  a 
float  and  drag,  prevents  the  escape  of  their  game.  Still  a 
third  is  the  komatik,  or  dog  sledge,  in  which  the  only  impor- 
tant change  has  been  the  substitution  of  iron  runners  for 
those  of  wood,  bone  or  frozen  mud  formerly  in  use;  though 
runners  of  ivory  or  whalebone  are  also  still  used. 

Most  of  the  Eskimos  now  live  in  small  communities  of 
not  more  than  three  or  four  hundred  about  the  mission  sta- 
tions or  the  posts  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  Usually 
their  crude  houses  are  of  wood  covered  over  on  the  outside 
with  turf;  though  in  some  places  they  are  entirely  of  wood. 
In  former  times  their  central  dwelling  was  constructed  of 
walrus  or  whalebones  covered  over  with  skins,  or  of  an 
underground  excavation,  or  of  a  half-underground,  half-over 
ground  framework  of  stones  covered  with  turf.  One  still 
sees  remnants  of  such  structures.  They  often  leave  these 
more  permanent  dwellings,  however,  and  go  ofif,  in  the  sum- 
mer for  fishing,  in  the  winter  for  hunting  or  sealing.  It  is 
only  on  these  occasions  that  they  now  use  their  snow  houses 
in  winter,  and  in  summer  their  skin  topeks  or  canvas  tents. 

The  conditions  of  their  life,  with  the  continual  necessity 


150  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

of  warm  clothing  and  shelter,  and  the  difficulties  of  obtaining 
warm  water  and  soap,  naturally  render  impossible  any  large 
degree  of  cleanliness.  Yet  they  tolerate  a  rather  unnecessary 
amount  of  filth  and  refuse  in  and  around  their  dwellings, 
which,  with  their  utter  disregard  of  ventilation,  while  less 
offensive  and  less  deleterious  to  their  health  than  the  same 
conditions  would  be  in  a  warmer  climate,  are  nevertheless 
harmful  to  a  considerable  extent. 

Many  of  them  have  considerable  skill  in  making  carvings 
of  the  ivory  of  walrus  tusks.  They  do  not,  however,  possess 
the  fine  feeling  for  ornamentation  and  finish  shown  by  their 
Alaska  kinsmen.  This,  together  with  their  music,  seems  to 
be  their  only  art.  Their  language  is  highly  polysynthetic, 
single  words  of  complex  structure  taking  the  place  of  whole 
sentences.  There  is  a  remarkable  similarity  in  its  dialects 
everywhere,  from  Siberia  to  Greenland.  They  differ  hardly 
more  from  each  other  than  do  English  and  broad  Scotch 
(Keane,  Man,  Past  and  Present,  i8pp),  in  spite  of  the  sepa- 
ration of  some  of  the  tribes  from  each  other  for  perhaps 
thousands  of  years. 

Moravian  Missions  and  Hudson's  Bay  Company  Posts. — 
The  most  important  centres  of  population  in  Labrador  are 
about  these  two  classes  of  posts.  The  Moravians  founded 
Nain  in  1771,  Okkak  in  1776,  Hopedale  in  1782.  Later  they 
established  missions  at  Zoar,  Hebron,  and  Ramah.  Recently 
Zoar  was  given  up,  and  in  1896  a  new  station  was  estab- 
lished at  Mokkovik.  This  last  has  no  Eskimos  about  it,  but 
exists  for  the  benefit  of  the  settlers  between  Rigolet  and 
Hopedale.  Okkak  is  their  largest  settlement,  with  about 
300  Eskimos.  Aside  from  Mokkovik,  Ramah  is  the  smallest, 
with  only  64  Eskimos.     These  stations  carry  on  a  consider- 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  151 

able  amount  of  trading,  in  addition  to  their  work  of  educating 
and  Christianizing  the  natives.  We  made  acquaintance  with 
a  number  of  the  missionaries,  at  Hopedale,  Nain,  Hebron, 
and  Ramah.  They  live  two  or  three  together,  with  their 
families,  at  each  place.  We  found  them  kindly,  earnest, 
helpful  men,  who  are  doing  a  good  work  among  the  Eskimos. 

The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  maintains  a  number  of 
posts  along  the  Atlantic  coast.  We  visited  but  one  of  them, 
that  at  Nachvak.  There  were  but  very  few  Eskimos  en- 
camped about  the  bay — there  are  only  about  80  in  all  be- 
tween Ramah  and  Cape  Chidley.  George  Ford,  the  agent, 
has  lived  at  Nachvak  with  his  family  since  1877.  He  has 
few  visitors.  The  company's  steamer  puts  in  twice  a  year. 
Captain  Bradford,  who  maintains  a  fishing  station  at  Cape 
Chidley,  calls  there  occasionally,  as  does  also  Dr.  Grenfell, 
of  the  Medical  Mission.  Visits  are  usually  interchanged 
with  Ramah  each  winter.  But  otherwise  hardly  any  one 
ever  comes.  Ours  was  the  first  schooner  that  had  been  there 
for  many  years. 

White  Settlers  and  Summer  Fishermen. — There  are  com- 
paratively few  permanent  white  settlers  on  the  Atlantic  coast, 
aside  from  those  connected  with  the  above-mentioned  posts. 
The  total  number  in  Labrador,  from  Blanc  Sablon,  on  the 
shore  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  to  Cape  Chidley,  is  given 
by  the  Newfoundland  census  of  1891  as  3,106.  But  of  these 
probably  not  more  than  one  hundred  live  north  of  Hamilton 
Inlet.  We  met  two  as  far  north  as  Black  Island,  near 
Port  Manvers,  and  none  beyond.  They  support  themselves 
by  trapping  and  fishing.  Their  rude  settlements,  composed 
of  a  few  rough  shanties  and  fishing  stages,  with  possibly  a 
store  and  a  church,  are  fairly  numerous  in  the  south;  though 


152  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

more  often  there  are  only  a  few  scattered  houses,  or,  still 
further  north,  entirely  isolated  homes. 

Their  character  is  well  depicted  by  Low  {loc.  cit.,  p. 
44  L),  as  follows :  "In  spite  of  lack  of  educational  advan- 
tages, nearly  everybody  can  read  and  write,  and  all  are  very 
religious.  As  alcoholic  liquors  are  not  openly  sold  on  the 
Labrador  coast,  cases  of  intoxication  are  exceedingly  rare, 
and  many  of  the  younger  people  do  not  know  the  taste  of 
alcohol.  On  the  whole,  these  people  compare  favorably 
with  those  of  more  civilized  regions,  being  frugal,  moral, 
willing,  good-tempered,  and  naturally  intelligent.  Their 
only  fault,  want  of  thrift  and  providence,  is  largely  due  to 
their  mode  of  living,  absence  from  any  market  of  competitive 
labor,  and  the  system  of  credit  and  debt  under  which  they 
live." 

In  the  spring  and  summer  this  sparse  population  has  a 
large  accession  owing  to  the  temporary  presence  of  a  host 
of  fishermen  from  Newfoundland  in  search  of  seals  or  cod. 
The  census  of  1891  gave  their  number  as  over  13,000,  in- 
cluding the  women  and  children  who  go  with  them.  A  large 
proportion  of  these,  however,  were  on  the  gulf  shore.  In  the 
spring  time,  March  and  April,  they  go  in  large  steamers  for 
the  capture  of  seals  on  the  ice ;  in  the  summer  they  are  there 
in  their  schooners  or  in  rude  shelters  on  the  land  for  cod; 
and  in  the  early  fall  they  secure  herring.  Very  few  of  those 
who  go  down  the  Atlantic  shore  ever  get  beyond  Nain  or 
Port  Manvers.  One  venturesome  man  alone  maintains  a 
fishing  station  at  Cape  Chidley  all  the  year  round,  and  goes 
to  it  every  summer  in  his  steamer.  These  Newfoundlanders 
are  almost  exclusively  of  English  descent,  with  a  queer,  old- 
time  flavor  to  their  speech,  with  an  almost  fanatic  formal 


80 


60 


K^ 


55 


50-- 


Qii 


l-f- 


SmU 


.^. 


E.  B.  Delaharre,  Ph.  D.  153 

piety  and  respect  for  the  Sabbath,  and  with  a  rather  unsavory- 
reputation  for  wrecking  their  vessels  in  order  to  collect  the 
insurance  on  them.  In  the  latter  respect,  however,  it  is 
doubtless  the  few  whose  misdeeds  darken  the  reputation  of 
the  many. 

General  Conditions  of  Life. — Along  the  southern  part  of 
the  coast  these  numerous  visitors  and  the  regular  fortnightly 
trips  of  the  mail  steamer  in  summer  give  fairly  good  com- 
munication with  the  outside  world.  But  both  mail  and  fish-' 
ermen  venture  only  a  part  of  the  way,  and  those  who  live 
farther  north  see  only  the  rare  vessels  of  the  missionaries  and 
of  the  trading  company.  The  land  is  too  cold  and  barren 
to  permit  any  occupations  other  than  those  of  the  hunter, 
the  fisherman,  and  the  trader.  The  conditions  of  life  are 
therefore  extremely  simple,  and  are  naturally  in  many  re- 
spects hard  and  often  pitiful.  The  winters  are  long  and  cold, 
while  fuel  and  food  to  contend  with  their  severity  are  scanty 
and  difficult  to  obtain.  The  struggle  for  bare  subsistence 
gives  at  the  best  so  narrow  a  margin  of  surplus  that  a  bad 
season,  or  the  loss  of  the  supporting  members  of  a  family, 
occasions  frequent  cases  of  absolute  destitution.  Neighbors 
are  few  and  far  away.  During  the  long  periods  when  no 
work  is  possible,  with  little  stimulus  in  the  way  of  books  or 
games,  there  must  be  a  great  dreariness  to  life;  and  dreari- 
ness usually  involves  much  of  moral  and  intellectual  debase- 
ment. 

Ignorance  of  hygienic  and  medical  principles  leads  to 
a  great  amount  of  suffering.  Accidents  often  happen  and 
are  always  serious.  Many  a  gunshot  wound  that  under 
proper  treatment  might  have  been  easily  healed  has  left  the 
only  provider  for  a  family  a  permanent  cripple.     At  least  one 


154  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

case  is  known  of  a  father  chopping  off  with  an  ax  the  legs  of 
his  child,  because  they  had  become  gangrenous  as  a  result 
of  a  frost-bite.  Wounds,  epidemics,  and  diseases  of  all  kinds 
are  terrible  misfortunes,  and  the  loss  of  life,  the  blindness 
and  crippling,  the  suffering  and  destitution,  that  result  from 
them  are  considerable.  Conditions  in  these  respects  are  im- 
proving, however,  through  influences  yet  to  be  mentioned. 

There  is  still  another  unfortunate  condition  that  leads 
to  much  hardship.  A  large  proportion  of  the  people  are 
practically  slaves  to  the  traders,  who  charge  outrageous 
prices  for  supplies  and  give  small  returns  for  fish  and  furs. 
The  winter's  provisions  are  often  secured  only  at  the  price  of 
the  next  season's  entire  catch  of  fish.  It  naturally  follows 
that  effort  is  discouraged,  and  the  people  become  continually 
more  and  more  buried  in  debt,  with  all  the  demoralizing  con- 
sequences of  such  a  condition.* 

Thus,  along  with  the  more  attractive  phases  presented 
by  this  pioneer  life,  there  is  a  large  admixture  of  misfortune 
and  difficulty.  A  great  deal  of  the  latter  is  not  incapable  of 
improvement,  and  there  are  several  influences  that  tend  to 
raise  conditions  to  a  better  level.  The  Moravian  Missions 
and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  are  civilizing  forces.  But 
their  trading  policy  is  one  that  increases  rather  than  relieves 
the  debt-slavery.  Moreover,  these  missions  are  confined  to 
the  Eskimo,  and  do  not  reach  the  other  settlers.  The  most 
promising  and  interesting  feature  connected  with  human  ex- 
istence in  Labrador  is  furnished  by  the  personality  of  Dr. 


*  This  condition  of  debt-slavery  and  its  evil  results  are  mentioned  by 
several  observers.  Stearns  (Labrador,  1884)  speaks  of  the  credit  system 
as  a  great  source  of  misery  to  the  Indians.  Compare  Low,  loc  cit.,  p.  42 
L,  44  L. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  155 

Grenfell,  and  the  work  of  the  mission  of  which  he  is  super- 
intendent. This  is  the  Labrador  Medical  Mission,  a  branch 
of  the  Mission  to  Deep  Sea  Fishermen. 

TJie  Labrador  Medical  Mission. — Nothing  could  be  more 
practical  and  truly  helpful  than  the  way  this  mission  sets  to 
work.  It  is  purely  non-sectarian  and  reaches  and  is  warmly 
welcomed  by  Catholics  and  Protestants  alike.  Its  aim  is  not 
primarily  the  preaching  of  religion,  though  strong  religious 
influences  of  the  best  sort  emanate  from  it  in  the  most 
efifective  way  possible,  through  the  example  and  unselfish 
helpfulness  of  its  tireless  workers.  The  direct  object  at 
which  it  aims,  and  toward  which  it  is  making  large  progress, 
is  the  uplifting  of  the  people,  both  native  and  white,  to  a 
higher  grade  of  hygienic,  social,  economic,  intellectual,  and 
moral  development. 

The  first  task  attempted  by  this  mission  was  that  of  pro- 
viding medical  and  surgical  aid.  In  this  direction  it  has  ac- 
complished a  great  deal.  It  has  now  two  hospitals  with 
doctors  and  nurses  on  the  Labrador  coast,  one  at  Battle 
Harbor  and  one  at  Indian  Harbor.  These  are  insufficient 
for  all  needs,  and  a  third  will  soon  be  established.  Besides 
these,  a  floating  hospital  is  maintained  on  the  "Strathcona,"* 

*  The  following  description  of  this  steamer,  from  the  London  Graphic 
of  July  27th,  I  take  from  the  organ  of  the  Mission  to  Deep  Sea  Fishermen, 
Toilers  of  the  Deep,  September,  1901,  p.  223 : — 

"The  S.  S.  'Strathcona'  is  a  steel  steamer  with  sufficient  sail  area  to 
enable  her  to  be  handled  without  her  propeller,  being  ketch-rigged  after 
the  manner  of  English  trawlers.  She  is  eighty-four  tons  capacity,  and 
is  fitted  with  a  hospital  amidships.  She  was  designed  and  built  at  Dart- 
mouth, England,  and  came  out  under  her  own  steam  to  Newfoundland. 
Though  a  small  boat  for  so  long  a  journey,  she  only  took  ten  and  a  half 
days  from  the  Fastnet  Light  to  North  Newfoundland,  and  so  economical 
is  she  with  coal  that  her  deck  cargo  of  coal  almost  sufficed  to  cross  the 
Atlantic  with,  in  spite  of  the  heavy  westerly  winds  she  had  to  encounter 


156  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

a  fine  steamer  recently  given  to  the  mission  largely  through 
the  generosity  of  Lord  Strathcona,  of  Canada,  who  was  him- 
self once  an  agent  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  in  Labra- 
dor. In  this  steamer  Dr.  Grenfell  patrols  the  coast  of  New- 
foundland and  Labrador  during  the  summer,  carrying  aid  to 
all  in  need  of  his  services,  and  transporting  to  the  shore  hos- 
pitals the  cases  that  require  it.  During  the  winter  navigation 
is  impossible,  but  the  hospitals  are  kept  open  and  a  doctor 
from  them  travels  by  dog  sledge  about  the  country.  About 
a  thousand  cases,  counting  both  in  and  out  patients,  have 
been  cared  for  in  the  two  hospitals  each  year,  and  another 
thousand  on  the  steamer.  Last  year  the  number  was  801  on 
shore  and  1,072  on  the  ship,  together  with  150  by  aid  of  a 
launch.  Numbers  like  these  show  how  great  and  indis- 
pensable a  blessing  this  service  is  to  fishermen,  settlers,  and 
natives. 

In  another  way  Dr.  Grenfell  gives  promise  of  greatly 
benefiting  these  people.  Realizing  their  unfortunate  slavery 
to  the  traders  and  the  unhappy  effect  of  this  hopeless  loss  of 


on  the  passage.  She  is  designed  to  act  under  the  management  of  the 
Royal  National  Mission  to  Deep  Sea  Fishermen  as  a  floating  hospital, 
moving  from  place  to  place  along  the  bleak  coast  of  Labrador.  No  medical 
man  dwells  anywhere  along  that  vast  coast  line,  and  its  scattered  people, 
who  amount  to  several  thousand,  have  no  skilled  help  in  accident  or  illness, 
except  what  this  boat  affords.  The  'Strathcona'  is  admirably  adapted 
for  her  work.  She  is  fitted  with  all  the  necessities  for  modern  surgery, 
including  electric  light  and  a  fine  X-ray  instalment,  so  that  in  the  fre- 
quent accidents  that  a  fishing  and  hunting  life  expose  the  people  to  they 
may  have  the  best  assistance  science  can  afford.  In  her  first  season,  last 
year,  over  a  thousand  people  sought  assistance  on  board  her.  The  little 
steamer  lies  up  all  winter  in  the  ice,  as  the  sea  in  these  regions  freezes 
over  from  December  to  June.  A  doctor  is  kept  there  by  the  Mission  in  a 
small  hospital  on  a  central  part  of  the  coast,  and  with  his  dogs  and 
sleigh  he  travels  from  settlement  to  settlement.  The  ship  has  now  just 
refitted  and  sailed  for  the  coast." 


E.  B.  Delaharre,  Ph.  D.  157 

independence,  he  is  attempting  to  alter  the  economic  con- 
ditions of  the  coast.  For  this  purpose  he  establishes  co- 
operative stores  with  reasonable  prices  to  compete  with  the 
extortions  of  the  traders.  With  flour  at  $12  a  barrel,  pork 
at  $40,  brown  sugar  at  20  cents  a  pound,  and  other  things  in 
proportion,  and  with  low  returns  for  his  own  produce,  the 
settler  cannot  be  independent.  The  new  stores  are  cutting 
these  prices  to  a  more  reasonable  level,  and  at  the  same  time 
affording  better  facilities  for  disposing  of  the  fish  and  se- 
curing better  prices  for  them.  A  new  industry  made  possi- 
ble b}^  the  mission  is  contributing  to  improvement  in  the 
same  line.  The  mission  steamer  and  the  hospitals  consume 
much  wood  as  fuel,  and  wood  is  needed  for  buildings  and 
other  purposes.  This  can  be  prepared  to  a  large  extent 
during  the  dull  season  of  the  fisheries,  and  thus  the  industry 
of  the  people  is  fostered  and  their  incomes  increased.  The 
mission  is  now  trying  at  a  considerable  cost  to  establish  a 
saw  mill,  and  also  to  extend  the  number  and  success  of  the 
stores  and  provide  them  with  ships  of  their  own  for  carrying 
supplies  and  for  transporting  fish  to  the  markets. 

Besides  these  good  works,  Dr.  Grenfell  is  a  father  to  all 
the  orphans  of  the  coast,  and  relieves  all  possible  cases  of 
need.  He  distributes  books  and  teaches  the  people  active 
games.  His  influence  over  them  is  enormous,  as  a  result  of 
his  great  helpfulness  and  interest  in  them.  In  all  these 
various  ways  he  is  improving  their  social  and  moral,  at  the 
same  time  with  their  material,  conditions. 

To  the  members  of  the  Brown-Harvard  expedition  to 
Labrador  last  summer,  this  mission  was  a  revelation  as  to 
the  possibilities  of  a  wisely-conducted,  practical  philanthropy. 
It  is  undoubtedly  the  most  important  and  promising  feature 


158  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

connected  with  life  on  the  Atlantic  side  of  Newfoundland 
and  Labrador,  being  an  economic  and  moral  force  of  the 
greatest  significance. 


VII. 

SCIENTIFIC    RESULTS    OF    THE    EXPEDITION. 

The  points  at  which  we  touched  on  our  voyages  north 
and  south  were  so  numerous  and  so  close  together  that  they 
gave  us  a  very  thorough  idea  of  the  character  of  the  coast 
we  were  investigating  in  its  different  parts.  The  structure 
and  appearance  of  the  country  vary  considerably  in  different 
regions;  but  probably  very  few  of  the  prominent  differences 
escaped  us.  We  anchored  at  twenty-eight  different  places 
along  the  seven  hundred  miles  of  coast.  At  almost  every 
one  of  these  places  we  went  ashore,  either  for  a  single  even- 
ing's observations,  or  often  during  several  days  while  imme- 
diate further  progress,  for  one  reason  or  another,  was  im- 
possible. We  got  acquainted  also  with  six  localities  in  New- 
foundland in  a  similar  way.  At  some  places  we  covered  a 
considerable  inland  territory  in  our  investigations.  Thus  at 
St.  Lewis  Sound  we  went  in  a  rowboat  several  miles  up  one 
of  the  rivers;  at  Aillik  several  of  us  took  a  long  walk,  extend- 
ing almost  to  the  head  of  Mokkovik  Bay;  at  Port  Man  vers 
two  of  the  party  were  encamped  for  a  month;  between 
Hebron  and  Nachvak  two  of  us  covered  the  entire  inter- 
vening country  on  foot;  and  at  Nachvak  we  made  a  thorough 
exploration  of  the  shores,  and  walked  several  miles  inland  to 
the  north. 

We  were  thus  enabled  to  accomplish  a  very  creditable 
amount  of  scientific  observation  along  the  lines  for  which  we 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  159 

were  equipped.  The  work  undertaken  by  Dr.  Daly  in  par- 
ticular was  exceedingly  careful  and  thorough,  and  his  ob- 
servations contain  much  that  is  new  and  valuable.  Our  re- 
sults have  not  yet  been  completely  worked  out,  so  that  it 
is  possible  to  give  of  some  of  them  only  an  incomplete  sum- 
mary. Our  very  numerous  oceanographic  data  have  hardly 
yet  been  touched,  and  the  examinations  of  botanical  speci- 
mens, especially  of  the  cryptogams,  are  not  yet  finished. 
I  shall  give  in  a  few  brief  paragraphs  an  outline  of  our  re- 
sults, so  far  as  we  know  them,  and  then  append  the  special 
reports  on  botany,  ornithology,  and  geology,  the  two  latter 
by  Mr.  Bigelow  and  Dr.  Daly  respectively.  More  extended 
reports  will  be  published  later  in  appropriate  places. 

(a)  Meteorology. — Regular  observations  were  made 
of  air-pressure,  humidity,  and  temperature,  of  the  state  of 
clouds,  fog,  and  sunshine.  The  results  of  these  observations 
have  already  been  given  in  Section  II.  Their  scientific 
value  is  unfortunately  not  large,  because  of  some  degree  of 
irregularity  in  time  of  observations,  of  inaccuracy  in  records, 
and  of  inadequacy  of  apparatus.  The  regular  observations 
made  by  the  missionaries  at  some  of  their  stations  are  of 
much  greater  value.  These  of  ours  can  serve  only  to  give 
an  approximately  correct  idea  of  the  conditions  under  which 
our  voyage  was  made. 

(b)  Geography. — We  made  thorough  acquaintance 
with  the  scenery,  structure,  topography,  and  life  of  probably 
most  of  the  typical  sections  of  the  Atlantic  coast.  Although 
all  the  country  we  visited  is  well  known  to  many  individuals, 
and  we  made  no  really  new  discoveries,  yet  much  of  it  has 
not  found  its  way  into  scientific  or  popular  description.  We 
ascended  one  mountain  that  probably  has  never  before  been 


i6o  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

climbed,  and  our  determination  of  its  height  makes  of  it  the 
most  elevated  measured  height  in  Labrador.  We  also 
named  a  few  hitherto  unlabeled  mountains.  The  names  that 
we  particularly  desire  to  see  retained  are  these:  (i)  Mt. 
Elizabeth;  this  rises  to  the  height  of  2,800  feet,  directly  be- 
hind the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  post  at  Nachvak,  to  the 
north  and  northwest  of  it.  (2)  Mt.  Ford  (3,900  feet),  north 
and  east  of  the  latter.  Both  of  these  descend  close  to  the 
waters  of  Nachvak  Bay,  on  its  northern  shore,  and  are  bor- 
dered on  the  west  by  the  Goratsuk*  valley.  (3)  Fall  Moun- 
tain (3,500  feet);  directly  north  of  Mt.  Ford,  separated  from 
the  latter  by  the  Shenukatikt  valley,  and  marked  by  a  prom- 
inent waterfall  on  its  southern  face.  (4)  Mt.  Faunce  (4,400 
feet);  running  off  from  near  the  summit  of  Fall  Mountain 
toward  the  north,  and  connected  with  the  latter  by  a  narrow 
neck.  (5)  Mt.  Eliot  (estimated  from  the  summits  of  Mts. 
Ford  and  Faunce  as  exceeding  5,000  feet);  immediately  east 
of  Mts.  Fall  and  Faunce,  its  peak  lying  in  close  proximity 
to  that  of  the  latter.  (6)  Brave  Mountain  (estimated  as 
3,700  to  3,800  feet) ;  the  highest  peak  of  the  groupl  just  west 
of  the  Bishop's  Mitre  at  Cape  Mugford;  known  sometimes 
to  fishermen  as  "the  Cod-bag."  (7)  Mt.  Packard,  the 
highest  peak  of  the  Kiglapait  group.  (8)  The  Torngat 
Mountain  Range,  a  name  to  be  appHed  to  the  entire  system 
of  mountains  extending  from  Hebron  to  Cape  Chidley. 

(c)  Photography. — Our  photographs  of  the  country 
and  its  people  are  many  of  them  excellent,  adding  somewhat 
to  accurate  knowledge  of  the  appearance  of  those  regions. 

*  Or,  Kogarsuk. 

t  Or,  Sennerkitte. 

t  The  Kaumajet  Mountain  Group. 


The   Tallek:   tlie    South   Arm   of  Nachvak    Bav. 


^founts    Fall.    Faunof,    and    F.liot,    as    seen    from    the    Summit 
of  Mt.   Ford. 


E.  B.  Delaba/rre,  Ph.  D.  i6i 

{d)  Anthropology. — We  made  no  contributions  to 
knowledge  in  this  line,  but  brought  back  with  us  a  few 
articles  illustrative  of  the  present  and  past  life  of  the 
Eskimos.  To  the  Peabody  Museum  of  Harvard  University 
we  presented  a  large  and  unusually  interesting  ancient  stone 
lamp  and  a  pair  of  fire-stones;  and  to  the  Anthropological 
Museum  of  Brown  University  a  number  of  medicine-charms 
(said  by  Mr.  Ford  to  have  been  presented  to  him  by  an 
Eskimo  chief,  Idualuk,  from  Akpatok  Island,  who  at  one 
time  practiced  cannibalism),  and  of  grave  relics,  the  latter  in- 
cluding ancient  stone  lamps,  cooking  pots,  knives  and 
scraping  tools,  bird-darts,  harpoon  points,  etc.  The  fire- 
stones  are  of  a  type  new  to  us.  They  are  two  small,  round 
stones  of  soft  material,  in  which  are  embedded  great  num- 
bers of  minute  fragments  of  iron  pyrites.  In  use,  accord- 
ing to  Mr.  Townley,  the  missionary  at  Hebron,  who  gave 
them  to  us,  these  stones  are  knocked  together  rapidly  over  a 
quantity  of  the  cotton  from  a  plant  common  in  that  country 
{Eriophonim,  of  which  there  are  several  species).  Fine 
particles,  warmed  by  the  knocking  process,  fall  from  the 
stones  into  the  cotton,  which  is  then  rubbed  and  blown  into 
a  blaze. 

{e)  Psychology. — While  our  stay  was  too  short  and 
our  acquaintance  with  the  people  of  the  coast  too  super- 
ficial to  permit  of  the  gathering  of  any  new  facts  of  value 
in  regard  to  their  character  and  mental  habits,  yet  from  ob- 
servation and  conversation  we  gained  a  fairly  good  impres- 
sion of  the  general  nature  and  conditions  of  life  there;  and 
I  have  endeavored  to  give  expression  to  this  impression  in 
the  preceding  section. 

{f)  Entomology. — There    was   no   one   in    our   party 


i62  Report  of  the  Br oiun-H award  Expedition. 

fitted  to  make  studies  in  this  line;  consequently,  we  collected 
but  very  few  specimens.  One  among  them,  however, 
turned  out  to  be  of  interest.  Dr.  Packard  reports  upon  it 
as  follows :  * 

"Last  summer,  Prof.  E.  B.  Delabarre,  during  his  ex- 
pedition to  Northern  Labrador,  observed  and  collected  some 
locusts,  and  kindly  presented  me  with  three  specimens. 
One  is  from  Nachvak,  collected  at  a  point  two  miles  inland 
from  the  harbor,  and  two  others  at  Cape  Mugford,  directly 
on  the  coast,  at  a  point  300  to  400  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  The  locusts  were  common  locally,  in  spots.  Dr.  Scud- 
der  has  kindly  identified  them  as  Melanoplus  extremus  juniiis. 
This  is  its  first  occurrence  in  the  Labrador  peninsula,  the 
species  occurring  throughout  British  America  and  on  the 
summit  of  Mt.  Washington,  N.  H." 

{g)  Botany. — Botanical  collections  were  made  in  a 
great  many  localities,  and  many  records  were  made  of  the 
growths  in  localities  whose  varieties  were  not  fully  collected. 
Though  the  writer  can  lay  no  claim  to  skill  in  this  science, 
yet  it  was  possible  for  him  to  identify  a  large  number  of  the 
more  common  plants;  and  whenever  there  was  any  doubt, 
specimens  were  preserved.  The  plants  of  this  collection 
have  been  submitted  to  various  authorities  for  determina- 
tion. A  list  of  them,  containing  very  nearly  three 
hundred  names,  to  which  the  unexamined  mosses  are  yet 
to  be  added,  is  given  in  the  next  section.  Most  of  these 
have  been  reported  previously  as  occurring  in  Labrador.  A 
considerable  addition  is  made  by  us,  however,  to  the  list  of 
definite  localities;  and  over  twenty  species  of  phenogamous 

*  "Occurrence  of  Melanoplus  extremus  in   Northern  Labrador."     By 
A.  S.  Packard,  Psyche,  April  1901,  p.  191. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  163 

plants  are  now  reported  for  the  first  time  from  the  Labrador 
coast.  One  of  the  latter  has  never  before  been  known  east 
of  Manitoba;  four  are  reported  by  us  further  north  and  one 
further  south  than  their  previously-announced  limits;  nine 
are  new  to  the  coast,  but  have  been  found  previously  in 
other  parts  of  the  Labrador  peninsula;  while  two  others 
have  been  reported  thus  far  only  vaguely  from  the  "coast," 
without  definite  locality.  Of  plants  previously  recorded 
from  definite  localities,  two  have  their  known  limits  now  ex- 
tended somewhat  to  the  north,  and  one  to  the  south;  while 
nearly  fifty  have  been  reported  previously  by  a  single 
authority  only,  and  are  now  confirmed.  Of  the  mosses,  nine 
are  new  to  the  Labrador  peninsula,  and  eleven  are  now  first 
given  definite  locality  on  the  coast;  while  nearly  half  the 
specimens  are  yet  to  be  examined.  Seven  new  hepatics  are 
named,  three  of  them,  as  yet,  doubtfully.  Five  lichens  are 
new  to  the  country.  Of  the  fungi,  all,  so  far  as  can  be 
determined  from  the  authorities  consulted,  are  new.  For 
greater  detail  concerning  these  matters,  reference  must  be 
made  to  the  following  section. 

(h)  Ornithology. — Henry  W.  Bigelow  kept  a  careful 
list  of  all  the  birds  he  saw,  and  of  the  localities  where  they 
occurred.  His  month  on  shore  at  Port  Manvers  made 
possible  an  exhaustive  study  of  that  locality.  None  of  his 
birds  are  new,  but  several  are  rare  on  the  Labrador  coast. 
His  report  will  be  found  in  Section  IX.* 

(i)  Economic  Mineralogy. — Adams  and  McCornick 
gave  particular  attention  to  the  search  for  mineral  deposits 

*  A  still  later  report  by  Mr.  Bigelow,  identical  in  its  list  of  birds  with 
the  one  given  in  Section  IX,  will  be  found  in  Auk,  1902,  Vol.  XXVII, 
pp.  24-31. 


164  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

of  economic  value.  Most  of  their  results  in  this  line  were 
of  a  negative  nature.  Probably  the  great  mass  of  the 
country  would  not  repay  further  investigation.  It  contains 
large  quantities  of  iron  ore,  some  copper,  some  mica,  and 
some  asbestos.  It  is  not  probable  that  any  of  these  could 
be  worked  to  advantage.  Our  conclusion  was  that  the  only 
localities  that  would  be  worth  prospecting  further  are  the 
vicinity  of  Nain,  and  some  300  square  miles  about  Mugford 
and  Nachvak.  In  the  former  place  precious  labradorite 
occurs,  doubtless  in  other  situations  than  those  already  dis- 
covered. In  the  latter  region  the  structure  of  the  country 
is  such  as  to  admit  the  possibility  of  other  valuable  finds. 
Pure  graphite  has  been  discovered  about  Nachvak  Bay  (see 
Daly,  Geology  of  the  Northeast  Coast  of  Labrador,  p.  234). 

(/)  Oceanography. — Dr.  Daly  made  studies  of  the 
Labrador  current;  sounded  and  charted  Nachvak  Bay,  find- 
ing it  a  typical  fiord,  no  fathoms  at  the  deepest  part,  and, 
therefore,  the  deepest  measured  bay  in  Labrador;  and  made 
almost  daily  observations  of  the  temperature  and  salinity  of 
the  sea-water  at  different  depths.  Among  his  results  were 
the  determination  of  a  temperature  of  29.6°  F.  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  Straits  of  Belle  Isle,  and  of  29°  F.  in  the  depths 
of  Nachvak  Bay.  These  studies  were  carefully  made  and 
will  be  valuable;  but  their  results  have  not  yet  been  su^- 
ciently  computed  for  any  report  upon  them  at  present.  Be- 
sides their  value  as  mere  oceanographic  data,  they  also  fur- 
nish material  to  some  extent  for  study  of  conditions  of  life 
among  the  cod,  a  matter  of  practical  importance  in  which 
Dr.  Daly  was  largely  interested. 

(k)  Geology. — Dr.  Daly  was  a  tireless  worker  in  this 
field.     He  devoted  attention  to  many  different  lines  of  study, 


E.  B.  Delaharre,  Ph.  D.  165 

and  made  discoveries  that  will  form  large  contributions  to 
geological  knowledge  of  Labrador.  Among  the  many 
special  subjects  which  he  investigated  were  the  following:* 

(i)  Phenomena  of  former  submergence  and  subsequent 
uplift  of  the  coast.  This  has  occurred  since  the  glacial 
epoch,  and  not  to  the  same  extent  on  different  parts  of  the 
coast.  There  is  a  maximum  of  uplift  in  the  vicinity  of  Hope- 
dale  (390  feet),  whence  its  amount  diminishes  steadily  toward 
the  north,  being  250  feet  at  Nachvak,  and  toward  the  south 
to  a  minimum  about  Hamilton  Inlet  (260  feet).  From  the 
latter  it  again  increases  southw^ard  to  another  maximum  in 
Newfoundland,  attaining  575  feet  at  St.  John's.  The  de- 
termination of  these  facts  has  involved: 

First,  a  study  of  raised  beaches  and  other  elevated  re- 
sults of  the  former  contact  of  land  and  sea.  The  heights 
of  a  great  many  of  these  were  measured,  and  an  attempt  to 
correlate  them  led  to  the  opinion  that  they  were  not  formed 
at  corresponding  heights  in  the  different  localities  by  rela- 
tively long  pauses  in  the  process  of  uplift,  as  has  been  sur- 
mised; but  that  their  particular  heights  are  due  to  local  con-, 
ditions  of  exposure  and  rock-resistance,  and  need  not  cor- 
respond in  height  in  the  different  localities. 

Second,  the  discovery  of  a  criterion  for  determining  the 
upper  limit  of  former  submergence.  This  was  found  in  the 
boundary  between  the  boulder-strewn  upper  and  the 
boulder-free  low^er  zone,  the  former  having  evidently  never 

*  This  outline  was  given  to  me  by  Dr.  Daly  immediately  after  our 
return  from  Labrador,  and  is  subject  to  any  corrections  that  may  appear 
in  his  own  account  of  his  results.  These  have  now  been  given  in  his 
"Geology  of  the  Northeast  Coast  of  Labrador,"  Bulletin  of  the  Museum 
of  Comparative  Zoology  at  Harvard  College,  Vol.  XXXVIH,  February, 
1892,  pp.  205-270. 


1 66  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

been  subjected  to  sea-action  since  the  boulders  were  de- 
posited during  the  glacial  epoch.  This  criterion  was  inde- 
pendently discovered  by  Dr.  Daly,  though  he  finds  that  it  is 
not  the  first  time  that  it  has  been  used. 

Third,  the  measurement  of  the  upper  limit  of  sub- 
mergence. This  was  accomplished  at  almost  all  the  local- 
ities we  visited,  with  the  results  outlined  above. 

(2)  Phenomena  of  glaciation.  In  this  field  many  new 
discoveries  were  made,  including: 

First,  large  numbers  of  heretofore  unobserved  glacial 
strise  and  grooves. 

Second,  a  considerable  number  of  terminal  and  lateral 
moraines,  whose  existence  in  Labrador  had  been  doubted. 

Third,  an  upper  limit  to  the  extent  of  general  glaciation 
among  the  higher  mountains  of  the  north.  Above  2,100  feet 
there  are  no  traces  of  alteration  by  the  ice-sheet. 

Fourth,  numerous  new  localities  where  lunoid  mark- 
ings occur,  and  an  adequate  theory  of  their  origin,  together 
with  definite  proof  of  their  connection  with  the  movements 
of  the  ice  in  the  glacial  epoch. 

Fifth,  a  great  many  fine  examples  of  hanging  valleys 
in  the  vicinity  of  Nachvak — an  efifect  of  glacial  action  not 
previously  known  to  exist  in  Labrador. 

Sixth,  the  determination  of  the  direction  of  movement 
of  the  main  ice-sheet  in  the  different  localities;  and  evidence 
that  in  the  vicinity  of  Nachvak  the  glaciers  followed  the  trend 
of  the  local  valleys,  not  covering  the  tops  of  the  mountains. 

(3)  The  discovery  of  sedimentary  rocks  in  localities 
where  none  had  been  known  previously;  as,  for  example,  the 
breccias  of  Pomiadluk  Point  and  the  broad  region  of  slate, 
sandstone,  and  conglomerate  on  either  side  of  Ramah. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  167 

(4)  A  collection  for  further  study  of  all  the  eruptive 
rocks  found  on  the  coast.  These  include  also  specimens  of 
the  unique  volcanic  bombs  occurring-  at  Kirpon  in  New- 
foundland. 

(5)  An  interpretation  of  the  scenery,  with  reference  to : 
First,  rock-structure;  this  included  the  determination  of 

the  strike-lines  of  the  rocks,  resulting  in  the  discovery  that 
the  coast-line  follows  the  strike  on  the  Atlantic  border,  and 
thus  corroborating  the  theory  that  Labrador  has  nothing  to 
do  with  the  Appalachian  system. 

Second,  submergence  in  its  effects  on  a  glaciated  land- 
scape. 

Dr.  Daly  himself  reports  on  these  matters  in  greater 
detail  in  Section  X. 


VIII. 

REPORT    ON    BOTANY. 

Vegetation  in  Labrador  pushes  up  in  great  abundance 
with  the  first  disappearance  of  the  snows.  Throughout  the 
summer  and  early  autumn  all  the  country  is  thickly  covered 
with  vigorous  plant  life  and  adorned  with  a  great  multitude 
of  flowers  from  which  it  gains  a  large  variety  in  coloring. 
Only  where  snow-drifts  linger,  or  where  bare  rock  masses 
protrude,  or  on  the  higher  slopes  and  summits,  are  these 
growths  absent.  Near  the  coast  the  growth  is  never  high. 
Extensive  evergreen  forests  exist  in  the  interior,  even  as  far 
north  as  the  latitude  of  Nachvak,  according  to  George  Ford 
of  that  place.  But  in  the  mountainous  region  bordering  on 
the  sea  trees  grow  only  in  sheltered  nooks  and  valleys,  and 


1 68  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

rarely  in  large  groups  except  fairly  well  in  from  the  coast.* 
We  found,  for  instance,  spruces  growing  to  lo  feet  in  height 
a  little  way  up  the  St.  Charles  River,  and  it  is  reported  that 
far  up  St.  Lewis  Inlet  they  are  large  enough  for  ship-timber. 
In  the  ravines  on  the  shore  of  Aillik  Bay  and  in  a  low,  flat 
valley  at  its  head,  we  noticed  considerable  groups  of  trees, 
including  willows  ip  feet  and  spruce  30  feet  high.  Still  fur- 
ther inland,  along  the  shores  and  near  the  head  of  Mokkovik 
Bay,  there  were  somewhat  extensive  thick  groves  in  which 
spruce  attained  the  height  of  perhaps  50  feet.  Back  of  the 
mission  station  at  Hopedale  is  a  large  grove  of  larch;  and  at 
Nain  another  of  various  evergreens.  These  were  the  only 
places  where  we  encountered  trees  of  any  size.  Elsewhere 
we  found  only  scattered,  stunted  trees,  or  scrub  growths 
that  were  very  rarely  thick  enough  to  cause  any  difficulty  in 
walking.  Black  and  white  spruce,  dwarf  birch,  and  various 
willows  were  the  most  common  forms,  with  larch,  juniper, 
balsam  fir,  and  alder  also  occurring.  Hebron  is,  apparently, 
the  northern  limit  of  evergreens  near  the  coast,  for  north  of 
it  we  saw  none  of  them  at  all,  even  on  our  walk  a  considerable 
distance  inland.  Alder,  birch,  and  willows  still  grew  vigor- 
ously, the  latter  attaining  the  height  of  seven  or  eight  feet  in 
moist  hollows  near  Nachvak  Bay. 

The  great  mass  of  the  vegetation  of  Labrador  consists 
of  low  forms.  It  grows  so  thickly  and  vigorously  in  the 
thin  soil,  however,  that  the  country  never  gives  the  im- 
pression of  being  lifeless  and  barren.  In  the  far  south, 
especially  on  moist  lowlands,  Sphagnum  is  often  a  prevail- 
ing growth.     But  aside  from  its  rather  rare  supremacy,  al- 

*  See  Low,  Annual  Report,  Geol.  Surv.  Can.,  VIII,  31  L;  quoted  in  full 
in  Section  V  of  this  report. 


i 


A'itw   to   the    Southeast   from   the   Summit   of   Mt.    Fauuce. 


View   to   the    South   from   the    Sumniit    of   Mt.    Faunee. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  169 

most  everywhere  we  went  we  found  the  curlew-berry  {Em- 
petrum  nigrum)  and  the  so-called  caribou-moss  (Cladonia, 
really  a  white  lichen)  together  forming  an  almost  continuous 
green  and  gray  sward,  touched  with  red  in  the  autumn.  The 
berries  of  the  curlew  are  exceedingly  numerous,  and  those 
of  the  previous  season  still  cling  thickly  to  the  vine  among 
the  green  new  ones,  and  even  until  the  latter  begin  to  ripen 
in  the  middle  of  August.  In  the  midst  of  this  continuous 
curlew  and  moss  grow  occasional  clumps  of  grasses  of  many 
kinds,  and  a  great  variety  of  flowering  plants.  Perhaps  the 
most  common  of  the  latter  are  the  Ericaccce.  Some  of  them 
are  berry-bearing,  with  inconspicuous  flowers,  particularly 
the  blueberry  {Vaccinium  Peimsylvanicum  and  V.  uligi- 
nosum),  the  mountain  cranberry  {V.  Vitis-Idcea),  and  the 
bearberry  {Arctostaphylos  alpina).  Others  have  more  prom- 
inent flowers,  such  as  the  omnipresent  Labrador  tea 
{Ledum),  together  with  the  somewhat  less  universal  Loise- 
leuria  and  Bryanthus.  These  are  all  exceedingly  abundant 
in  the  southern  half  of  the  peninsula,  but  extend  variously 
far  to  the  north.  The  white  clusters  of  the  Ledum  and  the 
purple  umbels  of  the  Bryanthus  are  very  conspicuous.  In 
the  autumn,  the  red-turning  leaves  of  the  Arctostaphylos  are 
the  most  attractive  of  the  season's  colorings.  There  is  also 
a  large  number  of  other  plants  that  are  constantly  met  with, 
though  few  of  them  are  so  nearly  omnipresent  and  con- 
tinuous as  are  most  of  those  already  mentioned.  The  bake- 
apple  or  cloudberry  (Rubus  ChamcBmorus)  grows  thickly  as 
far  north  as  Hebron,  but  very  thinly  beyond.  We  could 
find  but  very  few  of  its  ripe  berries  in  Labrador,  though  in 
Newfoundland  they  seem  to  be  common.  Associated  with 
its  single  white  flowers  are  frequently  seen  the  showy,  rose- 


170  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

colored  ones  of  the  arctic  raspberry  {Rubus  arcticus).  This 
also,  so  far  as  our  experience  could  determine,  had  about  the 
same  limits  and  was  equally  rare  in  fruit.  Bunchberry 
{Cornus  Canadensis)  is  likewise  very  common,  especially  in 
the  south,  and  grows  in  thick  groups.  Dense  tufts  of  the 
white-flowered  Diapensia  Lapponica  and  of  the  beautiful 
moss-like  pink  Silene  acanlis  greet  the  eye  continually. 
Astragalus  and  Oxytropis,  Dryas,  a  great  variety  of  saxifrages, 
Sedum,  Pedicularis,  the  violet-like  Pinguicida,  and  many  in- 
conspicuous Cruciferce  and  Caryophyllacece  complete  the  list 
of  forms  more  universally  present  in  the  early  part  of  the 
season. 

After  the  beginning  of  August,  when  we  had  reached  a 
higher  latitude,  the  character  of  the  vegetation  changed 
considerably.  Caribou  moss,  curlew-berry,  blueberry,  and 
Arctostaphylos  still  remained  the  most  continuous  growths. 
But  the  flowers  began  to  change  to  more  autumnal  forms. 
The  arctic  golden-rod  (Solidago  Virga-aurea  and  S.  macro- 
phylla)  appeared  abundantly.  The  large,  showy  pink  flowers 
of  the  Epilobium  and  the  thick  pink  heads  of  Lychnis  were 
very  prominent.  Yellow  Arnica  alpina  and  delicate  blue  hare- 
bells {Campanula)  were  common.  A  yellow  poppy  (Papaver 
nudicaule)  with  early  deciduous  petals  was  not  infrequent  on 
the  hill-tops.  A  strikingly  beautiful  flower,  though  a  rare 
one,  was  the  small  twin-flower  {Linncea  borealis).  Fungi,  in- 
cluding Boleti,  Riissulce,  and  various  agarics,  also  become 
very  abundant  toward  the  close  of  the  summer;  they  were 
fairly  numerous  in  the  north,  and  the  moist  woods  about 
Nain  and  Hopedale  were  full  of  them. 

Along  the  shore,  in  addition  to  many  of  the  above  va- 
rieties, several  other  plants  were  of  very  frequent  occur- 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  171 

rence.  Seaside  sandwort  {Arenaria  peploides),  sea-lungwort 
or  ice-plant  {Mertensia  maritima),  Potentilla  anserina  and  tri- 
dentata,  two  large  UmbellifercB  {Archangelica  and  Coslo- 
plenrum),  and  one  or  two  species  of  plantain  (Plantago)  we 
found  almost  everywhere,  even  to  the  far  north,  though  only- 
one  or  two  of  them  occurred  quite  as  far  as  Nachvak;  while 
iris  and  beach-pea  {Lathyrus  maritimus)  were  also  very 
abundant,  but  were  confined  to  much  more  southerly  limits. 

The  thoroughness  of  our  examination  of  the  coast  was 
favorable  to  a  fairly  exhaustive  study  of  the  Labrador  flora. 
This  feature  was  offset,  however,  to  a  certain  extent  by  my 
own  inexpertness  in  the  botanical  field;  and  for  this  reason  it 
is  probable  that  many  interesting  plants  escaped  my  notice. 
Of  the  more  common  and  easily  recognized  varieties  I  pre- 
served no  specimens,  because  of  the  difficulty  of  making  and 
caring  for  a  large  collection  in  our  limited  quarters.  In 
almost  all  cases  of  doubt,  however,  and  in  many  cases  where 
there  was  none,  I  brought  home  specimens  for  identification. 
The  names  given  on  my  own  authority  alone  are  compar- 
atively few,  and  are  with  few  exceptions  those  of  plants  in 
regard  to  which  there  can  be  little  or  no  uncertainty. 

The  largest  part  of  the  credit  for  the  list  which  I  am 
able  to  present  is  due  to  those  on  whom  has  fallen  the  work 
of  identification  of  specimens.  Prof.  W.  W.  Bailey,  of 
Brown  University,  undertook  the  examination  of  all  the 
phenogamous  plants,  with  the  exception  of  the  willows;  and 
his  careful  work  has  been  further  revised  by  Prof.  B.  L.  Rob- 
inson and  Mr.  M.  L.  Fernald,  of  Harvard  University,  of 
whose  kindly  and  able  assistance  we  wish  to  make  grateful 
acknowledgment.  The  willows  were  named  by  Prof.  W.  W. 
Rowlee,  of  Cornell  University.     The  mosses  were  submit- 


172  Report  of  the  Brozvn-Harvard  Expedition. 

ted  to  Mr.  J.  F.  Collins,  of  Brown  University,  who  is  able, 
as  yet,  to  report  on  only  a  portion  of  them;  these,  however, 
are  the  only  portions  of  my  collection  in  regard  to  which 
this  report  is  incomplete.  The  lichens  have  been  examined 
and  identified  by  Professor  Clara  E.  Cummings,  of  Wellesley 
College.  Unfortunately,  a  large  portion  of  the  fungi 
collected  were  imperfectly  preserved  and  could  not  be 
named.  The  list  of  them  here  given  represents,  therefore, 
very  inadequately  their  actual  variety  in  Labrador.  I  am 
indebted  to  Prof.  W.  G.  Farlow,  of  Harvard  University,  for 
their  names.  To  all  of  these  men  I  wish  to  express  my  sin- 
cere appreciation  of  their  interest  and  help. 

For  a  knowledge  of  the  localities  from  which  the  various 
species  of  phenogamous  plants  here  enumerated  have  been 
reported  previously,  I  have  consulted  the  following  authori- 
ties: 

(i)  Robert  Bell:  "Observations  on  the  Geology, 
Mineralogy,  Zoology,  and  Botany  of  the  Labrador  Coast, 
Hudson's  Strait  and  Bay."  Geol.  and  Not.  Hist.  Surv.  of 
Can.,  Report  of  Progress,  DD,  1884.  To  this  are  added  two 
names  given  in  a  similar  report  the  following  year. 

Bell's  list,  the  plants  of  which  were  identified  by  Prof. 
J.  M.  Macoun,  contains  seven  columns,  of  which  only  three 
apply  to  Labrador  proper.  His  columns  4  (Cape  Chidley) 
and  5  (Nachvak,  Ford's  Harbor,  and  Nain)  are  the  only  ones 
here  considered,  column  6  containing  only  species  in  the 
collection  of  Weiz,  more  fully  reported  by  Packard. 

(2)  A.  S.  Packard:  The  Labrador  Coast.  New  York, 
1891. 

Prof.  Packard's  list  aims  to  enumerate  all  the  localities 
reported  by  all  previous  observers.  The  list  was  compiled 
by  Prof.  Macoun. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  173 

(3)  Henry  G.  Bryant:  "A  Journey  to  the  Grand  Falls 
of  Labrador."  Geog.  Club,  Phila.,  Bulletin  No.  2,  March, 
1894. 

(4)  A.  P.  Low:  "Explorations  in  the  Labrador  Penin- 
sula." Geolog.  Surv.  Can.,  Part  L,  Annual  Report,  Vol.  VIII, 
1896. 

The  list  here  given  was  compiled  by  Prof.  Macoun.  It 
contains  four  columns,  of  which  only  the  first  applies  to  the 
coast  of  Labrador,  and  includes  all  previous  reports  from 
that  region,  but  without  definite  mention  of  locality.  His 
other  three  columns  include  only  plants  found  further  west, 
in  the  interior,  and  for  the  most  part  in  portions  of  the  pen- 
insula now  included  in  Quebec  and  not  in  Labrador  proper. 

(5)  A.  C.  Waghorne:  The  Flora  of  Newfoundland, 
Labrador,  and  St.  Pierre  et  Miquelon.  St.  John's,  1893,  1895, 
1898. 

This  list  aims  to  bring  up  to  its  final  date  all  previous 
local  references,  but  includes  only  phenogamous  plants  as  far 
as  Plantaginacese  in  Gray's  order  of  families. 

(6)  M.  L.  Fernald  and  J.  D.  Sornborger:  "Some  Re- 
cent Additions  to  the  Labrador  Flora."  Reprinted  from 
The  Ottazva  Naturalist,  Vol.  XIII,  July,  1899. 

(7)  John  Macoun:  Catalogue  of  Canadian  Plants. 
1883-92. 

In  regard  to  all  species  not  previously  reported  from 
Labrador,  or  in  case  of  which  I  find  only  one  or  two  previous 
local  references,  I  have  consulted  Britton  and  Brown's 
Illustrated  Flora  of  the  Northern  States  and  Canada  (New 
York,  1896-98),  and  Gray's  Synoptical  Flora  of  North 
America,  so  far  as  it  is  yet  completed.  I  count  as  not 
previously  reported  even  those  stated  by  these  authorities 


174  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

as  occurring  in  Labrador,  inasmuch  as  many  so  reported 
were  observed  in  Canadian  portions  of  the  Labrador  penin- 
sula, unless  in  the  above  lists  they  are  given  definite  locality 
within  the  limits  of  Labrador  proper  as  these  limits  are  now 
defined,  i.  e.,  from  Blanc  Sablon  north  to  latitude  52°,  thence 
along  the  height  of  land  to  a  point  on  Ungava  Bay,  a  little 
south  of  Cape  Chidley,  and  thence  following  the  coast 
around  the  latter  back  to  Blanc  Sablon. 

None  of  the  fungi  here  definitely  or  approximately 
named  have  been  previously  reported  in  the  above-named 
lists.  Of  the  mosses,  eleven  are  new  to  the  Labrador  coast, 
and  five  others  have  been  reported  heretofore  from  one 
locality  only.  All  seven  of  the  hepatics  here  named  are  now 
reported  for  the  first  time,  although  three  of  these  names  can 
be  given  as  yet  only  provisionally.  Five  of  the  lichens  are 
apparently  new  to  Labrador. 

Among  the  phenogamous  plants  there  is  a  considerable 
number  that  are  of  especial  interest.  Twenty-three  of  them 
are  new  to  the  Labrador  coast.  Two  of  these  (Pyrola 
chJorantha  and  Solix  uva-iirsi)  have  been  reported  already 
indefinitely  from  the  "coast,"  but  this  may  refer  sometimes 
to  that  part  of  the  coast  that  belongs  to  Quebec.  Nine  are 
new  to  the  coast,  but  have  been  found  previously  in  other 
parts  of  the  Labrador  peninsula.  These  are :  Oxytropis 
podocarpa,  Saxifraga  Hircuhis,  Gentiana  propinqtia,  Abies 
balsatnea,  Juncus  castaneus,  Liizula  hyperborca,  Eriophorum 
alpimim,  Cotebrosa  aquatiea,  Poa  nemoralis.  Six  others  also 
are  new  under  names  here  given,  but  may  probably  have 
been  reported  before  under  the  name  of  another  species  or 
variety,  namely:  Stellaria  humifusa  var.  ovalifolio,  Epilobium 
angnstifoUum     forma    stenophylla,    Coelopleurum    actceifolium, 


E.  B.  Delaharre,  Ph.  D.  175 

Pyrola  rotimdi folia,  Salix  Grmilandica,  Salix  Labradorica. 
Six  are  entirely  new  to  Labrador;  one  of  them  (Carex  fili- 
folia)  has  never  been  known  east  of  Manitoba;  one  {Carex 
compacta)  now  appears  southward  of  its  usual  limits,  Green- 
land and  Arctic  America;  four  (Dicentra  Canadensis,  Poly- 
gonum littorale,  Festuca  rubra,  Lycopodium  lucidulmn)  are  now 
extended  to  the  north  of  their  previous  limits. 

Of  those  which  were  already  known  on  the  Labrador 
coast,  a  few  appear  in  localities  considerably  beyond  the  ones 
where  they  have  been  found  before.  Thus,  for  Poa  alpina, 
Cape  Chidley  or  Nain  was  previously  the  southern  limit,  but 
it  is  now  found  on  Hare  Island,  almost  in  the  extreme  south; 
while  two  (Calmagrostis  Canadensis,  Hierochloe  borealis), 
which  were  before  unknown  north  of  Hamilton  Inlet  or 
Hopedale,  are  now  found  as  far  north  as  Port  Manvers  or 
Nachvak.  Besides  these,  there  are  among  the  phenogamous 
plants  about  fifty  that  have  been  reported  previously  only 
from  a  singe  locality,  or  by  a  single  authority. 

In  all,  about  500  specimens  are  included  in  the  collec- 
tion. These  have  yielded  the  list  given  below,  which  in- 
cludes not  far  from  300  names,  of  which  45  are  from  identi- 
fications made  b)'^  myself  alone,  unconfirmed  by  specimens 
preserved.  The  latter  will  be  easily  detected  in  the  list  from 
the  lack  of  numbers  referring  to  specimens,  and  cannot  be 
considered  so  authoritative  as  the  others. 

In  the  list  that  follows,  an  asterisk  (*)  preceding  a  name 
means  that  the  plant  has  not  been  previously  definitely  re- 
ported from  the  Labrador  coast;  a  dagger  (f)  means  that  it 
has  been  previously  reported  only  from  a  single  locality  or 
by  a  single  authority. 

In  the  local  references,  first  are  eiven  the  localities  of  all 


176  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

the  specimens  in  my  collection,  following  the  number  of  the 
specimen.  Most  of  these  references  are  from  definite  local- 
ities; a  few  are  recorded  merely  as  from  Southern  Labrador, 
and  of  these  the  majority  were  collected  in  the  vicinity  of 
St.  Lewis  Sound  or  of  Seal  Islands.  Such  terms  as  "Hebron- 
Nachvak"  mean  that  the  plant  occurs  at  one  or  the  other, 
or  between,  the  two  places.  Specimens  from  Mt.  Faunce 
were  collected  between  3,500  and  4,400  feet  above  sea-level 
at  our  most  northern  point.  After  the  initials  E.  B.  D.  are 
given  the  localities  where  the  plant  occurs  according  to 
my  own  observation,  unsupported  by  collected  specimens. 
Finally,  after  the  word  "Previously,"  come  former  references, 
the  authorities  being  abbreviated  as  follows:  B :,  Bryant;  all 
these  are  from  the  basin  of  the  Grand  or  Hamilton  River. 
BM:,  Macoun's  list  in  columns  4  and  5  of  Bell's  report. 
F :,  Fernald  and  Sornborger.  L :,  Macoun's  list  in  column  i  of 
Low's  report.  M  :,  Macoun's  catalogue.  P:,  Macoun's  list 
in  Packard.  W :,  Waghorne.  Later  references  to  the  same 
locality  are  not  given  when  taken  from  an  earlier  source ;  and 
references  merely  to  the  "coast  of  Labrador"  or  to  "Labra- 
dor" are  rarely  given  when  definite  localities  can  be  named, 
because  it  is  often  uncertain  whether  those  terms  refer  to 
Labrador  proper. 

The  dates  of  collection  or  observation  of  the  plants,  to- 
gether with  the  comparative  position  of  the  stations,  can  be 
determined  by  reference  to  the  list  of  stations  given  in  Sec- 
tion n. 

No  attempt  is  made  to  enumerate  all  Labrador  plants, 
the  list  being  confined  to  those  observed  or  collected  on  this 
expedition. 


E.  B.  Delaharre,  Ph.  D.  177 


A.     PHENOGAMOUS  PLANTS. 

Ranunculacese : 

Coptis  trifolia,  Salisb.  (Goldthread).  E.  B.  D. :  Great  Caribou 
Island,  Rodney  Mundy  Island,  Jigger  Island,  Ford  Harbor. 
Previously:  W:  Forteau  (Butler);  Battle  Harbor  and  other 
places. 

tRanunculus  hyperboreus,  Rottb.  (Northern  Crowfoot).  (142) 
Hopedale.  Previously:  W:  Cape  Chidley  (Cat.  Ill,  480);  doubtful 
specimen  from  Pack's  Harbor.  E.  B.  D. :  This  plant  is  well-known 
at  Hopedale,  but  was  called  R.  pygmseus  by  Dr.  Hettasch  there. 

Ranunculus  nivalis,  L.  (55)  Hebron-Nachvak.  Previously :  P. 
Hopedale  (Weiz).     BM:  Cape  Chidley. 

tRanunculus  pygmseus,  Wahl.  (53)  Hebron-Nachvak;  (25)  Mt. 
Faunce.  E.  B.  D. :  Cape  Mugford.  Previously:  BM:  Cape  Chid- 
ley ;  attributed  to  Hopedale  by  Packard  (Weiz) ,  but  this  is  probably 
the  R.  hyperboreus  above.     P:  Coast  of  Lab.  (Pursh). 

Pap  aver  acese : 

Papaver  nudicaule,  L.  (Arctic  Poppy).  (90)  Port  Manvers;  (35) 
Nachvak.  E.  B.  D.  :  Hebron-Nachvak.  Previously:  P:  Hopedale 
Islands  (Weiz);  BM;  Cape  Chidley. 

Papaver  sp.     (23)  Mt.  Faunce. 
Pumariaeese : 

*Dicentra  Canadensis,   DC.     (Squirrel    Com).     (295)    St.   Charles 
River.     No  previous  record  of  any  Fumariaceag.     This  specimen  has 
the  leaves  only. 
Crueiferse : 

Arabis  alpina,  L.  (Mountain  Cress) .  (80a)  Port  Manvers  or  Mug- 
ford;  (78)  Mugford;  (52)  Hebron-Nachvak.  Previously:  BM: 
Cape  Chidley.  P;  Coast  of  Labrador  (Kohlmeister) ;  Forteau  (But- 
ler); Hopedale  Islands  (Weiz).     W:  Battle  Harbor. 

Cardamine  pratensis,  L.  (Cuckoo  Flower,  Ladies'  Smock).  (56) 
Hebron-Nachvak.  Previously:  BM:  Cape  Chidley.  P:  Hopedale 
(Weiz). 

Coehlearia  sp.     (50)  Hebron-Nachvak. 
The  species  of  Coehlearia  are  almost  impossible  to  determine.    Several 
are  reported  from  Labrador,  two  by  Packard  (Weiz)  from  Hopedale, 
all  others  from^south  of  Hamilton  Inlet. 

tDraba  aurea,  Vahl.  (93,  94)  Port  Manvers.  Previously:  P: 
Hopedale  (Weiz). 

Draba  incana,  L.  (Whitlow-grass).  (186)  Southern  Labrador; 
(250)  Pottle's  Cove;  (150)  Rodney  Mundy  Island;  (22)  Mt.  Faunce. 
E.  B.  D. :  Pomiadluk.  Previously:  P:  Coast  of  Lab.  (Pursh); 
Hopedale  (Weiz);  Nachvak  (Bell).     W:  Battle  Harbor,  Snack  Cove, 


178  Report  of  the  Brozvn-Harvard  Expedition. 

Square  Islands,  L'anse  au  Clair.     Some  of  these  references  apply  to 
var.  confusa,  Poir. 

fDraba  nivalis,  Lilj.  (fide  B.  L.  R.)  (43)  Hebron-Ramah.  Previ- 
ously: F:  Cape  Chidley,  Okkak. 

Draba  sp.     (161)  Rodney  Mundy  Island. 
Violaeese : 

Viola  blanda,  Willd.  (White  Violet).  E,  B.  D. :  AiUik-Mokkovik. 
Previously:  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).     W:  Battle  Harbor. 

Viola  eanina,  L.,var.  ?  E.  B.  D.:  Mosquito  Bight,  common;  Ford 
Harbor.  Previously:  BM:  Nachvak-Nain.  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz). 
W:  Forteau  (Butler);  Sandwich  Bay  (Shears). 

Caryophyllacese : 
Arenaria    Gro9nlandica,    Spreng.      (Greenland    Sandwort).      (153) 
Pomiadluk;  (123)   Ford  Harbor.     E.  B.  D.:  Hebron-Saglek  (proba- 
bly).    Previously:  BM:  Nachvak-Nain.     P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).    W: 
Sandwich  Bay  (Shears) ;  Venison  Tickle. 

Arenaria  peploides,  L.  (Seaside  Sandwort).  (220)  Southern  Labra- 
dor. E.  B.  D. :  Common  on  the  shore  everywhere,  as  far  north  at 
least  as  Hebron;  specially  noted  at  Great  Caribou  Island,  Pottle's 
Cove,  Jigger  Island,  Aillik  and  Mokkovik,  Ford  Harbor,  Iterungnek. 
Previously:  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).  ''  W:  Forteau  (Butler);  Seal 
Islands,  Snack  Cove,  Turner's  Head. 

t  Arenaria  Sajanensis,  Willd,  (33)  Nachvak.  Previously:  W  :  Cape 
Chidley  (C.  H.  Geo.  S.  Can.,  V.  5). 

Cerastium  alpinum,  L.  (Mouse-ear  Chickweed).  (188)  Southern  Lab.; 
(249)  Pottle's  Cove  ;  (177)  Rodney  Mundy  Island  ;  (14)  Nachvak  ; 
(21)  Mt.  Faunce.  E.  B.  D. :  Common  ;  noted  also  at  Aillik  Bay, 
Ford  Harbor,  Iterungnek,  Saglek.  Previously  :  BM  :  Nachvak- 
Nain.  P:  Hopedale  Island  (AVeiz)  ;  Forteau  (Butler).  W:  Sand- 
wich Bay  (Shears)  ;  Battle  Harbor.  M  :  Ford's  Harbor,  Cape  Chid- 
ley (Bell). 

Lychnis  alpina,  L.  (88)  Port  Manvers  ;  (62)  Hebron-Nachvak. 
E.  B,  D. :  Iterungnek,  Ramah-Nachvak,  Nachvak.  Previously  : 
BM  :  Nachvak-Nain:  P  :  Coast  of  Lab.  (Morrison)  ;  Hopedale 
(\^^eiz) .     W  :  Snack  Cove. 

Lychnis  apetala,  L.  (47)  Ramah.  Previously:  BM  :  Cape  Chid- 
ley.    P  :  Coast  of  Lab.  (Morrison) . 

t  Sagina  procumbens,  L.  ?  (178)  Rodney  Mundy  Island  ;  (117)  Ford 
Harbor.     Previously :     F  :  Hebron. 

Silene  acaulis,  L.  (Moss  Campion)  (191)  Southern  Lab. ;  (246)  Pot- 
tle's Cove.  E.  B.  D. :  Common  throughout  the  region;  specially  noted 
at  Great  Caribou  Island,  Seal  Island,  Rodney  Mundy  Island,  Ford 
Harbor,  Saglek  Bay.  Previously:  BM:  Cape  Chidley,  Nachvak- 
Nain.     P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).     W:  Battle  Harbor,  L'anse  au  Loup. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  179 

Stellaria  borealis,  Bigel.  (Northern  Stitchwort) .  (304)  St.  Charles 
River;  (156)  Jigger  Island.  Previously:  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).  W: 
Battle  Harbor,  Venison  Tickle. 

Stellaria  humifusa,  Rottb.  (219)  Southern  Lab. ;  (156a)  Jigger  Island; 
(51,  54a)  Hebron-Nachvak.  E.  B,  D.  :  Great  Caribou  Island,  Rod- 
ney Mundy  Island;  Iterungnek?  Previously:  BM:  Nachvak-Nain. 
P :  Hopedale  (Weiz) ;  Seashore  Lab.  (Pursh) .  W :  Battle  Harbor  and 
several  places  along  the  coast. 

*  Stellaria  humifusa,  Rottb.     var.  ovalifolia,  Fenzl.     A  specimen, 

so  named  by  Mr.  Collins,  was  found  by  him  among  the  mosses  given 
him  for  identification.     Its  exact  locality  cannot  be  given, 

Stellaria  longipes,  Goldie.  (247,  257)  Pottle's  Cove,  (120)  Ford 
Harbor.  E.  B.  D. :  Jigger  Island.  Previously:  W:  Battle  Har- 
bor (Bull) ;  Sandwich  Bay  (Shears) ;  Pack's  Harbor,  L'anse  au 
Loup.  Several  varieties  are  given  by  various  authorities,  with  locali- 
ties extending  to  the  extreme  north. 

Portulacaeese : 
Montia  fontana,   L.   (Water  Blinks  or  Chickweed).     (54)   Hebron- 
Nachvak.     Previously:     P:    Coast  of  Lab.  (Gmelin).     W:    Battle 
Harbor,  Emily  Harbor,  Cape  Charles,  Seal  Islands,  Pack's  Harbor. 

Leguminosae : 
Astragalus  alpinus,  L.  (Milk- vetch) .  (209,  210)  Southern  Labra- 
dor; (258)  Pottle's  Cove  ;  (7)  Nachvak.  All  of  these  specimens  con- 
sist of  leaves  only,  and  are  named  with  some  doubt.  They  are  un- 
questionably, however,  identical  with  what  has  been  thus  identified 
previously.  E.  B.  D. :  Exceedingly  common  at  all  stations  through- 
out the  entire  coast  region.  Previously:  BM:  Cape  Chidley,  Nach- 
vak-Nain. P:  Forteau  (Butler);  Hopedale  (Weiz).  W:  Battle  Har- 
bor, Sandwich  Bay. 

Lathyrus  maritimus,  Bigelow.  (Everlasting  Pea,  Beach  Pea).  (206, 
241)  Southern  Lab. ;  (254)  ?  Pottle's  Cove.  E.  B.  D. :  Great  Caribou 
Island,  Jigger  Island.  Previously:  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).  W:  Bat- 
tle Harbor,  St.  Michael's  and  other  places. 

Oxytropis  eampestris,  DC,  var.  coerulea,  Koch,  (fide  B.  L.  R.). 
(175)  Rodney  Mundy  Island.  E.  B.  D. :  This,  or  something  similar, 
at  Brig  Harbor  Island,  Ford  Harbor,  Iterungnek-Saglek.  Pre- 
viously: BM:  Cape  Chidley,  Nachvak-Nain.  P:  Forteau  (Butler) ; 
Hopedale  (Weiz);  Square  Island  (Allen).  W:  Battle  Harbor,  Sand- 
wich Bay,  Grosswater  Bay. 

*  Oxytropis  podoearpa.  Gray.  (49)  Hebron-Nachvak.  No  definite 
previous  reference.  P.  speaks  of  it  as  in  the  Herb.  Gray  ;  M.  refers 
it  to  "  Labrador  "  on  the  authority  of  Gray. 

Rosacese: 

Alchemilla  vulgaris,  L.     (Lady's   Mantle).     (195)    Southern  Lab.; 


i8o  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

(77)    Mugford.     Previously:     P:    Hopedale   (Weiz),      W:    Battle 
Harbor,  L'anse  au  Loup,  Blanc  Sablon. 

Amelanchier  Canadensis,  var.  oligocarpa,  T.  &  G.  (Shad-Bush, 
Juneberry,  Indian  Pear).  E.  B.  D. :  Great  Caribou  Island,  Aillik- 
Mokkovik.  Previously :  W  :  Deep  Water  Creek,  Pack's  Harbor. 
Low  speaks  of  its  occurrence  in  the  interior  northward  to  Big  and 
Hamilton  Rivers. 

Comarum  palustre,  L.  ?  (Potentilla  palustris,  Scop.).  (181)  Rod- 
ney Mundy  Island.  E.  B.D. :  SaglekBay?  Previously:  P:  Hope- 
dale  (Weiz).     W:  not  uncommon  along  the  coast  of  Southern  Lab. 

Dryas  octopetala,  L.,  probably  var.  integrifolia,  C.  &  S.  (199) 
Southern  Lab.:  (72)  Mugford;  (15)  Nachvak.  E.  B.  D. :  Port  Man- 
vers,  Iterungnek-Saglek.  Previously:  BM:  Cape  Chidley,  Nach- 
vak-Nain.  P;  Hopedale  (Weiz);  Point  Amour  (Butler).  W:  Battle 
Harbor.     F:  Ramah. 

Potentilla  anserina,  L.  (Silverweed) .  (205)  Southern  Lab.  E.  B. 
D. :  Great  Caribou  Island,  Jigger  Island,  Aillik-Mokkovik,  Ford  Har- 
bor and  vicinity,  Saglek  Bay.  Abundant  on  the  shore.  Previously : 
BM:  Nachvak-Nain.  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).  W:  Battle  Harbor  and 
other  places. 

tPotentilla  nivea,  L.  (147)  Pomiadluk.  Previously:  P:  Hopedale 
(Weiz).     M:  Labrador  (Hooker). 

Potentilla  rubens,  Vill.  (P.  maculata,  Poir.)  (244)  Pottle's  Cove. 
E.  B.  D. :  Iterungnek-Saglek?  Previously:  BM:  Nachvak-Nain. 
P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).     W:  Long  Point.     M:  Cape  Chidley  (Bell). 

Potentilla  tridentata,  Ait.  (Three-toothed  Cinquefoil).  E.  B.  D.r 
Rodney  Mundy  Island,  Jigger  Island,  Ford  Harbor,  Iterungnek. 
Previously:  BM:  Nachvak-Nain.  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).  W:  Many 
places  on  the  Labrador. 

Pyrus  Americana,  DC,  var.  (American  Mountain  Ash).  E.  B.  D. : 
Great  Caribou  Island,  Aillik  Bay.  Previously  :  P:  var.  microcarpa, 
Hopedale  (Weiz). 

Rubus  arcticus,  L.  (Arctic  Raspberry.  Dewberry,  Eye-berry).  (190) 
Southern  Lab.;  (259)  Pottle's  Cove;  (141)  Hopedale;  (119)  Ford  Har- 
bor. E.  B.  D. :  Common  at  least  as  far  north  as  Hebron.  Specially 
noted  at  Rodney  Mundy  Island,  Jigger  Island,  Aillik-Mokkovik, 
Iterungnek.  Number  of  petals  very  variable,  from  4  to  8,  usually  6. 
Apparently  rarely  fertile,  none  of  its  fruit  being  found  by  us.  Pre- 
viously: This  or  var.  grandiflorus:  BM:  Nachvak  Nain.  P:  Hope- 
dale  (Weiz).   W:  Straits  of  Belle  Isle,  Indian  Harbor,  Holton. 

Rubus  Chamaemorus,  L,  (Bake-apple,  Cloud-berry).  (192,  203) 
Southern  Lab. ;  (217)  St.  Lewis  Sound,  Seal  Islands.  E.  B.  D.:  Very 
common  at  all  stations  as  far  north  as  Hebron;  rare  beyond.  Petals 
and  calyx-lobes  very  variable,  from  4  to  6.     Apparently  rarely  fertile. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,^  Ph.  D.  i8i 

Previously:    BM:    Nachvak-Nain.      P:   Straits  of  Belle   Isle   (St. 

Cyr);  Hopedale  (Weiz).     W:  very  common  (Macoun).     Low:  in  the 

swamps  everywhere  throughout  Labrador  to  beyond  the  tree  limit. 

M:  abundant  in  Labrador,  etc.  (Fowler's  Cat.). 
Bubus  strigosus,  Michx.   (Red  Raspberry).     E.  B.  D.:  AiUik-Mok- 

kovik;  Port  Man  vers?     Previously:  W:    frequent  in   many  places 

from  the  Straits  to  Hamilton  Inlet.     F:  Mallijak  in  Hamilton  Inlet. 
Bubus    triflorus,  Richardson.       (Dewberry,    Eye-berry,    Plumboy). 

E.  B.  D. :  Rodney  Mundy  Island?    Aillik-Mokkovik ?    Previously: 

P:  Forteau  (Butler).     W:  Capstan  Island  and  several  places  in  the 

Straits  and  northward. 
Bubus  sp.     (149)   Rodney  Mundy  Island. 
Sibbaldia   procumbens,  L.      (260)    Pottle's   Cove;    (71)   Mugford. 

Previously:  BM:  Nachvak-Nain.     P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).     M:  Cape 

Chidley  (Bell). 

Saxifragacese: 

Parnassia  parviflora,  DC.  (85)  Saglek  Bay;  (38)  Nachvak.  Pre- 
viously: W:  L'anse  au  Mort,  Holton,  Forteau,  Long  Point. 

Bibes  lacustre,  Poir.  (Swamp  Gooseberry).  E.  B.  D.:  Great  Cari- 
bou Island?  Previously:  W:  L'anse  au  Clair,  L'anse  au  Mort. 
F:  Red  Bay. 

Bibes  prostratum,  L'Her.  (Fetid  Currant).  E.  B.  D. :  Mosquito 
Bight?  Previously:  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).  W:  S.  Michaels,  L'anse 
au  Clair. 

Saxifraga  aizoides,  L.  (59)  Saglek-Ramah  (Sorviluk  River) .  Pre- 
viously: BM:  Nachvak-Nain.  P:  southeast  coast  of  Lab.  (Butler); 
Hopedale  (Weiz).     W:  L'anse  au  Mort.     M:  Cape  Chidley  (Bell). 

tSaxifraga  Aizoon,  Jacq.  (143,  145)  Pomiadluk;  (73)  Mugford; 
(4,  12)  Nachvak.  E.  B.  D.:  Saglek  Bay.  Previously:  P:  Coast 
of  Lab.   (Morrison);  Hopedale  (Weiz). 

Saxifraga   esespitosa,  L.    (185)    Southern  Lab.;    (20)    Mt.   Faunce. 

E.  B.  D. :    This  or  a  var.  at  Pottle's  Cove,  Ford  Harbor,  Saglek  Bay. 

Previously:     W:  Battle  Harbor.  M  :  Cape  Chidley  (Bell).  P  :  var. 

Groenlandica,  Hopedale  (Weiz)  ;  Forteau  (Butler)  ;  Nachvak  (Bell), 
Saxifraga  cernua,  L.  (144)   Pomiadluk.     E.   B.   D.  :    Saglek  Bay  ? 

Previously:  BM:    Nachvak-Nain.     P:  Hopedale  (Weiz)  ;  Coast  of 

Lab.  (Pursh).     M:  Cape  Chidley  (Bell). 
*Saxifraga  Hirculus,  L.  (196)  Southern  Lab. ;  (84)  Port  Manvers. 
Saxifraga  nivalis,  L.   (24)  Mt.  Faunce.     Previously:   BM  :    (var.) 

Nachvak-Nain.     P  :  Hopedale  (Weiz)  ;  Coast  of  Lab.  (Pursh).     W  : 

Bolster  Rocks  (Bull).     M  :  Cape  Chidley  (Bell). 
Saxifraga  rivularis,  L.     (48)  Hebron-Nachvak.     E.  B.  D.  :  Saglek 

Bay.    Previously  :  BM  :  Cape  Chidley.     P  :  Hopedale  (Weiz).    W  : 

Battle  Harbor,  Holton.     M  :  Nachvak  (Bell). 


i82  Report  of  the  Brozvn-Harvard  Expedition. 

tSaxifraga  tricuspidata,  Retz.  (32)  Nachvak.  E.  B.  D.  :  Saglek 
Bay.  Previously:  :BM  :  Nachvak-Nain.  P:  Coast  of  Lab.  (Mc- 
Gill  Col.  Herb.). 

Saxifraga  sp.     (197)  Southern  Lab.  ;  (70)  Mugford. 

Crassulacege  : 

Sedum  Rhodiola,  DC.  (Roseroot).  E.  B.  D.  :  Very  variable,  and 
perhaps  several  varieties  or  even  species.  Common  at  almost  all 
stations  as  far  north  as  Hebron.  Previously  :  BM  :  Nachvak-Nain. 
P  :  Hopedale  (Weiz) .  W  :  frequent  along  the  coast.  M  ;  Cape 
Chidley  (Bell). 

Droseracese  : 
tDrosera    rotundifolia,   L.   (Sundew).     E.   B.   D.:   Great    Caribou 
Island,  Aillik-Mokkovik.     Previously  :    P  :  Coast  of  Lab.  (Hooker) ; 
Hopedale  (Weiz). 
Haloragese  : 
Hippuris  vulgaris.  L.  (Mare's  Tail).     (134,159)  Brig  Harbor  Island. 
E.  B.  D.  :   Jigger  Island  ;    Iterungnek.      Previously  :    BM  :    Cape 
Chidley.     P  :  Hopedale    (Weiz) .     W  :  Fox  Harbor. 

Onagraeese  : 

Epilobium  alpinum,  L.,  var.  majus,  Gray.  (63)  Hebron- Nachvak. 
Previously  (E.  Homemanni  Reichenb.)  :  W  :  Pinware,  Cart- 
wright,  Forteau,  Blanc  Sablon,  Pack's  Harbor.  F  :  Mallijak  (Hamil- 
ton Inlet),  Mokkovik,  Ramah,  Okkak. 

Epilobium  angustifolium,  L.  (E.  spicatum,  Lam.)  (Fireweed,  Wil- 
low Herb).  (271)  American  Tickle  (Seal  Islands) ;  (252)  Pottle's  Cove; 
(133)  Ford  Harbor.  E.  B.  D. :  This  or  the  following  common  at 
Mosquito  Bight,  Aillik  Bay.  Iterungnek,  Nachvak.  Previously  : 
BM:  Nachvak-Nain.  P  :  Hopedale  (Weiz).  W  :  southern  Lab., 
Sandwich  Bay. 

♦Epilobium  angustifolium,  Lam.,  forma  stenophylla,  Hausch. 
(299)  St.  Charles  River  ;   (97)  Ford  Harbor. 

Epilobium  palustre,  L.  ;  var.  ?  (269)  American  Tickle  (Seal 
Islands).  Previously  :  L  :  Coast  of  Lab.  P  :  (E.  Hneare)  Hopedale 
(Weiz).  W  :  Pack's  Harbor,  Forteau,  Blanc  Sablon,  Battle  Harbor, 
Mullin's  Cove. 

Umbelliferse  : 
Archangelica  sp.  ?     (298)    St.  Charles  River  ;    (277,  278)  American 
Tickle  (Seal  Islands).     E.  B.  D.  :  Abundant  at  Pottle's  Cove,  Jigger 
Island.     Previously  :    (A.  atropurpurea,  Hofl'm.)  :     BM  :    Nachvak- 
Nain.  P:    Hopedale  (Weiz).     W:    Battle  Harbor. 

♦Coelopleurum  aetasifolium,  Coulter  &  Rose  (fide  B.  L.  R.)  (276) 
American  Tickle.  E.  B.  D.  :  Mosquito  Bight.  Previously  only  C. 
Gmelini,  Ledeb. 

Genus  unknown  :    (261,  262)  Pottle's  Cove. 


E.  B.  Delabane,  Ph.  D.  183 

Oornacese  : 

Cornus  Canadensis,  L.  (Bunchberry).  E.  B.  D.  :  Apparently 
several  varieties  :  very  common  everywhere  as  far  north  as  Ford 
Harbor.  Previously  :  BM  :  Nachvak-Nain.  P  :  Forteau  (Butler); 
Hopedale  (Weiz).  W  :  Straits  of  Belle  Isle  and  north.  Var.  suecica, 
L.  noted  by  BM  :   Nachvak-Nain. 

Caprifoliaceae : 
Linnsea  borealis,  L.     (Twin-flower).     (180)  Rodney  Mundy  Island; 
(139)  Hopedale;    (82,  87)  Port  Manvers;    (49a)    Hebron-Nachvak. 
Previously:  BM:  Nachvak-Nain.     P :  Hopedale  (Weiz) .    W:  Pack's 
Harbor,  Forteau. 

Lonicera  cserulea,  L.  (Mountain  Honeysuckle).  (189)  Southern 
Lab.  E.  B.  D.:  St.  Charles  River,  Pomiadluk,  Aillik  Bay.  Previ- 
ously: W:  Indian  Harbor,  Battle  Harbor,  L'anse  au  Loup,  Blanc 
Sablon. 

Viburnum  pauciflorum.  La  Pylaie.  (Arrow- wood) .  (154)  Mos- 
quito Bight.     Previously:  F:  Red  Bay,  Webeck,  Mokkovik,  Okkak. 

Compositse : 
Achillea  millefolium,  L. ;  perhaps  var.  nigrescens,  Meyer.     (Yar- 
row).    E.  B.  D.:   Pottle's  Cove,  abundant;  Jigger  Island.     Previ- 
ously: BM:  Nachvak-Nain.     P:  Hopedale  (Weiz) . 

Antennaria  alpina,  DC.  (Everlasting).  (83)  Port  Manvers. 
E.  B.  D. :  Some  species  of  Antennaria  also  at  Ford  Harbor.  Previ- 
ously :  P:  Coast  of  Lab.  (Kohlmeister);  Hopedale  (Weiz).  M:  Cape 
Chidley  (Bell). 

fAntennaria  hyperborea,  Don.  (83a)  Port  Manvers.  Previously: 
F :  Ramah ;  formerly  by  Kohlmeister  and  at  Okkak. 

Arnica  alpina,  Murr.  (76)  Mixgford;  (5, 11)  Nachvak.  E.  B.  D.: 
Common  at  all  points  from  Port  Manvers  to  Nachvak.  Previously: 
BM:  Cape  Chidley.  P:  Coast  of  Lab.  (Torr.  and  Gray);  Hopedale 
Islands  (Weiz).    M:  Nachvak  (Bell). 

Artemisia  borealis,  Pall.  (Wormwood).  (125)  Ford  Harbor;  (61) 
Hebron-Nachvak.  E.  B.  D. :  Ramah.  Previously:  varieties  only 
reported  by  P:  Hopedale  Islands  (Weiz);  F:  Ramah.  M:  Coast 
(Kohlmeister). 

Aster  radula,  Ait.  (274)  Hopedale  (Sept.).  Previously:  W:  Bat- 
tle Harbor,  L'anse  au  Loup.  Var.  stricta  by  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz); 
W:  Square  Islands,  Capstan  Island. 

tCrepis  nana,  Richardson.    (58)  Ramah.     Previously:  F:  Ramah. 

Erigeron  uniflorus,  L.  (Fleabane).  (74)  Mugford;  (31)  Nachvak. 
E.  B.  D.:  Iterungnek-Saglek.  Previously:  BM:  Cape  Chidley, 
Nachvak-Nain.     P:   Hopedale  (Weiz);  coast  of  Lab.  (Kohlmeister). 

Hieraeium  vulgatum.  Fries.     (Hawkweed).     (92)  Mugford.     Pre- 


184  Report  of  the  Brozi'n- Harvard  Expedition. 

viously:    P:    Hopedale   (Weiz);    coast  of   Lab.   ( Kohlmeister) .     F: 

Ramah. 
tPetasites   palmata,   Gray.     (Sweet   Coltsfoot).     (281)    Pomiadluk. 

E.  B.  D. :   Aillik  Bay,  Iterungnek,  Saglek.     Previously:    P:   coast 

of  Lab.  (Hooker);  Hopedale  Islands  (Weiz). 
Senecio  pauciflorus,  Pursh.     (Groundsel,  Ragwort).    (75)  Mugford. 

E.  B.  D.:  Ramah- Nachvak.     Previously:  (S.  aureus,  L.,  var.  bore- 

alis,  T.  &G.):  BM:  Nachvak-Nain.     P:  Hopedale  Islands  (Weiz). 
tSenecio  vulgaris,  L.     (267)   St.   Francis  Harbor;    (275)  Hopedale 

(Sept.).     Previously:  F:  Hopedale. 
Solidago  rQacrophylla,  Pursh.     (Golden-rod).    (283)  Southern  Lab. 

(285)  Harelsland;  (253)  Pottle's  Cove;  (67)  Hebron;  (28)  Nachvak. 

Previously:  BM:  Nachvak-Nain.     P:    Hopedale  (Weiz).     W:    For- 

teau,  L'anse  au  Clair,  Battle  Harbor,   Deep  Water  Creek,  Venison 

Tickle. 
Solidago  Virga-aurea,  L.     (151)  Pomiadluk;  (109)?   Ford  Harbor. 

E.  B.  D.:  This  or  the  previous  also  at  Rodney  Mundy  Island,  Aillik 

Bay,    Hebron,    Iterungnek,    Saglek;    common.      Previously:    (var. 

alpina) :  BM:  Nachvak-Nain.    P:  Hopedale  (Weiz). 

Taraxacum  dens-leonis,  Desf.  (Dandelion).  (152)  Mosquito  Bight; 
(126)  Ford  Harbor.  E.  B.  D.:  Pottle's  Cove,  Jigger  Island,  Hebron- 
Iterungnek,  Ramah-Nachvak.  Previously:  (T.  officinale):  W:  Bat- 
tle Harbor  and  other  places.  F:  Ramah.  Varieties  reported  byBM: 
Cape  Chidley,  Nachvak-Nain;  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz). 

Genera  unknown :    (232)  Seal  Islands;  (256)  Pottle's  Cove. 

Campanulacese : 
Campanula  sp.  (Harebell).  E.  B.  D.  :  Common  from  Port  Manvers 
northward.  Probably  one  or  more  of  the  following  species.  Pre- 
viously: (C.  rotundifolia) :  W:  Battle  Harbor,  Straits  of  Belle  Isle. 
(C.  rotundifolia  var.  arctica) :  P:  Forteau  (Stearns);  Hopedale 
(Weiz).  (C.  unifiora):  BM:  Cape  Chidley.  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz). 
(C.  Scheuchzeri  var.  heterodoxa) :  BM:  Cape  Chidley,  Nachvak-Nain. 
M  (III,  560) :  This  is  to  be  referred  to  C.  rotundifolia. 

Ericaceae : 
Andromeda polifolia,  L.     (198)  Great  Caribou  Island.   Previously: 

P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).  W:  Indian  Harbor,  Square  Islands,  etc. 
Arctostaphylos  alpina,  Spreng.  (Alpine  Bearberry) .  (187)  South- 
em  Lab.:  (169)  Rodney  Mundy  Island;  (2)  Nachvak.  These  speci- 
mens have  leaves  only,  and  are  therefore  named  with  some  doubt; 
but  are  certainly  identical  with  what  has  previously  been  so  identi- 
fied. E.  B.  D.:  Very  common  at  all  stations  throughout  the  coast 
region.  Berries  without  much  flavor  and  not  used  by  the  natives. 
Previously:  BM:  Cape  Chidley,  Nachvak-Nain.  P:  Hopedale 
(Weiz).     W:  Battle  Harbor,  L'anse  au  Loup, 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  185 

Bryanthus  taxifolius,  Gray.  (214,  216,  238)  Southern  Lab.  E.  B. 
D. :  Common  at  least  as  far  north  as  Saglek.  Specially  noted  at 
Great  Caribou  Island,  Sloop  Harbor  (near  Seal  Islands) ,  Pottle's  Cove, 
Rodney  Mundy  Island,  Ford  Harbor,  Iterungnck-Saglek.  Pre- 
viously: BM:  Nachvak-Nain.  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).  W:  Battle 
Harbor,  Seal  Islands,  L'anse  au  Clair. 

Cassandra  caliculata,  Don.  (Leather-leaf).  (221)  Southern  Lab. 
E.  B.  D. :  Great  Caribou  Island;  abundant  at  Sloop  Harbor  (Seal 
Islands).  Previously:  P:  Coast  (Hooker);  Square  Island  Harbor 
(Mann).     W:  Battle  Harbor. 

Cassiope  hypnoides,  Don.  (101)  Island  near  Ford  Harbor.  E.  B. 
D. :  Iterungnek-Saglek.  Previously:  BM:  Cape  Chidley.  P:  Hope- 
dale  (Weiz).     M:  Nain  (Bell). 

Cassiope  tetragona,  Don.  (57)  Hebron-Nachvak.  E.  B.  D.:  Not 
uncommon  all  the  way  from  Hebron  to  Nachvak.  Previously: 
P:  Hopedale  (Weiz);  coast  (Kohlmeister) ;  Nain,  Nachvak  (Bell). 

Kalmia  angustifolia,  L.  (Sheep  Laurel).  (226)  St.  Charles  River. 
E.  B.D. :     Sloop  Harbor  (Seal  Islands) ;  rare.   Previously:  P:  Coast 

(Morrison).     W:  West  St.  Modest,  Chatham,  Battle  Harbor. 

Kalmia  glauca.  Ait.  (Pale  Laurel).  (227)  St.  Charles  River;  (176) 
Rodney  Mundy  Island.  E.  B.  D.:  Great  Caribou  Island,  Sloop  Har- 
bor (Seal  Islands),  Ford  Harbor.  Previously:  BM:  Nachvak-Nain. 
P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).     W:  Battle  Harbor  and  a  few  other  places. 

Ledum  latifolium,  Ait.  (Labrador  Tea).  (171,  172,  173)  Rodney 
Mundy  Island;  (19)  Nachvak.  E.  B.  D. :  see  Ledum  sp.,  below.  Pre- 
viously: BM:  Nachvak-Nain.  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz);  coast  (Mor- 
rison). 

Ledum,  palustre,  L.  (240)  Southern  Lab.;  (164)  Rodney  Mundy 
Island.  E.  B.  D. :  see  Ledum  sp.,  below.  Previously:  BM:  Cape 
Chidley,  Nachvak-Nain.  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz);  coast  (Morrison). 
W:  Seal  Islands,  Pack's  Harbor,  Snack  Cove. 

Ledum  sp.  E.  B.  D. :  Ledum  is  exceedingly  common  at  all  places  on 
the  coast.  L.  latifolium  is  the  more  abundant  southward,  L.  palustre 
toward  the  north.  Either  the  L.  palustre  is  very  variable,  or  an  in- 
termediate species  exists  along  with  the  latter.  In  appearance  it 
certainly  seems  distinct  from  the  other  two :  its  leaves  are  interme- 
diate between  the  oblong  leaves  of  the  latifolium  and  the  linear 
shape  of  the  palustre;  its  capsule  is  short-oval;  its  number  of 
stamens  varies  within  the  same  cluster  of  flowers  from  5  to  11, 
mostly  from  7  to  9.  Its  distribution  is  the  same  as  that  of  L.  palus- 
tre. This  may  be  the  L.  palustre  var.  dilatatum  (Wahl)  of  Macoun 
(II,  301),  having  broader  leaves  and  sometimes  short  oval  capsule,  ap- 
proaching L.  latifolium;  and  reported  by  him  only  from  the  Pacific 
coast. 


1 86 


Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 


Loiseleuria procumbens,  Desv.  (Alpine  Azalea).  (218,239)  South- 
em  Lab.  E.  B.  D.:  Great  Caribou  Island,  Pottle's  Cove,  Rodney 
Mundy  Island,  Brig  Harbor  Island.  Common  in  the  more  southern, 
rare  in  the  more  northern  localities.  Previously:  BM:  Nachvak- 
Nain.     P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).     W:  Battle  Harbor,  Seal  Islands. 

Moneses  uniflora,  Gray.  (Pyrola  uniflora,  L.).  (136)  Hopedale. 
Previously:  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).  W:  Turner's  Head,  Hamilton 
Inlet,  Venison  Tickle,  St.  Michael's,  L'anse  au  Clair. 

*Pyrola  chlorantha,  Swartz.    E.B.D.:  Port  Manvers.    Previously: 

Coast  (Morrison,  Richardson,  Gray). 

♦Pyrola    rotundifolia,    L.      (Wintergreen,   Shin-leaf).      (85      Port 

Manvers. 
Pyrola  rotundifolia,  L.,  var.  pumila.  Hook,  (fide  B.  L.  R).  (9)  Nach- 

vak.     E.  B.  D.:  Hopedale,  Ford  Harbor,   Iterungnek-Saglek.     Pi'e- 

viously:  BM:  Cape  Chidley,  Nachvak-Nain.     P:    Hopedale  (Weiz). 

W:  Battle  Harbor. 

Rhododendron  Lapponicum,  Wahl.  (60)  Hebron-Nachvak.  Pre- 
viously:    BM:  Nachvak.     P:  Hopedale  (Weiz). 

t  Vaeoinium  Canadense,  Kalm.  ?  (228)  St.  Charles  River.  Pre- 
viously:    B:  Hamilton  River. 

Vaecinium  Pennsylvanioum,  Lam.,  var.  angustifolium,  Gray. 
(Blueberry;  Hurts).  (228)?  St.  Charles  River.  E.  B,  D.:  Great 
Caribou  Island,  Rodney  Mundy  Island.  Previously:  P:  Hopedale 
(Weiz);  Nain  (Lundbery).     W:  Snack  Cove,  Sandwich  Bay. 

Vaecinium  uliginosum,  L.     (Blueberry).     E.  B.  D.:  Great  Caribou 

Island,  Rodney  Mundy  Island,  Brig  Harbor  Island,  Ford  Harbor, 
Mugford,  and  abundant  all  the  way  from  Hebron  to  Nachvak.  Pre- 
viously: BM:  Cape  Chidley  Nachvak-Nain.  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz). 
W:  Blanc  Sablon,  Deep  Water  Creek,  Seal  Islands,  Hamilton  Inlet. 

Vaecinium    Vitis-Idsea,    L.      (Mountain     Cranberry,     Redberry). 

(222)   Southern  Lab.;  (265)   Pottle's  Cove;  (167)    Rodney  Mundy 

Island.     E.  B.  D.:  Abundant  everywhere  as  far  north  as  Hebron. 

Previously:      BM:    Cape   Chidley,    Nachvak-Nain.      P:    Hopedale 

(Weiz).     W:  Abundant  and  widely  distributed. 

Vaecinium  sp.     (168)  Rodney  Mundy  Island. 

Diapensiacese: 
Diapensia  Lapponica,  L.     (204)  Southern  Lab.;    (174)?    Rodney 
Mundy  Island.     E.  B.  D. :  Common  almost  everywhere  throughout 
the  coastal  region.     Previously:     BM:   Cape   Chidley,    Nachvak- 
Nain.     P:  Hopedale  (Weiz). 

Plumbaginacese : 

Armeria  (statice)  vulgaris,  Willd.  (Common  Thrift,  Sea  Pink). 
(130)   Ford    Harbor;    (102)    Island    near   Ford    Harbor  ;    (10,   18) 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  187 

Nachvak.     E.  B.  D. :  Common   everywhere  north  of  Ford  Harbor. 
Previously:  BM:  Cape  Chidley,  Nachvak-Nain.  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz). 
Primulacese : 

Primula  Mistassinica,  Michx.  (155)  Jigger  Island.  Previously: 
P:  Forteau  (Butler);  Hopedale  (¥/eiz).     W:  Battle  Harbor. 

Primula  farinosa,  L.  (Bird's-eye  Primrose).  (245)  Pottle's  Cove. 
Previously:  BM:  Nachvak.  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz),  W:  Sandwich 
Bay,  Battle  Harbor,  Long  Point  (Hamilton  Inlet),  L'anse  au  Clair. 

Trientalis  Amei'ieana,  Pursh.     (Star-flower).     E.  B.  D. :  Great  Cari- 
bou Island,  Pottle's  Cove,  Mosquito  Bight,  Aillik  Bay,  Ford  Harbor, 
and  Iterungnek-Saglek.     Previously:      P:  Coast  (Hooker);  Hope- 
dale  (Weiz) ;     W:  Appears  to  be  quite  common  everywhere, 
Gentianacese: 

*  Gentiana  propinqua,  Rich.  (64)  Near  Saglek  Bay,  on  north  bank 
of  river  flowing  into  Kajuktok,  southerly  slope,  about  350  feet  above 
sea  level. 

Menyanthes  trifoliata,  L.  (Buckbean).  E.  B.  D.:  Near  head  of 
Mokkovik  Bay.  Previously:  P:  Coast  (Morrison);  Hopedale 
(Weiz).     W:  Holton. 

Pleurogyne  rotata, Griseb.  (268)  American  Island  (Seal  Islands); 
(273)  Hopedale  (Sept.).  Previously:  P:  Coast  (Gray).  W:  Bat- 
tle Harbor,  Sandwich  Bay,  Hamilton  Inlet. 

Borraginaeeae : 
Mertensia   maritima,  Don.      (Sea  Lungwort),      (297)   St.    Charles 
River;  (255)  Pottle's  Cove.     E.  B,  D. :  Common  on  the  shore;  noted 
at  Jigger  Island,  Aillik-Mokkovik,    Nachvak.     Previously:     BM: 
Nachvak-Nain.     P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).     W:  Straits  of  Belle  Isle,  In- 
dian Harbor,  St.  Michael's. 
Scrophulariacese : 
tBartsia  alpina,  L.    (86)  Port  Manvers;  (17)  Nachvak.    Previously: 
P:  Coast  of  Lab.  (Kohlmeister).    M:  Nachvak  (Bell). 

Castilleia  pallida,  Kunth,  var.  septentrionalis,  Gray.  (Painted 
Cup).  E.  B.  D.:  Pomiadluk,  Ford  Harbor,  Iterungnek-Saglek. 
Previously:  BM:  Nachvak-Nain.    P:  Hopedale  (Weiz). 

fEuphrasia  latifolia,  Pursh.  (30)  Nachvak.  Previously:  F:  Mok- 
kovik, Hopedale. 

Euphrasia  sp.  (34)  Nachvak.  E.  B.  D.:  Some  species,  perhaps  lati- 
folia, perhaps  oflicinalis,  noted  at  Hopedale,  Ford  Harbor,  Port  Man- 
vers, Iterungnek,  Nachvak.  Previously:  (E.  officinalis):  BM: 
Nachvak-Nain.  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).  W:  L'anse  au  Clair,  Battle 
Harbor,  Fox  Harbor. 

Pedicularis  euphrasioides,  Steph.  (242,  279,  280)  Southern  Lab. 
(170)  Rodney  Mundy  Island;  (95)  Port  Manvers.  E.  B.  D:  Brig 
Harbor  Island,  Ford  Harbor,  Iterungnek-Saglek.    Previously:  BM: 


1 88  Report  of  tJic  Brozvn-Harvard  Expedition. 

Nachvak-Nain.    P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).    W:  Sandwich  Bay  (Quinton); 
Holton  (How).    M:  Coast  (Kohlmeister). 

Pedicularis  flammea,  L.  (243)  Southern  Lab.  E.  B.  D.:  Pottle's 
Cove,  Iterungnek-Saglek.  Previously:  BM:  Cape  Chidley,  Nach- 
vak-Nain.   P:  Hopedale  (Weiz);  coast  (Kohlmeister). 

Pedicularis  Qroenlandica,  Retz.  (96)  Port  Man  vers.  E.  B,  D.: 
Pomiadluk,  Iterungnek-Saglek.  Previously:  BM:  Nachvak-Nain. 
P:  Hopedale  (Weiz). 

tRhinanthus  Crista-galli,  L.  (Yellow  Rattle).  E.  B.  D.:  Hope- 
dale;     Iterungnek-Saglek?    Previously:     P:  Hopedale  (Weiz). 

Veronica  alpina,  L.  (Speedwell).  (89)  Port  Man  vers,  Iterungnek- 
Saglek.  Previously:  BM:  Cape  Chidley.  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz); 
Nain  (Lundberg). 

Lentibulariacese : 

fPinguicula  villosa,  L.  ?  (166)  Rodney  Mundy  Island;  (8,  13) 
Nachvak.     Previously:  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).    M:  Labrador  (Gray), 

Pinguicula  sp.  (163)  Jigger  Island;  (146)  Pomiadluk.  E.  B.  D.: 
Two  species  noted,  a  smaller  at  Pottle's  Cove,  Brig  Harbor  Island;  a 
larger  in  abundance  at  Pomiadluk;  both  at  Ford  Harbor;  one  of 
them  at  Saglek  Bay.  Previously:  (P.  alpina):  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz). 
(P.  vulgaris):  BM:  Nachvak-Nain.  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).  W.  For- 
teau.  Battle  Harbor,  Seal  Islands,  Snack  Cove,  Holton. 

Plantaginacese : 
Plantago  maritima,  L.    (Seaside  Plantain).    (224)  St.  Charles  River; 
(157)    Pomiadluk;    (1^8)   Ford   Harbor.    E.  B.  D.:    Probably   this 
species  also   at  Aillik-Mokkovik,    Saglek    Bay.     Previously:    BM: 
Nachvak-Nain.    P:  Hopedale  (Weiz). 

Polygonacege : 
tMacounastrum  (Kcenigia)  Islandieum,  Small.    (100)  Island  near 
Ford  Harbor.    Previously:  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz). 

Oxyria  digyna,  Hill.  (Mountain  Sorrel).  (91)  Port  Manvers;  (29) 
Nachvak.  Previously:  BM:  Cape  Chidley,  Nachvak-Nain.  P: 
Hopedale  (Weiz). 

*Polygonuin  littorale,  Link.     (129)  Ford  Harbor. 

Polygonum  viviparum,  L.  (194)  Southern  Lab.;  (296)  St.  Charles 
River;  (248,  263)  Pottle's  Cove.  E.  B.  D.:  Rodney  Mundy  Island, 
Hopedale,  Ford  Harbor,  Port  Manvers.  Previously:  BM:  Cape 
Chidley,  Nachvak-Nain.     P:  Hopedale  (Weiz). 

Rumex  sp.     (282)  Southern  Lab.;  (118)  Ford  Harbor. 

Santalacese: 
tComandra  livida,  tlich.     (225)    St.   Charles   River.     Previously: 
P:  Hopedale  (Weiz);  coast  (Morrison). 


E.  B.  Delaharre,  Ph.  D.  189 

Betulacese: 
Alnus  viridis,  DC.  (Mountain  Alder).  E.  B.  D.:  Aillik  Bay,  Mok- 
kovik  Bay,  Ford  Harbor,  Iterungnek-Saglek,  Nachvak.  Previously: 
BM:  Nachvak-Nain.  P:  Coastof  Lab.  (Morrison).  M:  Ford  Harbor 
(Bell). 
tBetula  nana,  L.  (Dwarf  Birch).  (223)  Southern  Lab.;  (229)  Seal 
Island;  (337)  Pottles  Cove.  E.  B.  D.:  This  or  B.  glandulosa  is  com- 
mon everywhere  throughout  the  coastal  region ;  was  seen  all  the  way 
from  St.  Lewis  Inlet  in  the  extreme  south  northward  to  Nachvak. 
Previously:  B.  nana  and  B.  glandulosa  are  given  by  BM  as  syn- 
onymous and  recorded  from  Nachvak-Nain.  No  other  definite  record 
except  of  glandulosa  by  F:  Hopedale,  Square  Island. 

Salicaeese : 

Note  ; — Some  of  these  were  identified  by  Professor  Bailey,  but  most 
of  them  were  sent  to  Professor  Rowlee,  of  Cornell.  The  initials  of 
the  person  who  is  responsible  for  the  name  of  the  specimen  are 
therefore  given  in  each  case  after  the  name.  In  regard  to  the  speci- 
mens submitted  to  him.  Professor  Rowlee  reports:  "  The  willows 
of  northeastern  North  America  and  Greenland  have  not  been  thor- 
oughl)^  worked  out  yet,  and  considerable  confusion  exists  as  to  their 
limits,  especially  in  the  group  including  S.  Grcenlandica  and  S. 
Brownii.  Mr.  Rydberg  has  recently  described  S.  atra  and  S.  Lab- 
radorica,  but  I  am  not  convinced  yet  that  they  are  specifically 
distinct.  I  have  therefore  adopted  the  more  conservative  view.  He 
also  has  substituted  the  name  S.  anglorum  for  Brownii, — another 
move  that  there  is  still  question  about." 

Salix  argyrocarpa,  Anders.  (W.  W.  R.).  (307)  Great  Caribou 
Island.     Previously:     BM:  Nachvak-Nain.     P:  Forteau  (Allen). 

Salix  Brownii,  (Anders)  Lundst.  (W.  W.  R.)  (184)  Southern  Lab.; 
(324,  328  to  335  inclusive)  Pottle's  Cove.  Previously:  F:  Hope- 
dale,  Red  Bay,  Chateau  Bay,  Indian  Harbor  ;  reported  by  Macoun 
from  "Labrador  (Morrison)"  and  "Nachvak  and  Ford's  Harbor 
(Bell),"  but  included  in  subsequent  lists  as  S.  arctica.  M.  (V,  356, 
1890),  calls  it  S.  Brownii,  Bebb.,  with  synonym  S.  arctica  ;  and  gives 
among  his  localities  also  Cape  Chidley  (Bell). 

tSaiix  Candida,  Willd.  (W.  W.  B.).  (207)  Southern  Lab.  Pre- 
viously:    P:  Forteau  Bay  (Allen). 

♦Salix  Grcenlandica,  (Anders)  Lundst.  (W.  W.  R.).  (183)  South- 
em  Lab.;  (165,  233,  234)  Seal  Islands. 

t  Salix  herbacea,  L.  (W.  W.  B.).  (66)  Various  places.  E.  B.  D.: 
Very  common  and  unmistakable  throughout  the  coast  region.  Noted 
specially  at  Great  Caribou  Island,  Ford  Harbor,  Port  Manvers,  Iter- 
ttngek;  seen  often  in  many  other  places,  but  not  recorded.  Pre- 
viously:    BM:  Cape  Chidley,  Nachvak-Nain.     P:  Coast  (Morrison). 


190  Report  of  the  Brozvn-Harvard  Expedition. 

*Salix  Labradorica,  Reydb.  (S.  Brownii  ;  see  Bull.  N.  Y.  Bot.  Gar- 
den, vol.  I,  No.  4,  p.  274.— W.W.  R.).     (208)  Southern  Lab. 

tSaUx  phylieifolia,  L.  (W.  W.  R.).  (336)  Pottle's  Cove.  Pre- 
viously:    P:  Nain  and  Ford's  Harbor  (Bell). 

*Salix  uva-ursi,  Pursh.  (W.  W.  B.,  fide  Fernald).  (182)  Southern 
Lab.;  (230)  Seal  Island.  E.  B.  D.:  Great  Caribou  Island,  Ford 
Harbor.  Previously:  P:  Coast  (Kohlmeister) ;  Dead  Islands 
(Allen). 

tSalix  vestita,  Pursh.  (W.  W.  R.).  (140)  Aillik  Bay;  (347)  Pomi- 
adluk.     Previously:  BM:  Nachvak-Nain.     P:  Coast  (Kohlmeister). 

Empetraeeae  : 

Empetrum  nigrum,  L.  (Crowberry,  Curlew-berry).  (215)  Southern 
Lab.  E.  B.  D.  :  The  most  abundant  phenogamous  plant  of  Labra- 
dor ;  found  in  large  quantities  at  all  places  visited.  Its  very  numer- 
ous berries  are  not  attractive  when  raw  :  the  skin  is  tough,  and  the 
contents  are  only  a  mass  of  large  dry  seeds  and  a  watery  almost 
tasteless  juice.  But  when  cooked  and  sweetened  the  toughness  of 
skin  and  seeds  disappears,  and  it  develops  a  delicious  flavor.  Ih  spite 
of  its  exceeding  abundance,  the  only  previous  references  in  au- 
thorities consulted  are  :  Low  :  abundant  throughout  the  semi-barren 
and  barren  regions  of  the  peninsula,  growing  freely  on  the  coast  and 
inland.  BM  :  Nachvak-Nain.  P:  Hopedale  (Weiz).  M:  Cape 
Chidley  (Bell). 

Coniferse  : 

♦Abies  balsamea,  Miller  ?  (Balsam  Fir).  E.  B.  D.  :  Pottle's  Cove  ; 
this  has  been  recorded  previously  only  from  the  interior  (Low  ;  but 
see  also  Bell,  Geol.  Surv.  Can.,  1884,  p.  13  DD)  ;  and  as  I  brought  no 
specimen  of  it,  I  cannot  now  feel  absolutely  sure  of  the  identification. 

tJuniperus  communis,  L..  var.  alpina.  Gaud.  (Jimiper,  Dwarf 
Cedar).  E.  B.  D.  :  Pottle's  Cove,  Rodney  Mundy  Island.  Pre- 
viously :  P  :  Coast  of  Lab.  (Hooker).  M  :  Labrador  (Lawson  & 
How). 

Larix  Americana,  Michx.  (Larch,  Tamarack,  etc).  E.  B.  D.  : 
Great  Caribou  Island,  Pomiadluk,  Aillik-Mokkovik,  Hopedale.  Pre- 
viously :  BM:  Nachvak-Nain  P:  (Hooker).  Low  :  probably  the 
hardiest  tree  of  the  sub-arctic  forest  belt :  it  grows  everywhere 
throughout  the  Labrador  Peninsula,  and  is  probably  next  in  abun- 
dance to  the  black  spruce.  F :  Red  Bay  ;  grows  considerably  north 
of  Nain  ;  an  abundant  tree. 

tPicea  alba.  Link.  (White  Spruce).  E.  B.  D.  :  Great  Caribou 
Island,  Rodney  Mundy  Island,  Pomiadluk.  Previously  :  P : 
(Hooker).  F:  Tub  Harbor.  Low:  found  everywhere  throughout 
the  wooded  area  of  the  peninsula,  but  is  not  everywhere  common ;  .  .  . 
its  distribution  appears  to  depend  altogether  on  the  soil. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  191 

fPicea  nigra,  Link.  (Black  Spruce).  E.  B.  D.  :  Great  Caribou 
Island,  St.  Charles  River,  Pottle's  Cove,  Rodney  Mundy  Island, 
Aillik-Mokkovik,  Ford  Harbor,  Nain.  Previously  :  P  :  (Hooker). 
F  :  Chateau  Bay.  Low  :  the  most  abundant  tree  of  Labrador  and 
probably  constitutes  over  ninety  per  cent  of  the  forest. 
Orchidacese  : 

tHabenaria  dilatata,  Gray.  E.  B.  D. :  Aillik,  Mokkovik.  Pre- 
viously :     P  :  Hopedale  Islands  (Weiz). 

tHabenaria  obtusata,  Rich.  E.  B.  D.  :  Aillik  Bay.  Previously  : 
F  :  Indian  Harbor. 

Iridaceae  : 
Iris  sp.     E.  B.  D.  :  Great  Caribou  Island,  Sloop  Harbor  (Seal  Islands), 
Rodney  Mundy  Island,  Jigger  Island,  Hopedale.    Previously  :  P  : 
I.  Hookeri  at  Hopedale  Island   (Weiz).     F:     I.  versicolor  at  Battle 
Harbor. 

Liliacese  : 

Clintonia  borealis,  Raf.  E.  B.  D.  :  Great  Caribou  Island.  Pre- 
viously :  F  :  Chateau  Bay,  Northwest  River,  Pitts  Arm,  Henley 
Harbor,  Red  Bay. 

tSmilaeina  trifolia,  Desf.  (201)  Southern  Lab.  E.  B.  D.  :  Great 
Caribou  Island,  Pottle's  Cove.  Previously  :  F  :  Battle  Harbor,  Tub 
Harbor. 

Streptopus  sp.  (193)  Southern  Lab.  E.  B.  D.  :  Great  Caribou 
Island,  Brig  Harbor  Island,  Mosquito  Bight,  Aillik  Bay.  Previously: 
(S.  roseus)  :  P  :  Hopedale  (Weiz).  (S.  amplexifolius)  :  F  :  Red  Bay, 
Indian  Harbor,  Hopedale,  Mallijak. 

Tofleldia  palustris,  Hudson.  (158)  Brig  Harbor  Island  ;  (98) 
Island  near  Ford  Harbor.  E.  B.  D.  :  Iterungnek-Saglek.  Pre- 
viously :  BM  :  Nachvak-Nain.  P  :  Hopedale  (Weiz)  ;  coast 
(Hooker). 

Juncaeese : 
♦Juncus    Castaneus,    Smith  ?     (39)    Nachvak.     Previously:    P: 

Ungava  Bay  (Bamston). 
Juncus    trifldus,   L.  (107)  Ford  Harbor.  Previously:    F:  Ramah, 

Carroll  Cove.     B :  Grand  River. 
tLuzula   arcuata,  Meyer.     (310)    Hebron-Nachvak.     Previously: 

BM:  Nachvak-Nain.    P:  Ungava  Bay  (Bamston).     M:  Cape  Chi dley 

(Bell). 
♦Luzula   hyperborea,  R.  Br.     (26)  Mt.  Faunce:  3,500  to  4,400  feet 

above  sea  level. 
Cyperacese : 
♦Carex   compaeta,  R.   Br.     (311)  Hebron-Nachvak.     Previously: 

M:  Cape  Chidley  (Bell) ;  but  not  included  in  his  later  list  in  Low  un- 
less as  C.  rotiindata  (Wahl). 


192  Report  of  the  Bronm-H award  Expedition. 

♦Carex  filifolia,  Nutt.  (38)  Nachvak.  "  Apparently  first  station 
east  of  Manitoba  "  (Femald). 

tCarex  rariflora,  Smith,  (fide  Femald).  (284,  289,  291)  Hare 
Island  (St.  Lewis  Inlet).  Previously:  F:  Hopedale,  Webeck 
Harbor. 

tCarex  rigida,  Good.  (C.  vulgaris,  Fries,  var.  hyperborea,  Boott.). 
(339)  Southern  Lab.;  (313)  Brig  Harbor  Island;  (104,  108,  115) 
Ford  Harbor;  (69)  Hebron;  (40)  Hebron-Nachvak.  Previously: 
BM:  Cape  Chidley,  Nachvak-Nain. 

♦Eriophorum  alpinum,  L.  (338)  Southern  Lab.;  (318)  Jigger 
Island;  (114)  ?  Ford  Harbor. 

*Eriophorum  polystachyon,  L.  (340)  Southern  Lab.;  (346)  Lo- 
cality unknown;  (323)  ?  Port  Manvers.  Previously:  P:  var. 
angustifolium  at  Hopedale  (Weiz). 

Eriophorum  sp.  E.  B.  D.:  One  or  more  species  grow  freely  from 
Hebron  northward. 

Seirpus  csespitosus,  L.     (303)  St.  Charles  River.  Previously:  BM: 

Nachvak-Nain.     P:  Hopedale  (Weiz). 

Seirpus  sp.     (236)  Seal  Islands. 
Graminlse: 

fAgrostis  sp.  (110)  Ford  Harbor.  Previously  only  A.  rubra,  L., 
by  F:  Hopedale,  Hebron. 

tCalamagrostis  Canadensis,  Beauv.  (113)  Ford  Harbor.  Pre- 
viously:    B:  Grand  River. 

Calamagrostis  sp.  (292)  Hare  Island;  (321)  Port  Manvers;  (309) 
Nachvak. 

♦Catabrosa  aquatiea,  (L.).  Beauv.  (Aira  aquatica,  L.).  (272) 
American  Island  (Seal  Islands). 

tElymus  arenarius,  L.  (E.  mollis,  Trin.).  (325)  Pottle's  Cove.  Pre- 
viously:    BM:  Nachvak-Nain. 

tFestuca  brevifolia,  R.  Br.  (314)  Brig  Harbor  Island.  Previously: 
BM:  Nachvak-Nain. 

*Pestuca  rubra,  L.  (288)  Hare  Island;  (103)  Ford  Harbor.  Britton 
&  Brown  refer  this  to  Labrador,  but  I  find  no  other  reference  to  any 
part  of  the  Peninsula. 

tHierochloe  alpina,  Roem.  &  Schl.  (105,  116)  Ford  Harbor;  (42) 
Hebron-Nachvak.  Previously:  BM:  Cape  Chidley,  Nachvak- 
Nain.     P:  Ungava  Bay  (Barnston). 

tHierochloe  borealis,  Roem.  &  Schl.  (345)  Aillik  Bay;  (30a) 
Nachvak.     Previously:     F:  Mallijak  (Hamilton  Inlet). 

tPoa  alpina,  L.  (286)  Hare  Island;  (80)  Port  Manvers  or  Mugford ; 
(112)  Ford  Harbor;  (312)  Hebron-Nachvak.  Previously:  BM: 
Cape  Chidley.     M:  Nain  (Bell). 


E.  B.  Delaharre,  Ph.  D.  193 

tPoa  glumaris,  Trin.  (344)  Aillik  Bay.  Previously:  F:  Nain; 
southern  coast. 

tPoalaxa,  Hsnke.  (327)  Pottle's  Cove;  (111)  Ford  Harbor.  Pre- 
viously:    F:  Ramah. 

*Poa  nemoralis,  L.     (319)  Jigger  Island. 

Poa  sp.     (287)  Hare  Island;  (108)  Ford  Harbor. 

tPhleum  alpinum,  L.  (322)  PortManvers.  Previously:  F:  Ramah. 

tTrisetum  subspicatum,  Beauv.,  var.   molle,  Gray.     (315)  Mug- 
ford;    (79)   Mugford  or  Port  Manvers;    (41,   44,  45,  46)   Hebron- 
Nachvak.     Previously:     BM:  Cape  Chidley,  Nachvak-Nain. 
Genus  unknown:     (300,  301,  302,  305)  St.  Charles  River. 

Equisetacese: 
Equisetum  sylvaticum,  L.     (237)  Seal  Island;  (81)  Port  Manvers  or 
Mugford;    (251)  Pottle's  Cove.     E.  B.  D.:    Rodney  Mundy  Island. 
Jigger  Island.     Previously:     BM:    Nachvak-Nain.     P:    Hopedale 
(Weiz). 

Pilices: 

tAspidium  fragrans,-Swartz.  (68)  Hebron;  (3,  8,  16)  Nachvak. 
Previously:  BM:  Cape  Chidley. 

tAspidium  spinulosum,  Swartz.  (293,294^  Southern  Lab.  Previ- 
ously :  B :  Grand  River,  F.  reports  var.  dilatatum  as  probably  the 
commonest  form  of  the  species  in  Labrador. 

Phegopteris;  Dryopteris,  Fee.  (290)  Hare  Island.  Previously: 
F:  Webeck  Harbor,  Tub  Harbor,  Mokkovik.     B:  Grand  River. 

tPhegopteris  polypodioides,  Fee.  (179)  Rodney  Mundy  Island. 
Previously:  F:  Battle  Harbor,  Webeck  Harbor. 

tWoodsia  Ilvensis,  R.  Br.  (148)  Jigger  Island;  (135)  Aillik  Bay; 
(37)  Nachvak.    Previously:  F.  Ramah. 

Lyoopodiacese : 
tLyeopodium  alpinum,  L.    (316)  Mugford.    Previously:  F:  Davis 

Inlet. 
tLycopodium^  annotinum,  L.     (343)  Southern  Lab.    Previously: 

B :  Grand  River.     F  reports  var.  pungens  from  Hopedale,  Chateau 

Bay,  Red  Bay. 
*Lycopodium  lueidulum,  Michx.    (341)  Southern  Lab.    (320)  Jigger 

Island. 
tLyeopodium  Selago,  L.     (342)  Southern  Lab. ;  (317)  Jigger  Island; 

(308)    Nachvak.     Previously:    BM:   Cape  Chidley.     P:    Nain   and 
I        Ford  Harbor  (Bell). 


194  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 


B.  MOSSES  AND  HEPATICS. 

Note. — The  examination  of  these  plants  is  still  incomplete.  Mr. 
Collins  reports  on  them  as  follows:  "  Specimens  collected  (mostly 
without  fruit)  114;  specimens  determined,  about  85;  species  deter- 
mined, 29.  Thirteen  of  these  have  already  been  reported  from  sev- 
eral localities  on  the  Labrador  coast,  Five  of  them  have  been 
reported  from  one  locality  only.  Of  the  remaining  eleven,  two  (Di- 
cranum  fuseescens,  Polytrieum  piliferum)  have  been  indefi- 
nitely reported  from  "  Labrador;"  five  (Brachythecium  sale- 
brosum,  Conostomum  boreale,  Dicranum  Bergeri,  Pogo- 
natum  capillare,  Polytrieum  .commune,)  are  very  common 
throughout  North  America  and  are  reported  from  both  Greenland 
and  Newfoundland,  and  it  would  be  very  surprising  if  they  did  not 
occur  on  the  Labrador  coast,  although  there  is  no  previous  record  of 
them;  three  others  are  entirely  new  :  Mnium.  punctatum.  elatum. 
is  known  in  Miquelon,  but  the  type  has  been  reported  also  from  the 
Labrador  coast;  Barbula  ruralis  is  known  previously  only  from 
further  north  and  west  ;  Splachnum  Worm.skjoldii  seems  to  be  a 
very  good  find,  having  ;been  known  heretofore  only  from  high  north- 
ward—Smith Sound  (78°— 82°  N.),  Greenland,  Norway,  Lapland, 
Spitzbergen.  and  N.Asia;  and  finally  one  (No.  26b,  see  below),  if  a 
variety  of  Pogonatum  urnigerum,  is  here  found  much  farther 
north  and  at  a  higher  altitude  than  previously  known.  Most  of  the 
undetermined  specimens  are  apparently  more  or  less  common  species 
(or  duplicates),  although,  from  a  hasty  perusal,  a  few  of  them  may 
prove  interesting,  as  I  cannot  place  them  without  further  study." 

For  the  detennination  of  previously  recorded  localities,  "Paris: 
Index  Bryologicus  (1894-1900)"  has  been  consulted,  in  addition  to  the 
authorities  already  referred  to.  Specimens  recorded  below  merely  as 
from  the  "  Atlantic  coast  of  Labrador"  were  gathered  in  a  variety 
of  places  and  seemed  to  the  collector  to  be  so  common  and  widely 
distributed  that  no  more  definite  local  references  were  made. 

Musci: 
Andresea  petrophila,  Ehrh.     (1)  Atlantic  coast  of  Labrador;  (30) 

Mt.  Faunce.     Previously:  M:  Deep   Water  Creek,  Venison  Tickle, 

Battle  Harbor,  Bolster  Rocks  (Waghorne). 
Aulaeomnium  palustre,  (L)  Schwaegr.     (44,  a  form ,  62,  90,  94) 

Atlantic   coast   of   Labrador;  (32a,    35b,   70,   73,   77b)    Nachvak. 

Previously:  M:  Battle  Harbor,  Cape  Charles,    Fox  Harbor  (Wag- 
home);  Whale  Island,  Chateau  Bay  (Allen). 
Aulaeomnium  turgidum,   (Wahlen.)    Schwaegr.      (116a)   Atlantic 

coast  of   Labrador.     Previously:  M:  Seal  Islands,  Battle  Harbor 

(Waghorne). 

♦Barbula  ruralis,  (L)  Hedw.     (20)  Pottle's  Cove. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  195 

*Brachythecium  salebrosum  var.  palustre,  Schpr.  ( ?114)  Atlantic 
coast  of  Labrador, 

Ceratodon  purpureas,  Brid.  (78b,  79)  Atlantic  coast  of  Labrador. 
Previously:  M:  Squaw  Head,  Venison  Tickle  (Waghorne). 

*Conostoniuin  boreale,  Swartz.     (72)  Nachvak. 

*Dicranum  Bergeri,  Bland.     (83a)  Atlantic  coast  of  Labrador. 

*Dicranura  fusceseens.  Turn. ;  (or  possibly  D.  eongestum. — J.  F. 
C.)     (13b,  50b)  Atlantic  coast  of  Labrador. 

tGrimmia  apocarpa,  (L)  Hedw.  (107b)  Atlantic  coast  of  Labra- 
dor.    Previously:  M:  Battle  Harbor  (Waghorne). 

tHyloeomium  splendens,  (Hedw.)  Bry.  Eur.  (21)  Pottle's  Cove. 
Previously:  M:  Battle  Harbor  (Waghorne). 

tHypnum  cordifolium,  Hedw.  (16)  Hopedale.  Previously:  M: 
Battle  Harbor  (Waghorne). 

Hypnum  revolvens,  Swz.     (54,  113)  Atlantic  coast  of  Labrador. 

Previously:  M:  Battle  Harbor,  Square  Island  (Waghorne). 
Hypnum  Schreberi,  Willd.     (45b,  51,  61,  63b,  64a,  87a)  Atlantic 

coast  of  Labrador.      Previously:    B:  Hamilton   River;    M:    Deep 

Water  Creek,  Battle  Harbor  (Waghorne). 

Hypnum  stramineum,  Dicks.  (12,  57a)  Atlantic  coast  of  Labra- 
dor. Previously:  M:  Cape  Chidley  (Bell);  Indian  Harbor,  Venison 
Tickle  (Waghorne). 

Hypnum  uneinatum,  Hedw.  (7,  57c)  Atlantic  coast  of  Labrador. 
Previously:  M:  Cape  Chidley  (Bell);  Square  Island,  Seal  Islands, 
Battle  Harbor  (Waghorne). 

*Mnium  punetatum  var.  elatum,  Schpr.  (17,  24)  Rodney  Mundy 

Island.     Previously:    (Mnium  punc.  non  var.)   M:   Battle  Harbor 

(Waghorne). 
Pogonatum    alpinum,    Roehl.      (89)  Atlantic    coast    of    Labrador. 

Previously  :     M  :  Little  Bay  Islands,  Western  Cove,  Cape  Charles, 

Deep  Water  Bay  (Waghorne). 

*Pogonatum  alpinum  var.,  or  P.  urnigerum,  (Beauv.)  var.  (26b) 
Mt.  Faunce.  "  It  seems  to  be  a  form  of  one  of  these.  It  is,  how- 
ever, very  different  from  either  in  their  typical  form,  especially  in 
regard  to  size  of  plant,  and  size  and  margin  of  leaves.  I  am  some- 
what more  inclined  to  think  it  a  variety  of  P.  alpinum  now  than  T 
was  at  the  first  examination.  I  am  unable  (or  have  been  so  far)  to 
find  a  description  of  any  variety  of  either  species  which  seems  to  fit 
your  plant.  In  the  absence  of  fruit,  I  am  afraid  it  will  be  somewhat 
difficult  to  say  with  any  degree  of  certainty  of  which  it  is  a  form, 
unless  an  authentic  specimen  can  be  found  somewhere  that  exactly 
fits  it."— (J-  F.  C.) 

*Pogonatum  capillare,  Brid.     (27)  Mt.  Faunce. 


196  Report  of  the  Br ozmi-H award  Expedition. 

*Polytricum  commune,  L.  (15)  Ford  Harbor;  (59,  63d)  Atlantic 
coast  of  Labrador. 

Polytricum  juniperinum,  Willd.    (78a)  Atlantic  coast  of  Labrador  ; 

(74)  Nachvak.     Previously:  B  :  Grand  River;  BM.:  Cape"Chidley, 

Nachvak-Nain  ;  M  :  Little  Bay  Islands  (Waghome). 
♦Polytricum  piliferum,  Schreb.     (107a)  Atlantic  coast  of  Labrador. 
tPolytrieum  strictum.   Banks.     (9,  10a,  45c,  50a,  58,  80a,  85b, 

99)  Atlantic  coast  of  Labrador;  (23a)  Brig  Harbor    Island  ;  (35a, 

77a)  Nachvak.     Previously:  M  :  Nain  (Bell). 

Eacomitrium    eaneseens,  Brid.      (34b)    Nachvak.      Previously: 

M  :  Seal  Island,  Venison  Tickle  (Waghome). 

tRaeomitrium  lanuginosum,  (Hedw.)  Brid.  (22b)  Brig  Harbor 
Island  ;  (25,  28,  29a,  31b)  Mt.  Faunce  ;  63a,  67,86a)  Atlantic  coast 
of  Labrador.     Previously  :  M  :  near  Venison  Tickle  (Waghome). 

Sphagnum  acutifolium,  Ehrh.  (65, 106)  Atlantic  coast  of  Labrador. 
•Previously:  M:  Cartridge  Bight,  Seal  Islands,  Spence's  Cove 
(Waghome). 

♦Splachnum  Wormskjoldii,  Hornem.     (111b,  112)  Seal  Island. 

Tetraplodon    mnioides,    (L.  f.)    Bry.   Eur.     (109,  110,  Ilia)  Seal 
Island;  (101)  Atlantic  coast  of  Labrador.     Previously:    M:  Paro- 
quet Island  (Allen);, Indian  Harbor,  Venison  Tickle,  Battle  Harbor, 
Seal  Island  (Waghome). 
HepaticsB  : 

Note. — None  of  these  are  reported  by  the  previously-named 
authorities,  nor  by  W.  H.  Pearson  in  his  List  of  ICanadian  Hepa- 
ticcB  (1890).  All  the  specimens  recorded  below  are  from  the  Atlantic 
coast  of  Labrador,  but  no  more  definite  locality  can  be  given. 

*Blepharostoma  trichophyllum,  Dum.     (3a,  4a. ) 

*Fimbriaria  tenella,  Nees.     (4c.) 

*  Jungermannia  ventricosa,  Dicks.    (13a.) 

♦Lepidozia  setacea.  Mitt.     ( ?  3b.) 
■    *Marsupella  emarginata,  Dum.     ( ?  88b.) 

♦Nardia  crenulata,  Lindb.    (?4b.) 

♦Ptilidium  ciliare,  Nees.     (2,  6,  60,  80b,  86c.) 

C  LICHENS. 

[Note. — The  following  report  on  lichens  is  by  Miss  Clara  E.  Cum- 
mings.  Associate  Professor  of  Cryptogamic  Botany  at  Wellesley  Col- 
lege, who  kindly  undertook  the  task  of  identification.  Those 
recorded  from  "no  definite  locality"  were  gathered  at  various 
places  on  the  Atlantic  coast  of  Labrador,  between  St.  Lewis 
Sound  and  Hebron.— E.  B.  D.] 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  197 

The  latest  publication  on  the  lichens  of  Labrador  is  the  pamphlet  enti- 
tled Labrador,  published  by  Dr.  F.  Arnold  at  Munich  in  1896.  This  is 
based  on  the  work  of  Meyer  (i),  Schlechtendahl  (2),  Breutel  (3),  Tucker- 
man  (4),  Wainio  (5),  and  Eckfeldt  (6),  and  on  specimens  collected  by  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Waghome  and  communicated  to  Dr.  Arnold  by  Mr.  J.  W.  Eck- 
feldt. 

(l)  Meyer,  Em.,  De  plantis  Labradoricis  libri  tres,  18 jo.  (2)  Schlech- 
tendahl, D.  F.  L.  V,  Ueber  die  Flora  von  Labrador,  in  Linncea,  i8j6. 
(3)  Breutel,  Flora  German.  Exsiccata,  1832,  1843.  (4)  Tuckerman, 
Synopsis  N.  A.  L.  I,  1882 ;  II,  1888.  (5)  Wainio,  Monographia  Clado- 
niarium.  I,  i8'/6 ;  II,  i8p4.  (6)  Eckfeldt,  J.  W.,  An  enumeration  of 
the  lichens  of  Newfoundland  and  Labrador,  Bull.  Torrey  Bot.  Club,  iSg^. 

The  total  number  of  species  given  in  Dr.  Arnold's  list  is  one  hundred 
and  twenty-seven,  besides  numerous  varieties  and  forms.  The  present 
collection  of  forty-three  specimens  includes  five  species  which  are  not 
recorded  in  Dr.  Arnold's  list,  namely,  Cetraria  Islandica  van  platyna, 
Cetraria  cuctillata,  Theloschistes  poly  carpus,  Lecanora  palles- 
cens,  and  Cladonia  bellidiflora  var.  ochropallida. 

1.  Cetraria  arctica,  (Hook.)  Tuck.  On  Mt.  Fatmee,  at  an  altitude 
of  3,500-4,000  ft.;  also  at  Nachvak.  The  species  appears  in  Eckfeldt's 
enumeration. 

2.  Cetraria  Islandica,  (L.  )Ach.  Mixed  with  Cetraria  cucuUata 
and  C.  nivalis.  Both  Arnold  and  Eckfeldt  credit  it  to  Labrador  upon 
material  collected  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Waghome,  and  in  my  own  herbarium 
I  have  material  collected  by  him  at  Battle  Harbor. 

3.  Cetraria  Islandica,  (L.)Ach.,  d.  platyna  (Ach.)Th.  Fr.  With 
the  preceding  species  and  also  mixed  with  Cladonia  rangiferina,  CI.  syl- 
vatica  and  Stereocaulon  tomentosum.  A  specimen  in  my  herbarium 
was  collected  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Waghome  at  L'anse  au  Loup. 

4.  Cetraria  Islandica,  (L.)Ach.,  b.  Delissei  (Bor.)  Schaer.  This 
variety  is  recorded  in  Eckfeldt's  list,  and  a  specimen  in  my  own  her- 
barium was  collected  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Waghome  at  West  S.  Modeste. 

5.  Cetraria  cucuUata,  (Bell.)  Ach.  On  Mt.  Faunce,  3,500-4,000  ft. 
altitude,  and  at  Nachvak,  with  Cetraria  arctica,  C.  Islandica  and  Cla- 
donia rangiferina.  Evidently  this  is  one  of  the  most  common  species 
as  indicated  by  the  fragments  mixed  with  many  other  lichens,  though  it 
does  not  appear  in  Dr.  Arnold's  list. 

6.  Cetraria  nivalis,  (L.)  Ach.  On  Mt.  Fatmee,  3,500-4,000  ft.  alti- 
tude; other  specimens  have  no  definite  locality  recorded.  It  occurs  alone 
and  mixed  with  Cetraria  Islandica  and  species  of  Cladonia.  It  is  given 
in  Eckfeldt's  enumeration,  and  a  specimen  in  my  herbarium  was  col- 
lected by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Waghome  at  Battle  Harbor. 

7.  Cetraria  Fahlunensis,  (L.)  Schaer.  The  species  is  recorded  in 
Eckfeldt's  enumeration,  and  my  herbarium  contains  a  specimen  collected 
by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Waghome  at  Battle  Harbor. 


198  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

8.  Cetraria  glauca,  (L.)  Ach.,  v.  fusca  (Flot.)  Tuck.  Recorded  also 
in  Eckfeldt's  enumeration. 

9.  Alectoria  divergens,  (Ach.)  Nyl.  On  Mt.  Faunae,  3,500-4,000  ft. 
altitude,  with  Alectoria  nigricans.  Various  specimens  were  collected, 
either  growing  alone  or  mixed  with  A.  nigricans,  Cetraria,  nivalis  or 
species  of  Cladonia.  The  species  is  recorded  in  Eckfeldt's  enumera- 
tion. It  also  appears  in  Arnold's  list,  having  been  collected  at  Long 
Island.  It  is  represented  in  my  herbarium  by  specimens  collected  by  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Waghorne  at  Long  Island  and  Battle  Harbor. 

10.  Alectoria  jubata,  (L.)Ach.     Recorded  by  Eckfeldt. 

11.  Alectoria  nigricans,  (Ach. )  Nyl.  On  Mt.  Faunce,  3,500-4,000  ft. 
altitude,  -intermixed  with  Cladonia,  Cetraria,  Alectoria  nigricans  and 
fragments  of  Sphserophoron.  Specimens  were  also  collected  for  which 
no  definite  locality  was  given.  It  is  given  in  Arnold's  list  as  having 
been  collected  at  Blanc  Sablon  and  at  Capstan  Island.  Eckfeldt  records 
it  under  the  synonym  Alectoria  ochroleuca  (Ehrh.)Nyl.,  var.  nigricans, 
Ach.;  and  Tuckerman  as  A.  ochroleuca  (Ehrh.)  Nyl.,  a.  rigida,  Fr.,  nigri- 
cans, Ach. 

12.  Alectoria  ochroleuca,  (Ehrh.)  Nyl.,c.  sarmentosa  (Ach.)  Nyl. 
Var.  at  Mokkovik.  Recorded  by  Eckfeldt  and  represented  in  my  herbarium 
by  a  specimen  collected  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Waghorne  at  Battle  Harbor. 

13.  Theloschistes  poly  carpus,  (Ehrh.)  Tuck.  Mt.  Faunce,  3,500- 
4,000  ft.  altitude.     New  to  Labrador. 

14.  Parmelia  saxatilis,  (L. )  Fr.  This  species  is  given  in  Eckfeldt's 
enumeration  and  is  in  "my  herbarium  from  Battle  Harbor,  Labrador,  col- 
lected by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Waghorne.  Dr.  Arnold  reports  its  occurrence  at 
Capstan  Island  and  at  L'anse  au  Clair. 

15.  Parmelia  saxatilis,  (L.)  Fr.,  d.  omphalodes  Fr.  Given  in  Eck- 
feldt's (numeration  and  in  my  herbarium  from  Battle  Harbor,  collected 
by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Waghorne. 

16.  Parmelia  physodes,  (L.)Ach.,  b.  obscurata,  Ach.  Given  in 
Eckfeldt's  enumeration.  A  very  variable  form.  In  some  specimens  the 
lobes  of  the  thallus  are  very  long  and  narrow,  as  in  var.  vittata,  in  others 
wide  and  ventricose-infiated,  as  in  var.  enteromorpha,  while  in  still 
others  the  lobes  are  extremely  abbreviated  and  closely  massed. 

17.  Umbilicaria  eylindrica,  (L.)  Delis.  The  specimens  are  well 
fruited.  The  species  is  recorded  by  Tuckerman  and  Eckfeldt.  Collected 
also  at  West  S.  Modeste  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Waghorne,  and  represented  in  my 
herbarium.     No.  1136  in  Breutel's  Exsiccata  under  Gyrophora. 

18.  Umbilicaria  proboscidea,  (L.)DC.  Mt.  Faunce,  3,500-4,000 
ft.  altitude.  The  specimens  were  fertile.  Recorded  also  by  Eckfeldt ; 
recorded  by  Arnold  as  occurring  at  Forteau  under  the  synonym  Gyrophora. 

19.  Umbilicaria  hyperborea,  Hoffm.  Fertile.  The  species  is 
listed  by  Eckfeldt,  and  also  represented  in  my  herbarium  by  a  specimen 


E.  B.  Ddabarre,  Ph.  D.  199 

from  Blanc  Sablon  collected  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Waghorne.     Arnold  lists  it 
as  collected  at  L'anse  au  Loup. 

20.  Umbilicaria  vellea,  (L.)  Nyl.  Nachvak.  Only  sterile  speci- 
mens.    Given  in  Eckfeldt's  enumeration. 

21.  Nephroma  arcticum,  (L.)  Fr.  Specimens  fine  and  well  fruited. 
Recorded  by  Eckfeldt;  also  in  Arnold's  list  as  collected  by  Herzberg  in 
Labrador,  and  as  represented  in  Breutel's  Exs.  204. 

22.  Solorina  croeea,  (L.)  Ach.  Only  sterile  fragments.  Recorded 
by  Tuckerman  as  occurring  in  Labrador;  also  given  in  Eckfeldt's  enum- 
eration. 

23.  Placodium  elegans,  (Link.)  DC.  One  sterile  specimen.  Also 
recorded  by  Eckfeldt. 

24.  Lecanora  pallescens,  (L.)  Schaer.  Fruit  immature,  and  there- 
fore the  determination  is  somewhat  uncertain.     New  to  Labrador. 

25.  Pertusaria  dactylina,  (Ach.)  Nyl.  Recorded  by  Eckfeldt  and 
also  by  Arnold  as  having  been  found  at  L'anse  au  Mort  and  L'anse  au 
Loup. 

26.  Stereoeaulon  tomentosum,  Fr.  Mt.  Faunce,  3,500-4,000  ft. 
altitude;  also  various  specimens  with  no  definite  locality.  Evidently 
quite  common.     Recorded  also  by  Eckfeldt. 

27.  Stereoeaulon  denudatum,  Floerk.  Nachvak,  Mt.  Faunce, 
3,500-4,000  ft.  altitude.  Both  this  and  the  preceding  species  were  sterile. 
Given  in  Eckfeldt's  enumeration. 

28.  Sphserophoron  fragile,  (Crantz.)  Pers.  Several  specimens,  all 
sterile,  differing  considerably  in  appearance.  In  the  typical  form  the 
branches  of  the  thallus  are  spreading  and  open,  but  one  specimen  has  the 
lobes  of  the  thallus  very  much  abbreviated  and  closely  caespitose.  Re- 
corded in  Eckfeldt's  enumeration. 

29.  Sphserophoron  coralloides,  Pers.  On  Mt.  Faunce,  3,500-4,000 
ft.  altitude,  all  the  specimens  sterile;  also  at  Brig  Harbor,  July  26, 
1900;  and  other  specimens  with  no  definite  locality.  Given  in  Eckfeldt's 
enumeration;  also  in  Arnold's  list  as  found  at  Long  Island  and  at  L'anse 
au  Loup. 

30.  Cladonia  pyxidata,  (L.)Fr.,  var.  poeillum  (Ach.)  Flot.  No 
definite  locality  given.  Recorded  in  Arnold's  list  as  collected  by  Herz- 
berg at  Okak;  also  given  in  Eckfeldt's  enumeration. 

31.  Cladonia  gracilis,  (L.)  Willd.,  var.  choridalis  (Floerk.) 
Schaer.  Represented  by  six  specimens,  three  of  which  were  collected 
at  Nachvak.  The  specimens  vary  considerably  in  size,  those  from  Nach- 
vak being  rather  short  and  compact.  All  the  specimens  are  sterile.  Also 
recorded  in  Eckfeldt's  enumeration. 

32.  Cladonia  rangiferina,  (L.)  Web.  Emend.  Mixed  with  Cetraria 
nivalis,  C.  cuculatta,  C.  Islandica,  etc.     Everywhere;  specially  noted  at 


200  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

Aillik-Mokkovik,  Hebron- 1 terungnek,  Nachvak.     Recorded  in   Arnold's 
list  as  collected  by  Herzberg  at  Okak.     Given  in  Eckfeldt's  enumeration. 

33.  Cladonia  sylvatiea,  (L. )  Hoffm.,  a.  sylvestris,  Oed.  Nachvak. 
Given  in  Arnold's  list  as  CI.  sylvatiea.     Collected  by  Herzberg  at  Okak. 

34.  Cladonia  alpestris,  (L.)  Rabenh.  Everywhere;  specially  noted 
at  Aillik-Mokkovik,  Hebron-Iterungnek.  Recorded  by  Arnold  as 
collected  at  Blanc  Sablon.  Given  in  Eckfeldt's  enumeration  as  CI.  syl- 
vatiea var.  alpestris. 

35.  Cladonia  uneialis,  (L.)  Web.  No  definite  locality  recorded. 
Growing  with  Cetraria  nivalis.  Wainio  states  that  it  was  collected  in 
Labrador  by  Morrison. 

36.  Cladonia  coecifera,  (L.)  Willd.  At  Aillik-Mokkovik.  Speci- 
mens fertile  and  rather  reduced  in  size.  Given  in  Arnold's  list  as  col- 
lected by  Herzberg. 

37.  Cladonia  bellidiflora,  (Ach.)  Schaer.  At  Aillik-Mokkovik. 
Specimens  are  well-fruited.  Recorded  by  Tuckerman  as  occurring-  in 
Labrador.  Given  in  Arnold's  list  as  collected  by  Herzberg  at  Okak,  and 
as  appearing  in  Breutel's  Exs.  103,  collected  by  Henne;  also  as  collected  at 
West  S.  Modeste.  A  specimen  in  my  herbarium  was  collected  by  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Waghome  at  L'anse  au  Clair. 

38.  Cladonia  bellidiflora,  (Ach.)  Schaer..  e.  oehropallida,  Flot. 
With  the  preceding.     A  very  delicate  specimen. 

39.  Cladonia  deformis,  (L.)  Hoffm.  No  definite  locality  recorded. 
Given  in  Eckfeldt's  enumeration  without  locality.  All  the  specimens  are 
sterile. 

40.  Cladonia  reticulata,  (Russell)  Wainio.  Some  of  the  specimens 
are  very  large  and  much  inflated  and  these  are  less  reticulate  than  the 
smaller  specimens.  Listed  by  Dr.  Arnold  on  the  authority  of  Tucker- 
man, who  credits  the  specimen  to  Mr.  W.  A.  Steams. 

41.  Lecidea  alboeoerulescens,  (Wulf)  Schaer.,  var.  flavocoeru- 
lescens,  Schaer.  A  small  sterile  specimen  may  perhaps  be  referred  here. 
Eckfeldt  records  the  occurrence  of  this  variety  in  Labrador. 

42.  Lecidea  platycarpa,  Ach.     On  rock  with  the  following  species. 

43.  Buellia  geographica,  (L.)Tuck.  Pottle's  Cove.  On  rock. 
Listed  by  Dr.  Arnold  under  the  synomyn  Rhizocarpon  geographicum,  L. 

D.  FUNGI. 

Note. — The  fungi  were  collected  along  the  coast,  mainly  from  Mok- 
kovik,  Hopedale,  Nain  and  Nachvak.  The  remarks  in  quotation-marks 
below  are  from  Professor  Farlow's  notes  on  the  specimens.  The  only 
fungi  previously  reported  from  Labrador  in  the  lists  consulted  as  named 
above  are:  Lycoperdon,  Russula,  Agaricus,  and  seven  minute  species, 
all  given  in  Bell's  list. 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.         ,  201 

D  denotes  identification  from  description. 

S         "  "  "      preserved  specimen. 

X        "  "  by  E.  B.  D.  only. 

4S.  *Boletinus  deeipiens,  Pk.  ( Boletus  decipiens,  B.  &  C.)  "  This 
is  Boletus  decipiens,  I  think.  The  species  is  really  a  Bole- 
tinus  rather  than  a  Boletus.     It  is  not  very  well  known." 

3S.  *Boletus  scaber,  Fr.  ?    "  This  is  near  B.  scaber." 

iS,  2D.  *Boletus  variegatus,  Swartz.  E.  B.  D.:  Noted  at  Ford  Harbor 
and  common  all  the  way  between  Hebron  and  Nachvak. 

X.  Boletus  sp.  E.  B.  D.:  One  or  more  species  noted  at  Pottle's 
Cove  (two  specimens),  abundant  at  Ford  Harbor,  very 
abundant  at  Port  Man  vers,  at  Nachvak,  and  on  the  return 
at  Nain  and  Hopedale. 

6S.  *Collybia  lacerata,  Lasch. 

5S.  *Cortinarius  sp. 

7D.  *Cortinarius  sp.  "A  Cortinarius,  but  no  mortal  knows  the 
species  of  that  genus."  E.  B.  D.:  From  Port  Manvers, 
Iterungnek-Saglek. 

8D.  *Entoloma  olypeus,  vel  aff .  E.  B.  D. :  From  Port  Manvers, 
Iterungnek-Saglek. 

6D.  *Hypholoraa  sp.  "  The  fungus  is  apparently  a  Hypholoma, 
but  I  do  not  recognize  the  species."     From  Port  Manvers. 

7S.  *Inocybe  sp.  "  An  Inocybe  not  to  be  named  except  on  micro- 
scopical examination." 

2S.  *Lactarius  vellerius,  Fr. ;  "probably." 

8S.  Lactarius  sp.  "A  small  Lactarius,  perhaps  near  L.  vietus. 
It  needs  to  be  compared  with  other  species  as  to  microscopic 
chai-acter." 

9S.  *Lenzites  abietina,  Fr. 

X.  *Lyeoperdon  saecatum,  Vahl.,  probably.  Ford  Harbor, 
Iterungnek. 

X.  *Lycoperdon  sp.     Port  Manvers,  Iterungnek. 

X.  *Peziza  ?    In  hot-house  at  Ramah. 

loS.  *B.ussula  lepida,  Fr.  ?  "  This  appears  to  be  R.  lepida,  but  notes 
on  appearance  when  fresh  are  needed."  Seen  at  Mugford, 
Iterungnek,  Nachvak. 

loD&c.  Russulse.  "  The  Russvilse  cannot  be  named  without  more  notes 
and  specimens."  Seen  in  considerable  quantity  at  same 
places  as  the  last;  also  at  Port  Manvers,  Nain,  Hopedale. 


202  Report  of  the  Brozvn-Harvard  Expeditwn. 

IX. 

REPORT  ON  ORNITHOLOGY. 

By  Henry  B.  Bigelow. 

[Note. — Mr.  Bigelow  sent  his  list  to  the  editor  with  the  following  words 
of  explanation  :  "  I  am  enclosing  the  list  of  Labrador  birds,  for  which  you 
asked.  I  suppose  you  want  it  condensed,  and  have  made  it  in  fact  little 
more  than  a  list  of  names,  with  brief  notes  on  their  relative  abundance 
and  distribution.  I  have  given  no  introduction  at  all,  as  I  suppose  your 
paper  will  describe  the  nature  of  the  country  so  fully  as  to  make  one 
superfluous." 

This  list  was  prepared  earlier  than  that  published  by  Mr.  Bigelow 
in  Auk,  January,  1902.  The  latter  has  not  the  same  numbering  as  this, 
and  contains  a  few  additions  and  corrections.  Added  are  :  Botaurtis 
lentiginosus,  Tringa  alpina  paciflca,  Spinus  pinus,  Sylvania 
pusilla,  Sylvania  *  canadensis.  The  following  changes  are  made  : 
No.  28  to  Aythya  marila ;  30  to  Somateria  borealis ;  51  to  Lagopus 
albus ;  64  to  Passeroulus  sandwichensis  labradorius ;  75  to  Parus 
atricapillus ;  76  to  Tardus  alieise.  Numbers  28,  35  and  64  are  ap- 
parently without  previous  record  from  this  coast. — E.  B.  D.] 

1.  Urinator  imber.      "Loon."     Rather  uncommon.     We    met    them 

singly  or  in  pairs  in  the  bays  and  fiords  in  August  and  September. 
Not  found  nesting. 

2.  Urinator  lumme.     Red-throated  Loon.     "Wabby."     Reported  by 

the  settlers  as  common.     We  saw  only  a  few,  in  September. 

3.  Pratereula  aretica.     Puffin.     Common.     One  of  the  more  charac- 

teristic sea-fowl,  of  local  abundance.  Near  their  rookeries  they 
were  very  abundant  during  July.  In  August  they  were  more  gen- 
erally distributed.  We  saw  comparatively  few  north  of  Cape 
Harrigan. 

4.  Cepphus   grylle.     Black  Guillemot.      Pigeon.     Very   abundant  all 

along  the  coast.  The  most  numerous  of  all  the  water  fowl,  after 
the  kittiwakes.  Breeding  commonly  on  the  smaller  islets.  Much 
used  by  the  settlers  as  an  article  of  food. 

5.  Uria  troile.     Murre.     Common,  but  much  less  so   than  formerly, 

owing  to  "eggers."  Breeding  still  in  considerable  colonies.  Com- 
paratively scarce  north  of  Cape  Harrison,  though  reported  to  be 
abundant  along  the  northern  coast  later  in  the  fall. 

6.  Uria  lomvia.     Bfiinnich's  Murre.      Rather  less  common    than   the 

last.     We  saw  none  north  of  Hamilton  Inlet. 

7.  Alea  torda.     Razor-billed  Auk.      Common,   particularly   so   about 

Hamilton  Inlet,  and  just  north  of  Belle  Isle.  At  Port  Manvers  we 
saw  only  a  few.     In  July  we  usually  found  them  in  the  loose  fioe-ice. 

♦The  omission  of  capitals  in  proper  names  is  in  accordance  with  the  wishes  of  the  author. 


E.  B.  Delaharre,  Ph.  D.  203 

8.  Alle  alle.     Dovekie.     Reported  abundant  in  fall  and  winter.     I  saw 

only  one  specimen,  off  Cape  Harrison  on  Sept.  i8th. 

9.  Stercorarius    pomarinus.     Pomarine  Jsger.     Much  less  common 

than  the  two  following. 

10.  Stercorarius  parasiticus.     Parasitic  Jasger. 

11.  Stercorarius  longicaudus.    Long-tailed  Jasger.     Both  this  and  pre- 

ceding common,  of  about  equal  abundance.     Usually  with  flocks  of 
kittiwakes. 

12.  Rissa  tridactyla.     Kittiwake.       Most   abundant  sea-bird.     Found 

everywhere  in  great  numbers. 

13.  Larus  glaucus.     Ice  Gull,  Burgomaster,  Glaucous  Gull.     More  and 

more   common  the   further  north  we  went.     Abundant    at    Port 
Man  vers.     Not  seen  south  of  Cape  Harrison. 

14.  Larus    marinus.     Black-backed    Gull.     Abundant.      Breeds    com- 

monly, though  not  in  colonies. 

15.  Larus  argentatus  smithsonianus.     Herring  Gull.      Common  all 

along  the  coast. 

16.  Larus   delawarensis.     Ring-billed  Gull.      I  took   one   young  bird 

at  Port  Manvers  on  Sept.  6th.     No  others  seen. 

17.  Larus  Philadelphia.     Bonaparte's   Gull.      Rather  common   about 

Belle  Isle  late  in  September.     Not  seen  further  north. 

18.  Sterna  paradisaea.    Arctic  Tern.     A  few  seen  about  Belle  Isle  in 

July  and  again  late  in  September. 

19.  Pulmarus  glacialis.     Noddy.     Rather  common  off  shore  with  the 

shearwaters. 

20.  PufQ.nus  major.     Greater  Shearwater.     Common  off  shore  in  large 

flocks. 

21.  PufSnus  stricklandi.     Sooty  Shearwater.     Common  with  the  pre- 

ceding. 

22.  Oceanodroma   leucorhoa.      Leach's    Petrel.     Common,    breeding 

locally  in  considerable  numbers  south  of  Hamilton  Inlet.     We  saw 
none  further  north. 

23.  Sula  bassana.     Gannet.     A  few  seen  in  July  and  September  about 

Belle  Isle. 

24.  Phalaerocorax  carbo.     Cormorant.      A  few  seen  about  Belle  Isle. 

None  further  north. 

25.  Phalaerocorax  dilophus.     Double-crested  Cormorant.     A  few  seen 

about  Belle  Isle,  none  further  north. 

26.  Merganser  serrator.    Red-breasted  Merganser.  Common.  Breeding 

all  along  the  coast. 

27.  Anas  obscura.     Black  Duck.     Rather  uncommon  on  the  coast. 

28.  Aythya  marila  nearctica.     Greater  Scaup  Duck.     One  specimen 

from  Dr.  Grenfell,  shot  at  Nain,  October,  1899. 


204  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

29.  Qlaucionetta    clangula    americana.     American   Golden     Eye. 

Rare;  one  near  Paul's  Island,  August  nth. 

30.  Somateria  moUissima  borealis.      Greenland  Eider.     Abundant 

north  of  Hamilton  Inlet. 

31.  Somateria    dresseri.      American   Eider.      Common   on   the  more 

southern  coast. 

32.  Oidemia  americana.     Black  Scoter.     Common  in  the  fiords  in  Sep- 

tember. 

33.  Oidem.ia  deglandi.      White-winged   Scoter.       Common    along  the 

coast  and  in  the  fiords  in  September. 

34.  Oidemia  perspicillata.     Surf  Scoter.     Common  along  the  coast  and 

in  the  fiords  in  September. 

35.  Anser  albifrons  gambelli.    White-fronted  Goose.     One  specimen 

from  Dr.  Hettasch,  Hopedale,  May,  1900. 

36.  Branta  canadensis.      Canada  Goose.     Abundant  along  the  coast  in 

spring,  common  in  fall  from  September  20th. 

37.  Branta  berniela.     Brant.     Rare.  One  specimen  from   Dr.  Grenfell, 

Nain,  October,  1899. 

38.  Crymophilus    fulicarius.     Red   Phalarope.     Not    uncommon   ofiE 

shore, 
39.£^Ph.alaropus    lobatus.      Northern  Phalarope.     Common,   breeding 
t'j;  ^<>i  commonly  along  most  of  the  coast. 

40.  Gallinago  delieata.     Snipe.     Rare.     Two  or   three    at    Cape    St. 

Francis  Harbor  late  in  September. 

41.  Tringa  maculata.     Pectoral  Sandpiper.     Abundant  at  Manvers  and 

Hopedale  in  August  and  September. 

42.  Tringa  fusicoUis.    White-rumped  Sandpiper.     Abundant  along  the 

shore  in  August  and  September. 

43.  Tringa  rainutilla.     Least  Sandpiper.     Rather  common,   breeding 

locally, 

44.  EreunetGS  pusillus.     Semi-palmated  Sandpiper.     Common,  breed- 

ing locally.     Young  found  on  July  i8th,  at  Seal  Island. 

45.  Calidris  arenaria.     Sanderling.     Rather  scarce,     August  andj  Sep- 

tember. 

46.  Totanus  melanoleucus.     Greater!  Yellow-legs.     Rather  scarce,  in 

August  and  September.     Not  found  breeding. 

47.  Actitis  macularia.     Spotted  Sandpiper.     Very  numerous,  breeding 

almost  everywhere. 

48.  Numenius  borealis.     Eskimo  Curlew.     Barely  a  remnant  of  their 

former  numbers.     Nearly  exterminated.     A  few  were  seen  during 
September,  perhaps  eight  or  ten. 

49.  Charadrius  dominicus.     Golden  Plover.     Rather  Common,     Sev- 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  205 

eral  small  flocks  observed  on  and  after  August  20th.     Manvers  and 
J,.  .t,r-  •  southward  to  Belle  Isle. 

50.  ^gialitis  semipalmata.     Semipalmated  Plover.     Common,  breed- 

ing along  the  whole  coast. 

51.  Lagopus    lagopus.     Willow    Ptarmigan.      Rather    common    from 

Hamilton  Inlet  north  to  Manvers. 

52.  Lagopus  rupestris.     Rock  Ptarmigan.     Common  from  Cape  Har- 

rigan  northward.     Beyond  Okkak  the  rock  ptarmigan  probably- 
belonged  to  the  sub-species  "  reinhardti." 

53.  Archibuteo  lagopus  saneti-johannis.    Rovigh-legged  Hawk.  Very 

abundant  everywhere.    Breeding  commonly. 

54.  Falco  rusticolus  obsoletus.     Labrador  Gyrfalcon.    Scarce.    One  at 

Port  Manvers,  September  5th. 

55.  Falco  peregrinus  anatum.     Duck  Hawk.    Rather  common  at  Port 

Manvers  and  northward. 

56.  Asio  accipitrinus.     Short-cared  Owl.    Rather  common  on  the  coast 

in  September. 

57.  Otocoris  alpestris.     Horned  Lark.    Abundant  everywhere.    A  very 

characteristic  bird. 

58.  Perisoreus  canadensis  nigricapillus.     Labrador  Jay.     Common 

locally  as  far  as  Port  Manvers,  where  it  was  abundant. 

59.  Corvus  corax  principalis.     Raven.    Common  from  Hamilton  Inlet 

northward.     South  of  that,  scarce. 

60.  Pinicola  enucleator.     Pine  Grosbeak.    Common  wherever  we  foiind 

woodlands,  as  far  north  as  Mokkovik. 

61.  Acanthis  linaria.     Redpoll.     Everywhere  common. 

62.  Plectrophenax  nivalis.     Snow  Bimting.     Abundant  from  Augtist 

15th  on,  especially  at  Manvers. 

63.  Calcarius  lapponicus.    Lapland  Longspur.    Abimdant  after  August 

30th.    Very  numerous  at  Port  Manvers. 

64.  Ammodramus   sandwichensis  savannah.     Savannah   Sparrow. 

Locally  common.    Abundant  at   Manvers   from  August    24th    to 
September  5th. 

65.  Zonotriehia    leucophrys.     White-crowned    Sparrow.     The    most 

abundant  land  bird  everywhere. 

66.  Spizella  monticola.     Tree  Sparrow.     Rather  uncommon,   though 

not  rare. 

67.  Junco  hyemalis.    Junco.     Not  common.     A  few  near  Mokkovik 

early  in  August. 

68.  Melospiza  lincolni.     Lincoln's   Sparrow.      Common  in  the  more 

southern  region,  as  far  as  Hamilton  Inlet.     Breeds. 


2o6  Report  of  the  Broivn-Harvard  Expedition. 

69.  Fasserella  iliaca.     Fox  Sparrow.     Very  common  as  far  as  Mokko- 

vik.     Breeds  abundantly. 

70.  Dendroica    coronata.      Myrtle    Warbler.        Locally    common    to 

Mokkovik. 

71.  Dendroica  striata.     Black-poll  Warbler.    Abundant  as  far  as  Hope- 

dale.     A  very  characteristic  bird. 

72.  Seiurus  noveboraeensis.    Water  Thrush.     Not  uncommon  as  far 

as  Mokkovik. 

73.  Anthus   pensilvanicus.     Titlark.     Very  abundant  everywhere  in 

the  more  barren  regions  and  on  the  islands. 

74.  Regulus   satrapa.      Golden-crown    Kinglet.      Rather    common    in 

wooded  places.     North  to  Mokkovik. 

75.  Parus  hudsonicus.     Hudsonian   Chickadee.     Rare.     Two  or  three 

at  Manak. 

76.  Turdus   alicise  bicknelli.      Bicknell's   Thrush.     One    taken    near 

Battle  Harbor. 

77.  Turdus  ustulatus  swainsoni.    Olive-backed  Thrush.    Rather  com- 

mon wherever  there  were  trees,  as  far  as  Mokkovik. 

78.  Merula    migratoria.     Robin.     Rather    uncommon.      Common    at 

Manvers  September  6th  to  8th. 

79.  Saxicola   oenanthe.     Wheatear.     The  agent  at  Nachvak  had  nests 

of  this  bird,  which  he  had  taken. 


X. 

REPORT    ON    GEOLOGY. 
BY  REGINALD  A.   DALY,   PH.    D. 

The  "Paradise  of  Geologists"  is  undoubtedly  the  great 
arid  belt  of  the  United  States.  The  interpretation  of 
the  structure  and  history  of  the  earth's  crust  is  there  pos- 
sible with  a  degree  of  rapidity  and  an  amount  of  assured 
detail  which  are  scarcely  possible  in  any  other  region  of  the 
globe.  A  chief  cause  for  this  facility  of  study  is  to  be  found 
in  a  very  general  lack  of  forest  and  even  of  the  soil-cap, 
which  so  seriously  interfere  with  the  work  of  the  observer 
elsewhere.      This   same   condition   is   supplied   also   in   the 


I 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  207 

coastal  belt  of  northeastern  Labrador,  and  it  is  largely  owing 
to  the  relative  barrenness  of  this  region  that  we  were  able  to 
win  geological  results  worthy  of  record  even  under  such  un- 
promising circumstances  as  those  described  in  the  log  of  the 
"Brave."  To  be  sure,  the  numerous  delays  that  were  found 
necessary  during  the  cruise  formed  a  very  considerable  ad- 
vantage to  the  geologist  of  the  party,  unwelcome  as  they  gen- 
erally were  to  his  friends  on  board.  At  every  anchorage 
something  could  be  done  toward  sampling  the  problems 
which  this  coast  has  to  offer.  In  every  case,  with  no  forest 
to  obscure  the  view,  attention  could  be  quickly  called  to 
novelties,  whether  dike,  lava  flow,  intrusive  boss,  peculiar 
schist,  noteworthy  structure,  elevated  beach  or  sea-cave. 
For  this  reason,  the  questions  concerning  the  history  and 
composition  of  the  coastal  belt  grew  in  number  and  signifi- 
cance as  we  made  our  hasty  reconnaisance,  although  most 
of  them  would  be,  of  course,  more  or  less  distinctly  in  mind 
before  one  set  out  on  the  trip. 

Composed  as  it  is  for  the  most  part  of  the  crystalline 
complex,  presumably  Archaean,  which  shows  great  diversity 
of  structural  trends  where  it  has  been  studied  by  Low  in 
the  interior  of  Labrador,  and  by  many  others  in  its  southern 
and  southwestern  extensions  in  Canada,  it  was  not  to  be  ex- 
pected that  the  northeastern  coast-line  would  show  the  same 
average  parallelism  to  the  strike-direction  of  the  schists  as 
appears  in  the  relation  of  the  coast-line  from  the  Carolinas 
to  the  Straits  of  Belle  Isle.  I  was,  therefore,  not  a  Httle 
interested  to  find  that,  at  some  twenty-five  different  points 
from  the  Straits  to  Nachvak  Bay,  there  is  a  decided  coi- 
respondence  in  the  attitude  of  the  bedded  rocks.  Their 
edges  are  directed  approximately  northeast-southwest,  giv- 


2o8  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

ing  a  ''Labrador  trend"  which  meets  the  "Appalachian 
trend"  nearly  at  right  angles  in  the  vicinity  of  Belie  Isle. 
The  Archaean  plateau  would  seem,  then,  to  be  rather  defi- 
nitely rimmed  for  a  distance  of  seven  hundred  miles  on  this 
northeast  coast  by  the  axis  of  the  old  mountain  system.  It 
is  probable  that  the  average  direction  of  the  present  coast- 
line and  of  the  adjacent  continental  shelf  has  thus  been 
roughly  determined  by  a  principal  and  fundamental  line  of 
mountain-folding. 

So  ancient  is  this  orographic  system  that  most  of  its 
height  has  long  since  been  lost.  Only  in  the  belt  stretching 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the  Johannisberg  at 
Hebron  to  the  cliffs  of  Cape  Chidley  is  there  a  strong  re- 
minder in  the  existing  relief  of  the  Pre-Cambrian  alpine 
chain.  Orographically,  though  not  structurally,  this  belt  is 
a  distinct  unit  and  may  be  differentiated  as  the  "Torngat" 
Range.  The  need  of  a  special  name  for  the  range  is  evident 
to  one  who  sees  the  great  contrast  between  its  lofty,  rugged, 
oftentimes  serrate  topography,  and  that  of  the  lower, 
monotonously  rolling,  hummocky  plateau  to  the  south.  I 
have,  therefore,  adopted,  with  a  slight  modification  of  spell- 
ing (therein  following  the  early  missionaries,  Kohlmeister 
and  Kmoch),  the  name  which  Weiz  gave  to  a  part  of  the 
range. 

A  collection  of  the  more  typical  rocks  of  the  crystalline 
complex  was  made.  Not  the  least  interesting  addition  to 
this  petrographical  booty  was  the  gabbro  from  which  the 
famous  iridescent  feldspar  "labradorite"  was  first  obtained 
nearly  a  century  ago.  So  far  as  I  am  aware,  the  beautiful 
specimens  which  may  be  seen  in  all  the  principal  museums 
♦     of  the  world  have,  without  exception,  been  obtained  from 


£.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  209 

the  glacial  erratics  which  are  plentifully  strewn  along  the 
coast  in  the  vicinity  of  Nain.  The  opportunity  of  collecting 
from  the  rock  in  place  at  Mr.  Taber's  quarry  was  highly 
prized.  The  microscopical  and  chemical  diagnosis  of  this 
and  other  rocks  in  our  summer's  collection  is  not  yet  com- 
pleted. 

The  Kaumajet  mountain  group  not  only  affords  some 
wonderfully  beautiful  scenic  effects,  but  is  to  the  geologist 
instructive  as  well.  Ogua'lik,  Cape  Mugford,  the  Bishop's 
Mitre,  are  all  part  of  an  extensive  area  of  slates,  sandstones, 
conglomerates,  limestones,  and,  much  surpassing  these  in 
thickness,  lava  flows,  volcanic  tufts  and  breccias, — a  series 
of  well-bedded  rocks  which  rest  directly  on  the  truncated 
edges  of  the  gneisses  of  the  crystalline  complex.  This  "un- 
conformity" between  the  gently  dipping  younger  formation 
of  sombre  hue  and  the  light  gray  gneissic  basement  is  truly 
spectacular.  The  slightly  sinuous  line  of  contact  between 
the  two  formations  may  be  followed  for  miles  on  the  bold 
clifTs  in  and  about  Mugford  Tickle.  It  represents  an  ancient 
land-surface,  buried  now  under  twenty-five  hundred  feet  of 
marine  and  volcanic  strata  of  unknown  but  certainly  great 
age.  From  this  thick  rock-blanket,  atmospheric  and  glacial 
erosion  have  carved  the  picturesque  Kaumajets  as  we  see 
them  to-day,  while  the  same  agencies  have  fashioned  even 
more  fantastic  peaks  and  valleys  in  the  gneissic  basement 
at  the  Nanuktuks,  where  the  rock-cover  has  been  com- 
pletely swept  away. 

During  our  two-weeks'  stay  at  Nachvak  Bay,  I  was  able 
to  construct  a  sketch-contour  map  of  the  inlet,  and  by  a 
series  of  soundings  to  demonstrate  that  it  is  a  true  fiord  and 
one  of  the  best  types  in  eastern  America.     With  a  maximum 


210  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

depth  of  100  fathoms,  it  is  not  deep  as  fiords  go,  but  the  in- 
terruption of  its  bottom  seaward  slope  by  two  rock-sills 
within  the  "Narrows"  and  the  existence  of  a  similar  shoal 
outside  show  this  bay  to  be  of  the  same  nature  as  the  typical 
inlets  of  Norway,  Greenland,  or  Alaska.  The  best  inter- 
pretation of  such  an  arrangement  of  bottom  slopes  would 
attribute  them  and  the  broad  U-shaped  cross-section  of  the 
fiord  to  glacial  erosion.  A  corroboration  of  this  view  was 
found  in  a  number  of  "hanging  valleys"  which  are  drained 
into  the  bay.  It  is  now  the  fashion  to  regard  these  as  in- 
dicating a  power  of  excavation  possessed  by  valley  glaciers 
which  was  considered  as  highly  improbable  by  most  geol- 
ogists only  fiVe  years  ago.  One  of  these  side-valleys  is 
"hanging"  some  1,200  feet  above  the  bottom  of  its 
trunk  valley,  Nachvak  Bay,  and  at  the  junction  of  the  two 
occurs  the  finest  cascade  in  the  region. 

At  Nachvak  I  was  able  to  confirm  Dr.  Robert  Bell  in 
the  proof  that  the  glaciers  of  the  ice  epoch  were  only  local 
in  its  closing  stages,  and  that  an  overwhelming  general  gla- 
ciation  of  the  Torngats,  such  as  occurred  in  the  White, 
Green,  and  Adirondack  mountains,  did  not  take  place  in  the 
last  glacial  epoch.  The  ice  of  that  period  moved  seaward 
from  the  neve  of  the  interior  of  Labrador  through  the  trans- 
verse valleys  and  passes  of  this  range,  and  seldom,  if  ever, 
submerged  the  mountains  above  the  2,100  contour. 

The  glacial  striae  of  the  coast  are  scarcely  more 
numerous  than  the  "lunoid  furrows"  which  had  been  dis- 
covered there  by  Professor  Packard.  Their  characteristics 
led  me  to  a  somewhat  new  interpretation  of  these  markings, 
which,  however,  I  shall  not  detail  here.  They  agreed  with 
the   strine  in   showing-  that  the  ice-movements  of  the  last 


E.  B.  Delabarre,  Ph.  D.  211 

glacial  epoch  were  radially  outward  from  the  centre  of 
discharge,  viz. :  the  southwestern  portion  of  the  peninsula. 
Baron  De  Geer  has  shown  that  with  a  similar  dispersal  of  ice 
from  the  centre  of  the  Scandinavian  sheet,  there  may  be 
correlated  differential  elevation  of  northwestern  Europe  in 
post-glacial  times.  This  uplift  of  the  continent  has  been 
greatest  at  the  centre  of  radiation,  and,  in  general,  becomes 
progressively  less  with  increasing  distance  from  that  centre. 
If,  as  seems  natural,  we  may  assume  that  the  currents  within 
the  ice-cap  moved  from  the  centre  outwards  because  the  cap 
was  thicker  there  than  on  the  edges,  it  is  legitimate  to  follow 
De  Geer  in  forming  his  explanatory  hypothesis  of  the  cor- 
relation between  ice-radiation  and  post-glacial  elevation. 
Uplift  has  been  most  pronounced  where  the  earth's  crust 
has  lost  the  greatest  load  by  the  melting  of  the  ice-cap;  less 
and  less  pronounced  along  the  radii  leading  from  the  region 
of  greatest  thickness  of  ice.  The  earth's  crust  is,  then, 
elastic,  and  sensitive  to  a  load  relatively  so  insignificant  as 
a  regional  glacier. 

De  Geer  saw  that  it  would  help  his  case  if  he  could  find 
a  second  example.  He  discovered  that  North  America, 
while  in  the  main  telling  the  same  story,  could  not  furnish 
so  complete  a  homologue  on  account  of  the  lack  of  inform- 
ation regarding  the  maximum  amount  of  post-glacial  uplift 
in  Newfoundland  and  Labrador.  I  was  able  to  determine 
with  a  small  margin  of  error  the  position  of  the  highest  post- 
glacial shore-line  from  St.  John's  to  Nachvak  Bay,  a  distance 
of  1,100  miles.  The  result  is  to  supply  so  much  of  a  gap 
in  the  information  necessary  to  test  De  Geer's  theory;  and, 
in  the  main,  the  theory  is  strengthened  by  this  addition  to 
the  list  of  observations  on  crustal  movements.     Incidentally, 


212  Report  of  the  Brown-Harvard  Expedition. 

barometric  readings  gave  the  elevations  of  a  large  number 
of  raised  beaches,  sea-caves,  etc.,  all  exposed  on  the  bare 
slopes  with  marvelous  distinctness. 

Some  300  observations  of  surface  and  subsurface  tem- 
peratures of  the  coastal  waters  were  made,  and  in  many  cases 
the  densities  were  taken  as  well.  These  observations  have 
not,  as  yet,  been  subjected  to  the  necessary  corrections  nor 
has  their  significance  been  wholly  determined. 

A  detailed  account  of  my  summer's  results  on  the 
geology  and  physical  geography  of  Labrador  will  shortly 
appear  in  a  Bulletin  of  the  Museum  of  Comparative  Zoology, 
Harvard  University. 


UC  SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 


AA    001  297  141    2 


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